It was an April morning at Palisades Tahoe ski resort, and the California sun glowed on the mountain. On the ride up the KT-22 Express chairlift, a.k.a. The Mothership, I took in the surroundings. Below, The Fingers, a giant rock outcropping, swelled up and out from the pitch. To my left and right, swaths of snow-covered terrain, with cliffs and rock formations scattered throughout, extended to the horizon. In the distance, Lake Tahoe peeked from beyond the ridgeline. As I slid down the exit ramp, I weaved to the right and surveyed the drop into GS Bowl, with a harrowing incline and moguls reminiscent of compact cars. It was 60 degrees, and I was wearing a T-shirt.
I was on a spring sojourn to Palisades Tahoe, a ski resort famous for terrain that combines hair-raising inclines, massive acreage, and cliffs galore. Over the years, countless ski and snowboard films, along with the athletes who appear in them, have used the mountain as a playground for world-class skiing and riding.
Though winter still held onto the surroundings, with snow covering the Sierra Nevada, spring sun and warm air add some sweetness to the experience. Beyond that, a festive mood surrounded the village, with classic rock playing, people walking their dogs, and bustling conversation everywhere.
During my adventure, I stayed in Reno, Nevada, giving me a taste of city life at the end of each day on the mountain. Here’s how my trip unfolded.
Some background on my return to Lake Tahoe
Decades ago, my family took a week-long trip to Lake Tahoe. I was a teenager, fresh into my snowboarding career, and couldn’t wait to ride at Palisades Tahoe (then called Squaw Valley). I dreamt of powder days among the Sierra Nevada, and simmered with excitement as we flew to Reno-Tahoe International Airport.
Upon landing, the mountains appeared dry and desert-like. On our first day at Palisades Tahoe, the mountain was barely open, with significant portions closed due to an ongoing drought. As the week progressed, it only got worse, as even more terrain was roped off, with only the Red Dog lift operating, cutting off the mountain’s best terrain, like KT-22, Siberia Bowl, and Granite Chief.
Still, the lake’s aura left me enchanted. At the end of each day, we’d circle the lake on the drive back, and I’d watch the sun set while listening to Chris Isaak’s “Wicked Game” on the radio. The region’s remote, mystical feeling branded my soul. I had to return.
But it took a while for that to happen. In the years since, I dreamt of riding at Palisades Tahoe again, but the opportunity kept eluding me. I watched films and read magazines, seeing the best mountain athletes ride the Palisades cliff band, or dropping off The Fingers on KT-22. Of course, there was also the lake and its timeless beauty.
For those reasons, this trip carried special significance. Each second, minute, and hour, I soaked up every detail, whether the sunrise over the Sierra or The Mothership spinning as the day began.
Palisades Tahoe: Big mountain playground with a sunny attitude
Palisades Tahoe has a big mountain pedigree that’s hard to match. Home to the 1960 Winter Olympics and host to countless ski and snowboard films — like those by Standard Films and Greg Stump — its locals include many of the world’s finest snowboarders and skiers. Examples include Jeremy Jones, a pioneering backcountry snowboarder, and Daron Rahlves, a world championship-winning skier. Terrain like KT-22, Granite Chief, The Palisades, and more offers steepness and challenge, along with an average 400-inch snowfall. Not only that, but the sun shines around 300 days per year. (Note: this article focuses only on the Olympic Valley side of the resort, not Alpine Meadows.)
The morning of my return, I walked into the village and could barely believe it was happening. On a stone wall housing the Funitel were Olympic rings, celebrating the 1960 Winter Olympics. Up ahead, the KT-22 Express Chairlift was spinning. The California sun blazed, and the sky was clear.
On the ride up KT-22, the mountain’s incline and acreage stood out. On the initial pitch, The Fingers — an outcropping made famous by pros leaping off in ski and snowboard films — were giant and jagged. Cresting the rise, I could see Eagle’s Nest, a near-vertical face where only the best dare drop in. To my left and right, open, snow-covered bowls stretched into the distance.
As I exited the lift, I turned right and slid past the ski patrol shack. Then I looked over the ledge. GS Bowl was my first glimpse of KT-22’s incline, and though I’m a lifelong snowboarder, I hesitated. Probably better to get warmed up first.
I warmed up on The Saddle, a mellower route off The Mothership, periodically glancing at drop-ins to various runs to the right. Towering rocks lined the left side. It’s one thing to view terrain in films or photographs. It’s another to be along the ridge, with steepness like a rollercoaster drop. I had a new appreciation for the skill required to ride KT. My Palisades Tahoe adventure had begun.
What it was like riding “The Mothership”
The housing of the KT-22 Express resembled a spaceship in a sci-fi movie, with angled sides and black windows. Many feel it’s the best lift in North America, with terrain that challenges even the best skiers and riders. Trails like Chute 75, The Nose, The Fingers, and Powder Horn seem straight down, with cliffs strewn throughout. A member of Palisades Tahoe’s Ski Patrol, Jim, described what makes the terrain so special, saying, “The terrain is so special because this place is like no other in the country. It has some of the steepest runs in North America. Probably one of the top 10 lifts is right here on KT-22, what we call ‘The Mothership,’ and you can never have a bad run off of it.”
What was it like to ride?
I’m a lifelong snowboarder and feel comfortable on almost any terrain. Even then, as I glanced down GS Bowl, which ran under the lift, I hesitated. At the drop-in, a ledge formed, and the initial pitch seemed almost straight down, with bulbous moguls covered in hardened early morning snow. It took a few lift rides of surveying and planning before I made the drop.
When dropping in, gravity was in control. Such was the inclination on KT-22 that I did everything I could to control the force by making quick turns and staying low to the mountain. I would quickly absorb each mogul, the drop into an abrupt turn, scrubbing momentum before speed took over. That didn’t let up. Each second down KT was an exercise in focus and stamina, and required constant turning and active movements to tame the mountain’s energy. Even then, it occasionally bit back with a mogul bigger than expected or scraped off snow.
But that was the fun of it. The continual challenge and feeling of accomplishment were a sweet reward at the end of a run. Knowing I was riding the same terrain as the best in the world added a dose of excitement, and run after run, I gained more poise as I threaded between cliffs and held my edge.
Palisades Tahoe: A snow-bound amusement park
Besides KT-22, a snow-covered playground unfolded in all directions. With an open bowl format and 3,600 skiable acres, I could take in the surrounding peaks like Granite Chief (9,006 ft), Broken Arrow (8,030 ft), and Emigrant (8,774 ft), picking and choosing where I went next. Though KT-22 was my favorite, I also found joy in some other spots.
The Siberia Express Chair unloaded on a ridge, with the resort’s namesake hike-to cliffs, the Palisades, to the left. Though I’d viewed numerous photos and videos of the Palisades cliffs and drops, like The Chimney and Extra, seeing them in person was a whole new experience. They loomed over the surroundings, with the near-vertical incline giving me pause. Off the chair, I’d turn left and drop into Siberia Bowl, where an open canvas of spring snow awaited.
The Headwall Express was another favorite chairlift, which accessed even more demanding terrain, and I could choose from narrow drops between cliffs or navigate an incline that my board could barely grip. My favorite was CII Ridge, where I’d enter on Headwall Face and then squeeze between rock formations on The Slot.
The Granite Chief Chair offered some old-school charm along with a break from the crowds. The chair featured an older design, with a slow ride up, and on the way, I’d take in the towering trees alongside. I preferred dropping into High Voltage, which had the resort’s usual demanding slope, and making medium to wide turns through the softening afternoon snow.
Next to Granite Chief, below the Shirley Lake Express lift, a “Wiggle” had formed in the snow, a banked series of esses where skiers and riders playfully danced down the hill, throwing sprays over the sides. It captured the springtime feelings at the resort.
The spring snow changed throughout the day
When the lifts opened at 9:00, the temperatures were around freezing, and I wore my usual snowboard jacket with insulating Polartec fleece. The snow was hard and crunchy, especially on KT-22, and my board struggled for grip. But that changed from minute to minute. As midday approached, the snow softened, taking on its famous “corn” consistency, and felt like sand swishing underneath my board. Making turns felt like surfing, with the spring snow’s weight offering an almost liquid-like sensation underfoot. By afternoon, it began feeling like mashed potatoes, which provided ample grip and opportunities for making sprays.
The strong sun required dark lenses and sunscreen
To endure Tahoe’s spring sun, I used my darkest goggle lenses, Oakley Prizm Black, and applied ample sunscreen. Prizm Black lenses transmit 5.5% of light, and even then, they were just enough to block out the glare. Such is the strength of the sunlight in Lake Tahoe’s high alpine. Sunscreen was mandatory, as the summer-like light pelted down throughout the day. One other note: the sun wore me down, with a full day on the mountain feeling more like two at a smaller resort.
Shedding layers was mandatory
As noted, the days started near freezing, then warmed up to the 50s and 60s. I’d start with my snowboard jacket, then shed that and wear my fleece top, before taking that off and wearing a T-shirt. Riding in a T-shirt added an element of fun and freedom, with less weight and greater mobility. Though it was springtime, in a way, it was also a mix of winter and summer. It was also refreshing to feel the wind against my body.
Where I stayed in Reno Tahoe
After flying into Reno-Tahoe International Airport, I stayed at the Hyatt Place South Reno. The hotel, which opened in October of 2024, had a contemporary silhouette set against the Sierra Nevada Mountains, with Mount Rose Ski Resort in the background. Walking in, I was greeted by modern surroundings with elegant lighting fixtures, earthy tones, and wooden accents.
The room was like an apartment, the kitchen featuring stainless steel appliances, a granite-topped island, and wood laminate floors. A sectional sofa bordered the living area, with a big-screen TV on the wall. The bedroom continued the theme, with a king-sized bed, a wall-mounted TV, and soft lighting. A large bathroom featured a detachable shower head, mood lighting, and plenty of towels. The tap and shower water felt wonderful, with a smooth, silky quality.
The breakfast buffet at Hyatt Place South Reno was a highlight. Each morning, a row of platters featured items like berry compote, scrambled eggs, breakfast potatoes, and more. Each had the quality of chef-prepared fare, and Starbucks coffee was the perfect complement. My favorite was topping some yogurt with the berry compote, which had a candy-like sweetness and satisfying tang.
The hotel’s location also offered a few benefits. It’s positioned next to a small shopping center, where a Trader Joe’s let me stock up on cold brew coffee and snacks after a day at Palisades. The hotel also sits on the Nevada 431 highway, letting me jump on Highway 28 West for a morning drive along Lake Tahoe’s border as I traveled to the resort. The drive featured many twists and turns, with towering pines lining the sides of the roads. Each morning, on the drive to the mountain, I’d watch the sun rise over the lake and periodically stop to take photos. One morning, I stopped above Crystal Bay, Nevada, and wrote haikus as the moon shimmered off the lake, and the sun rose over the mountains.
Driving along Route 28 also offered a glimpse of North Lake Tahoe’s small towns, like Tahoe City, with its mix of old and new small businesses, and the rustic, sun-filled character they possess. At Kings Beach State Recreation Area, I’d walk along the beach, then to the end of a dock, to photograph the crystal clear water and the reflections off the lake.
Hyatt’s Krysslyn Garcia said: “We are geared toward leisure travelers; also business travelers. Our location is in a very prime location within Reno-Tahoe. We are close to Tahoe, Virginia City, Reno, Incline, to Carson City.”
She described the hotel’s interior design, saying: “Our ownership group has a very big footprint with Reno-Tahoe. So they really wanted to emphasize that a lot. So there was an old Levi’s factory out in Virginia City, and the person that actually made the Levi’s rivets was from Reno-Tahoe. So we’ve got tons of denim art pieces. We even have a copy of the patent on one of our Levi’s walls.”
Regarding the breakfast buffet, she shared, “We have an amazing chef. He has been with us since our opening day. He’s really the heart of breakfast. He knows what to make, how much to make based on our occupancies.”
Where I ate in Reno Tahoe
After researching Reno-Tahoe restaurants, I selected places that used local ingredients, had a unique character, and interesting recipes. Reno’s Homegrown Gastropub provided a cozy, mining-town pub ambience, with recipes that featured detail and flavor. COMO let me take in the open air of downtown Truckee, while serving artistic creations that helped me refuel.
The Homegrown Gastropub in Reno, Nevada
The Homegrown Gastropub sat on a Reno city block, inside a sand-colored brick building. Outside, wooden fences surrounded the tables, and the sign read, “Food and drinks made with the finest local ingredients.” Upon stepping inside, dark wooden paneling and low light greeted me, and bright conversation bustled at the tables. Old photos, paintings, and mirrors adorned the walls as I took a seat at the bar. Atop the bar, three candles were surrounded by what appeared to be years of drippings, forming a waxy waterfall.
I started with a fresh-squeezed lemonade, which had a sweet zing, and let me kick back after a long day on the mountain. Next was an organic salad, with seasonal vegetables over a spring mix, which oozed freshness and had a crispy crunch.
The appetizer was a skillet of brick oven Brussels sprouts with a balsamic glaze, and it had a deep, roasted flavor with a hint of sweetness. Then came the chicken tacos, made with grilled corn tortillas filled with braised chicken, mango salsa, chipotle crema, and topped with microgreens and shaved Parmesan. An ample side of fries sat alongside. The tacos offered hearty satisfaction, with the chicken perfectly shredded, and the crema added a sweet finish.
What struck me about the food was its detailed preparation, in which each ingredient, whether the greens or the chicken, was neatly cut and apportioned, with the final dish like a work of art. I also liked knowing I was refueling with local, organic ingredients, which helped me recover before another day at Palisades Tahoe.
I asked Johnny B., a staff member at the gastropub, about the restaurant’s guiding principles. He said, “To sum up the Homegrown Gastropub in a couple of words would be local, fresh, and organic. We try to get as much stuff locally sourced and organic. But fresh is kind of the main thing. And you know, just keeping a local atmosphere, making everybody feel welcome. It’s keeping it like an old neighborhood bar/restaurant is the main thing. “
COMO in Truckee, CA
My next dinner took place at COMO in downtown Truckee, a rustic mining town with an Old West feel. The main drag, Donner Pass Road, contained charming businesses, like a renovated classic gas station that housed a real estate company, a bookstore, and a homemade candy shop. In the distance, the snow-covered Sierra Nevada lined the horizon. Despite the town’s popularity as a destination for skiers, snowboarders, and outdoor enthusiasts, it still retained the feel of an uncrowded refuge high in the mountains.
COMO is a Mexican restaurant focusing on fine ingredients and made-from-scratch salsas, tortillas, and more. I opted for outdoor seating, where I could relax in the mild air and take in the main drag. To start, I chose the COMO Salad, which featured mixed greens, toasted pepitas, tomatoes, radishes, and lime vinaigrette. The topping was an artfully shaved carrot that resembled a flower. Taking a bite was like sampling ingredients straight from the garden. Each piece was firm and moist, and I especially enjoyed the radishes.
I followed that with a carnitas burrito, which was filled with braised pork, cilantro, rice, beans, salsa roja, jack cheese, poblano sour cream, and cotija cheese. It provided the filling subsistence I needed after a day of snowboarding. A red sauce on the side added some zing to the combination of Mexican flavors.
Asher, one of the managers at COMO told me, “So COMO’s been around for about six and a half years. We’ve been the namesake spot for Tex-Mex-themed restaurant food. So I’d say what we’re really trying to do is deliver some really good Mexican food and drinks, while staying all-natural and additive-free, and just making everything in-house.”
Spring in Reno-Tahoe: Pura Vida in the mountains
Pura Vida is a Costa Rican term that means “pure life,” denoting a laid-back existence filled with positivity and fun. Spring in Reno-Tahoe evoked those qualities, like the exhilaration of snowboarding in a T-shirt, watching the sun rise over Lake Tahoe, savoring fine foods, and taking in the upbeat mood. The Village at Palisades Tahoe bustled with people feeling the sunny spirit, walking their dogs, or sharing experiences after a day on the hill.
After completing two days of snowboarding at Palisades Tahoe, where I soaked in the sun and rode some of North America’s best terrain, I sat and ate at COMO Truckee. As reggae played in the courtyard, I savored the food and watched the town’s happenings, with people walking around and cars driving by. A gentle breeze wafted through. It was then that I thought to myself, “This is the life.”
If you are a passionate skier or snowboarder and love the mountains and sun, a spring trip to Reno-Tahoe should be on your list. From Palisades Tahoe’s terrain to the lake’s beauty, to the free-feeling mood, it was an adventure that provided equal parts exhilaration and relaxation. Don’t forget your dark lenses, sunscreen, and a T-shirt.
