As we substitute pants for swim trunks and IPAs for crisp refreshing lagers, it can only mean one thing: Summer is here. That transition extends to the table as well, where we opt for lighter foods like salads to greet the mild weather and take advantage of all the fresh produce available. But how do we make the very best of this kind of cuisine?
The right wine pairing, naturally. You might think any old pink or white wine will do but there’s an art to the best couplings. Certain salad styles demand certain wine styles, and vice versa.
Barolo Grill wine director Erin Lindstone loves a summer salad. “When pairing with salads, matching the acidity of the ingredients or dressings is the name of the game,” she says.
Working at a great Italian restaurant within the esteemed Denver food scene, obviously Lindstone’s mind drifts towards the Mediterranean (in fact, she and the Barolo Grill staff are in Italy as we speak, on their annual pilgrimage to the Old World to sponge up some of that culinary culture and bring it back stateside). “The first that comes to mind is of course caprese,” she says.
“I love an Italian Rosato of either Sangiovese or Nebbiolo that has enough acidity to match the natural acidity of the tomato in the salad, as well as cut through the richness of the mozzarella or burrata, and complement the herbaceousness of the basil. My current favorites are Riecine’s Rosato of Sangiovese from Chianti Classico, and Ioppa’s Rosato of Nebbiolo from the Ghemme region in Alto Piemonte.”
But don’t stop there, as there are a plethora of Italian varietals to match a number of salad styles. “Another wine that I absolutely love for salad season is Vermentino,” Lindstone says. “It has a natural salinity that is so tasty with salty briny elements, and particularly a seafood salad.”
She says she loves an octopus and potato salad with olives, a dish her team devoured while visiting the Vermentino-loving Ligurian coast. “A personal favorite Vermentino I love is actually one that is grown in Piemonte, where they call it ‘favorita.’ Gianni Gagliardo was a heroic producer who saw the potential in this grape when it was losing favor fifty years ago, and started producing his ‘Fallegro,’ which is a combination of the words ‘favorita’ and ‘allegro,’ which encapsulates the friendly nature of the wine (‘fallegro’ means to be ‘happy, light, and free’) and its dangerous drinkability,” she says.
Other popular salad types
We’ve rounded up a few other popular salad styles that can be enhanced with the right wine, Italian or otherwise. This will set you up for a restaurant-level dining experience at home, even if you’re eating something as simple as Caesar salad. Granted, these salads can be customized in countless ways so consider this a very general pairing guide that will at least steer you in a solid direction for an enhanced experience.
Caesar
With a Caesar, it’s all about playing off those fishy anchovy paste notes and the brightness of that fresh lemon you should be squeezing over the top. A Pinot Grigio will do, but try something a little more interesting like Gavi or, if you can track one down, a bone dry Semidano from Sardinia.
Chicken
Undoubtedly a summer classic, chicken salad comes in many forms but we think it’s best with grilled poultry. Play off those meaty notes with an Italian Chardonnay or Arneis, which can have a nice nuttiness that works really well with this particular salad.
Nicoise
This salad from Nice is basically an assembly of ingredients on a platter. We love them with volcanic wines like Roses from Mt. Etna or even a chilled red like Valpolicella which mingles well with the beans, olives, and tuna.
Waldorf
Born in NYC, the Waldorf is a salad built around apple and walnuts and a creamy dressing. Given that there’s some richness here, a sparkling wine is a great option. Try a Franciacorta from Lombardy and give it a sly chill prior to cracking the bottle. Another great option is Fiano from southern Italy, as it has a beefier texture to stand up to the extra heft of the salad.
Cobb
With a Cobb, you’re dealing in bacon. That calls for a wine that can go toe-to-toe with that greasy, smoky goodness. Again, sparkling is a fine option to play off the fattiness of the meat. But to take on the salad at large, try a Kerner. This Alto Adige wine is more robust than you might think. While it has some delicate aromatics, the acidity will cut into the protein and a freshness that balances out the saltiness of the salad.
Still thinking about Italy? Us too. Check out our Italian cities guide for some destinations to add to your bucket list.
