Like a lot of great beers, the Extra Special Bitter owes its heritage to Europe. Also called ESB, this balanced beer is essentially a hoppier version of a pale ale, born in England. It’s a great option for the spring and summer, as it offers a bit more weight than lighter beer styles while appealing to hop heads and those looking for something refreshing, too.
There’s a big time appeal to the Extra Special Bitter as it seemingly has something for everybody. Built into this crisp beer are floral yeast notes, bitterness, earthiness, and some herbal characteristics. There’s a signature evenness to the beer, too, the hoppy elements countered nicely by the malts.
This is a beer that’s easy to stare at in the glass, known for its copper or mahogany color. It’s not too heavy to scare off fans of quaffable beers and not too light to not appeal to those who like a beer with some character. The ESB really does find a lot of happy mediums. Across the board, the style is known for its supreme drinkability. Here’s a bit more about the Extra Special Bitter.
History of the Extra Special Bitter
The ESB is actually quite young, at least relative to beer history in general. First concocted in 1969, the original batch was dubbed a winter beer. British label Fuller’s brewed one a couple of years later and never looked back. The beer is an adaptation of version 2.0 of the English pale ale. They tend to pour a pretty copper hue and come in around 5.5% ABV, give or take.
There’s a more significant malt bill to the beer compared to traditional pale ales and that affords flavors like biscuit, cracker, and toffee. The finish is long and there are some nice green notes thanks to the hop profile. Fuller’s went on to win many awards with its ESB and different brewers all over the world have made versions, adjusting things like the hop varieties and malt bills here and there.
Consider it a more muscular version of the English bitter, a beer that goes way back to the 1600s. This was the blue collar beer enjoyed by those in industrial jobs back in the day. The ESB takes it a step further, with a slightly higher ABV, a bigger mouthfeel, and a noticeable kick of hops.
Extra Special Bitters are great enjoyed alone but pair up well with certain foods, too. Try one with fish and chips in true U.K. style or with lighter cheese or even roasted vegetables. One of this writer’s favorite pairings is a good ESB poured alongside a bowl of French onion soup.
A few to try
There are a lot of ESB out there, especially if you happen to be across the pond. Fuller’s is perhaps the most famous option and is widely available in the States. Writer Jeff Alworth describes the beer beautifully in his book The Beer Bible, a must-read for all who love beer.
“For those who think of English beer as weak and malty, Fuller’s ESB will be a shock,” he wrote. “In terms of intensity, it’s comparable to an American IPA, crackling with potency and hop zest. Yet it’s illustrative of the difference between the American and British traditions: ESB has a wonderfully smooth, nutty malt base; the zesty elements hops have elements of pepper and marmalade on the palate; the whole beer is tied together by a structured minerality.”
There are domestic options to look out for, like ones from Blue Point Brewing Company in Long Island, New York and AleSmith Brewing Company in San Diego, California. Left Hand Brewing Company in Longmont, Colorado, makes a fine one, and so, too, does Shipyard Brewing Company in Portland, Maine. Ferment Brewing in Hood River, Oregon, usually has one as well, available in late summer and early fall. Ask your local brewery or brewpub if they have one, as sometimes it’s not a big enough batch to go to bottle or can. And if they don’t have an ESB, they likely have something very similar to the style.
With lower ABV beers trending and hops remaining popular, the trends bode well for the ESB. I anticipate it only gaining more steam in the years to come. Look out for more producers trying their hands at the Extra Special Bitter, also sometimes labeled a “strong bitter.”
And don’t let the title fool you. There’s definitely something extra to the ESB, but there’s an underlying balance throughout. That’s what makes this beer so wildly approachable and one I enjoy approaching. One look at that copper pour, and you can tell it’s going to have a little more going on than your standard grade pale ale. The key word might be “special,” and the ESB is certainly that.
Do you like beer? I sure do. Check out these features on the state of the craft beer movement, the differences between porter and stout, and craft beer terminology to keep you in the know.
