Agave spirits may have the most momentum of any drink category. And while we jump to tequila when we think of things fermented from this formidable desert plant, there’s a lot more out there. With south-of-the-border culture booming, from Michelin-starred taco trucks to Mexican-style lagers, there’s never been a better time to understand the realm.
There are many more beyond what’s listed here but consider this your brief but comprehensive guide to agave spirits. More and more continue to make their way into the U.S., meaning if you haven’t heard of, say, Pechuga, you likely will soon. Best, all of these different takes on agave offer different flavors and regional production tweaks, showing just how mind-blowing and varied these Mexican spirits can be.
Here are the seven agave spirits to know.
Bacanora
Native to the Sonoran Desert, Bacanora is made from one of two different agave species (Pacifica or Yaquiana). A bit milder than mezcal, the drink appeals to tequila lovers who like some of those earthy, herbaceous undertones. Because the agave grows in the dramatic climate of Sonora, the plants have to work a bit harder to stay nourished and deliver a good heart, which is roasted the ancestral way, broken down, fermented without any additives, then distilled. This kind of climatic stress, many argue, is not unlike that which impacts some of the best grape vines in the world, which in turn produce some of the most interesting wines.
Mezcal
What is mezcal? It’s pretty much the preface to all of these great agave spirits. It can be made from any number of agave’s 200-something species and dates back to the 1500s. Most is made in Oaxaca and while smokiness has long been tied to the drink, the variation is extreme. Depending on the process and region, mezcal can be anything from light and fruity to heavy and smoky like a good peaty Scotch. Due to its popularity, some larger brands have modernized production methods. This writer finds the smaller, more ancestral producers to be the most interesting (and more widely available here thanks to intrepid distributors and enthusiasts).
Pechuga
Buckle up as this one is beautifully wild. Pechuga hails from the Oaxaca and is a sibling of mezcal. The name, which means “breast,” refers to the chicken that’s added during the age-old fermentation process. The poultry is essentially draped over and prepared over the cooking agave, with the tasty liquid falling into the batch. It’s crafted a bit more seasonally and offers a nice savory or vegetal component to round out the fruit and earth of drink. Pechuga tends to be a special occasion drink in its homeland.
Pulque
Made from agave sap, pulque is a milky distant relative of mezcal. An ancient liquid, pulque was and continues to be sacred by large sums. The drink is widely considered to be more blue collar and is not as popular as it used to be, although the general interest in agave spirits has given pulque a boost. Made from about a half-dozen different agave species, the drink is alive and still fermenting when bottled, meaning it has a short shelf life.
Raicilla
Calling Jalisco home, raicilla is made from a number of agave species and sources the hearts. Many referred to the stuff as Mexican moonshine before giving the drink its due credit. The aromatics are impressive and the flavors tend to be more delicate and floral than mezcal or tequila. What’s more, raicilla shows serious terroir depending on whether the agave was grown near the coast or inland. Like tequila, there are younger and aged versions of the beverage.
Sotol
Perhaps the most sustainable agave spirit, sotol is made from the spiny desert plant otherwise known as Dasylirion. While not technically made from agave, the production and resulting liquid is similar enough we think it’s a valid entry here (the plant looks a lot like agave). Producers tend to harvest more sustainably and the plant can regenerate relatively quickly. The indigenous shrub offers flavors more like a softer tequila, often with grassy notes and some funk on the nose. This spirit may show the most diversity depending on where it’s made (so create a tasting at home, people).
Tequila
The king of agave spirits is made from only Blue Weber agave. Producers have long liked the high fructose content of this species, which lends to easer alcohol production. How the agave is fermented and distilled varies quite a bit. The main thing here as that because the production is so massive and allows for additives and coloring and the like, look for securities on the label that suggest its made the old fashioned way, from 100% blue agave. As always, look for smaller producers to find a good sipping tequila (way different from that one you had out of a shot glass in college). There are tequila aging terms worth knowing, as the drink can range in color and flavor much like a whiskey depending on how long its rested in the barrel.
