Introduced in 1953, the Rolex Submariner is recognized as the first purpose-built dive watch on the market, boasting water resistance up to 100 meters. In addition to this amazing feature, Submariner Rolex watches also come equipped with other extras that I particularly appreciate, including rotating 60-minute timing bezels, stainless steel cases, stainless steel three-link Oyster bracelets, black dials, and black bezels.
The earliest editions of Rolex Submariner watches featured 37 mm steel cases, no crown guards around the winding crowns, and radium-based luminescence. Eight references were manufactured during this initial phase of the series, ranging in water depth ratings, crown sizes, and dial styles. These early experimentation models only ensured that Rolex perfected a formula that combined elegance and precision. Are you ready to enter the world of Rolex Submariner? Here, we break down the full details of the iconic series.
Key features of the Rolex Submariner
Waterproof Oyster case
Rolex’s first Oyster case debuted in 1926, and it was the first waterproof wristwatch case, achieved through a patented system that sealed the winding crown, bezel, and case back directly against the case. The Submariner’s Oyster case came with several features, including a screw-down case back and a Triplock winding crown to protect against dust and debris, moisture, pressure, and shocks. This is just one of the prime features enabling Rolex watches to maintain their long-term value and even appreciation over time.
Today, Rolex Oyster cases come in an array of metals, including stainless steel, Rolesor (steel and yellow gold), 18k yellow gold, and 18k white gold. The Submariner’s case size initially was 37 mm, then later increased to 40 mm by 1959, where it remained the standard for 60 years. In 2020, Rolex introduced a 41 mm case for the Submariner series.
60-minute bezel
The Rolex Submariner watch bezel features 60-minute graduations and an arrow marker to help monitor underwater time. Early models also came with a bidirectional rotating bezel, but beginning in 1983, Rolex upgraded to a unidirectional bezel. The unidirectional bezel only moves forward, and if knocked underwater, it displays a longer time, ensuring divers don’t stay underwater too long and risk decompression.
Luminous markers on the Rolex Submariner
Reading time clearly is critical for dive watches, particularly in murky waters. And even for people who don’t dive, like myself, the feature comes in handy once the sun sets. The earliest Submariners used radium for luminescence, but were replaced in 1963 by tritium. Over the years, Rolex has used five types of luminescent materials: radium, luminova, tritium, super-luminova, and chromalight.
Oyster bracelet
The Rolex Submariner features a three-link Oyster bracelet, which has a sporty design and is a staple of Rolex’s Professional line. Paired with the Oysterlock safety clasp, accidental openings are avoidable. Starting in the 2010s, the Submariner upgraded to the Glidelock extension system, which gave the bracelets an extension in increments of 2 mm up to 20 mm, making it a comfortable fit while in a wetsuit.
Popular Rolex Submariner models
A wide range of Rolex Submariners are on the market to cater to every taste, with the brand using various materials, dials, and bezel colors. According to luxury watch expert Phil Reid, “Six to seven years ago, you could get a lot for under 5,000 pounds”, but these days, that is harder to find. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t options available if you are diligent. The following models are considered legendary, however, and are definite collector’s items if you can get your hands on one.
Iconic Rolex Submariner models
- Rolex Submariner, ref 6538: First worn by Sean Connery as James Bond in Dr. No, this model, popular for its 8 mm “Big Crown,” has become a collector’s item, reaching six-digit auction prices because of its limited production.
- Rolex Submariner, ref 5514: Produced for COMEX from 1970 to 1997, this model is extremely limited, with only 154 pieces made, and prices up to $200,000.
- Rolex Submariner, ref 16610: First produced from 1989 to 2010, it’s the most iconic steel and black Submariner and features an aluminum bezel. Later models feature Cerachrom bezels and a Super Case.
- Rolex Submariner, ref 14060: This model appeals to collectors for its symmetrical design, harking back to throwback Submariner models produced before 1969.
- Rolex Submariner green models:
- Kermit 16610LV (2003) introduced the green bezel.
- Hulk 116610LV (2010) added a matching green dial and a Cerachrom bezel.
- Starbucks 126610LV (2020) features a darker green and updated movement.
- Rolex Submariner Blue Dial, ref 116619: A luxe 18k white gold version with a unique lacquered blue dial and bezel, this Rolex earned the “Smurf” nickname because of its distinctive blue hue.
- Rolex Submariner Blue Dial: Available since 1984 as a two-tone model (steel and 18k yellow gold), the “Bluesy” features a blue dial and bezel, offering an elegant, more affordable option to solid gold versions. All models feature a Cerachrom bezel.
Buying a new vs. pre-owned Rolex Submariner
For collectors interested in owning either a new or pre-owned Rolex Submariner, it’s important to go through authorized dealers who can guarantee authenticity. Popular models, however, are often difficult to find, and patience is necessary due to long wait times.
Buying a vintage Rolex or from the secondary market is where I first made a serious foray into owning one and this route allows for quicker access since pre-owned watches are priced lower because of depreciation once they leave the dealer, even if never worn.
Enter the world of the Rolex Submariner
The Rolex Submariner masterfully blends craftsmanship, elegance, and premium functionality. From seasoned divers to enthusiastic collectors, the Submariner is unmatched in durability and class. Boasting a unique history, investing in a Submariner gives you access to a high-performance timepiece that appreciates in value over time. For men who want a prestige watch, the Rolex Submariner is a smart choice and a sound investment that will last a lifetime.
