As Watches & Wonders Geneva grows to a record-breaking 60 exhibiting brands for its 2025 edition, the expanding number of independent watchmakers shows a clear change in the luxury watch scene. The large companies will attract viewers with their impressive booths and strong promotions, while independent brands offer simple creativity and real technical ideas that push beyond what bigger companies manage.
In April, the event will present a strong list of independent watchmakers, with new names joining the event. For collectors and fans who want watchmaking that feels different from the usual style, these brands give one of the most interesting chances to find something different at Watches & Wonders 2025.
The newcomers
Christiaan van der Klaauw
Participating at Watches & Wonders for the first time, this Dutch maker of star-based complications shows a different viewpoint at the event. Founded in 1974 and located in Friesland, Netherlands, Christiaan van der Klaauw earned its reputation with space-themed clocks that intertwine with sky research and mechanical creation.
This maker builds some of the leading astronomical wristwatches, such as the CVDK Planetarium — the tiniest clock-controlled planetarium worldwide. Its clocks usually show features such as moon status and star maps as well as zodiac guides, all designed with clear Dutch style.
For its first appearance at Watches & Wonders, visitors may see improvements in its star systems plus possible new versions of the Real Moon Joure or Planetarium series. Christiaan van der Klaauw stands out by winning a clear role in high-end watches despite its base being outside traditional Swiss clock centers.
Genus
Geneva-based Genus has made strong progress in the independent watchmaking field since Sébastien Billières started it in 2019. The brand receives praise for its unusual time displays, especially the GNS1.2, which uses a moving hour indicator system with an element that shows hours while it moves around the dial.
The brand name comes from the scientific naming system and shows its goal to create a new type of time display. It solves the problem of reading time by dropping standard hands for fresh orbital systems that produce a striking visual effect.
For Watches & Wonders 2025, Genus will likely show new forms of its main time display system, using different materials or features that improve its unique style. Genus’s participation counts as a key approval of forward-thinking independents by the watch industry’s top show.
Kross Studio
One of the newest brands at Watches & Wonders, Kross Studio started in 2020 in Gland, Switzerland. It earned its name through clever ties to other creators, plus pop-culture-driven special editions. Its method joins fine watchmaking with modern cultural ideas — a mix that draws young buyers to the luxury watch market.
Kross Studio made watches based on Star Wars, Batman, as well as Space Jam. It shows skill in turning known stories into refined luxury items. In addition the brand built its own style focused on a main tourbillon element.
At Watches & Wonders 2025, Kross Studio will show fresh designs and may reveal new well-known ties, proving that independent brands can question what people call “serious” watchmaking while keeping their identity.
MeisterSinger
The German company MeisterSinger built its image on a unique single-hand idea. It offers a thoughtful way of reading time. Manfred Brassler started it in 2001 in Münster. Its view of time puts emphasis on a relaxed, rough display — the watches typically show time to the closest 5 minutes.
This intentional discrepancy in marking time opposes the focus on precise time measurement that fills much of the watch market. MeisterSinger’s work shows a plain and simple style based on scientific tools beside early tower clocks with one hand.
Its Watches & Wonders show will likely include fresh versions of the one-hand idea plus possible growth in its music watch line. That collection holds watches with sound chambers that boost the movement’s acoustics.
Returning independents
Armin Strom
Returning to Watches & Wonders after a previous absence, Armin Strom proves itself as a clear technical innovator in the independent field. The Biel/Bienne-based maker is known for its use of resonance technology — when two moving parts nearby affect each other until they match their pace.
Under leaders Claude Greisler and Serge Michel, Armin Strom gave new life to the old idea of resonance with its Mirrored Force Resonance system, which joins two balance wheels by a resonance clutch spring. This technical step has become the maker’s mark, setting it apart in a busy group of independent watchmakers.
Besides resonance, the brand makes modern skeleton designs that show the movement structure, mainly seen from the dial side. The open style in watchmaking makes the technical details of its watches clear.
For Watches & Wonders 2025, watch fans will see more changes to the resonance technology, perhaps with new uses of the system in different watch types.
HYT
Few independent brands have pursued technical change as strongly as HYT. The company is known for its hydro-mechanical watchmakers who used fluids to show time for the first time. The company began in 2012 and caused excitement with its first H1 model. It used colored liquid that flowed through tiny tubes to mark hours.
After money problems plus a change in structure in 2021, HYT has come back with clear focus under CEO Davide Cerrato. Its Moon Runner collection shows the brand’s present design style. It uses fluid technology with a simpler visual style.
The method of showing time remains HYT’s main idea. A bellows system moved by a mechanical device sends colored liquid through a small tube that surrounds the dial. This mix of traditional watchmaking with fluid motion gives a striking effect that’s unlike any other watch.
HYT’s return to Watches & Wonders marks the brand’s new stability and continued role in independent watchmaking, with hope for fresh versions of its liquid display method.
Other notable independents
Moser & Cie.
This brand is known for its smoked dials and simple design. H. Moser & Cie. mixes age-old skills with a clearly modern style. The brand earns respect for its technical advances and also its marketing, which sometimes contains bold comments about the watch industry. Its recent work with MB&F proves a shared effort among independent makers.
MB&F
Max Büsser’s “Mechanical Art Devices” challenges the usual idea of a wristwatch. With three-dimensional “Machines” and work with other independent creators, MB&F stands for a new wave in watchmaking. Its displays at Watches & Wonders draw much interest because it turns to stage-like, surprising design.
Ferdinand Berthoud
Revived by Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Ferdinand Berthoud makes refined modern takes on old marine timepieces. Its fusee and chain force systems show the best of old special features done with current care.
Laurent Ferrier
Ex-Patek Philippe technical director Laurent Ferrier makes watches with true elegance and technical skill. His brand holds classic watchmaking values with soft modern changes. which are seen in the design of the movement and the finishing work.
Ressence
Benoît Mintiens creates a new way to show time with revolving discs. The Ressence Type series drops ordinary pointers and uses rotating displays where the whole dial works as a lively time-telling tool.
The independent advantage
What makes these independent brands special at an event like Watches & Wonders is that they show a clear, unfiltered idea. Free from the limits of big company rules or shareholder demands, independent watchmakers choose creative and technical paths that larger companies might see as too risky.
Many collectors enjoy the personal connections that come with independent brands. The actual makers of the watches often attend the event and explain their work. This chance to meet the creative minds behind the timepieces gives a better understanding and deeper appreciation, which improves the collecting experience.
Most independent watchmakers produce only a few items, which provides a kind of uniqueness that appeals to collectors who want items that are rarely seen.
Navigating independent brands at Watches & Wonders
For visitors to Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025, smaller brands offer valuable finds that some may miss among larger displays. These are some tips for a better experience.
- Look up information beforehand: Many independent brands may reveal new pieces prior to the event. Follow these brands on social media or in watch media to spot the key items.
- Reserve set time: Plan specific hours to examine the independent section instead of trying to cover everything at once.
- Arrange meetings: Serious collectors may schedule meetings with independent brands to enjoy a deeper look and possibly view items not shown to the public.
- Ask direct questions: Independent brand reps take pride in their work and welcome technical questions; this gives you a chance to learn directly from watchmaking experts.
As the watch industry changes, independent brands do not simply replace mainstream luxury watches but often lead new ideas in watchmaking. Their increasing role at Watches & Wonders 2025 shows the event’s broad appeal while marking the rising significance of these creative teams in the
