The watch world is rich with history. With brands like Rolex, Omega, and Tudor coming out of Switzerland, it is easy to forget that they all owe a little part of their success to the father brand of all wristwatches, Patek Philippe. Since they created the first Swiss wristwatch for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary in 1868, they have innovated and led the way to create a massive watch industry that chronophiles love.
This year, at Watches and Wonders, they showed again that they are the best in the business by providing a whole slate of timepieces for us to ogle for the coming year. Here are all the watches Patek Philippe dropped in Geneva that you need to know about.
World Time with Date
By far, the most striking and innovative release from Patek Philippe this year will be the World Time with Date. An update to the limited edition from last year, the WTD features a few firsts. The most impressive is the industry’s first auto-adjusting mechanical date and time feature. The timezones etched around the inner side of the bezel allow you to choose your time zone and the date and time update for ease of use. There is an inner dial split between day or night to show am or pm and an outer dial on the bezel numbering 31. The second first is a PP first, featuring a clear hand reaching out to the date tab, covered in red lacquer. This feature keeps the date hand from obscuring the rest of the beautiful dial that makes this watch so unique and a must-have for all collectors.
5396G
You can always count on Patek Philippe to update their annual calendar reference 5396, and this year’s version is one to behold. The first white gold version features a sunburst blue dial. The day and month windows at the 12 spot and the date window at the 6 spot make the date and day easy to read. The moon phase feature in the bottom center means there is only one required manual adjustment a year after February.
Nautilus
The Nautilus will get its own white gold update in 2024. This year, it is offered with a calfskin strap with a denim overlay or a composite material strap to wear either as a tool watch or as a casual everyday watch. The center window on the blue dial puts all chronograph indicators, including the 0-60 seconds hand and the 12-hour hand, in one easy-to-read place.
Grand Complications
If you’re confused about what a complication is, we can explain it. A complication is anything a watch does that goes beyond telling the time, such as a moon phase or a date-day. All complications are complications. A grand complication is simply one that marries two or more of these complications into the same watch. Patek Philippe perfected this and updated many of its grand complications for this year.
The 5520 now comes in a two-toned rose gold version and has a “travel time” feature. With the local time displayed in the apertures and the local with the hands, you’ll never be out of touch with family.
The 5160 is more than just a new rose gold version. It is also a working piece of art on your wrist with designs modeled after a pocket watch from the Patek Philippe Museum. A true collector’s love.
The 5236 is another nostalgic option, as they designed the new dial as a vintage throwback with an in-line date and day window. And just for flare, they threw in a diamond at the 6.
Aquanaut
PP turned the sporting world on its head in 1997 when it introduced the Aquanaut line. It was chic, trendy, and completely unexpected from a brand that always leans toward elegance. The “tropical” band allowed this to be worn doing things other than rubbing elbows with royalty as its composite material protected it from salt water, UV radiation, and normal wear and tear. In 2024, we get some new versions of the Aquanaut.
The 5268/461G is a sight to behold as it throws everything at you. A beautiful white-gold case is adorned with baguette-cut blue sapphire hour markers and snow-set brilliant-cut diamonds in between. Those same gems make up the emblematic checkerboard pattern the collection is known for and will draw the eye of any collector.
The 5269R forgoes the diamonds and opts for a more simplistic option best made for traveling the world. The strap is the same composite material that will keep you unbothered by the adventures you take, while the rose gold casing will remind everyone that you are still wearing a Patek Philippe, and style and elegance aren’t ever forgotten.
Finally, the 5164G (not pictured) is very similar to the 5269 with the same features and similar look, only with a more subtle white gold casing. It is simple, elegant, and durable, perfect for the man who jet-sets around the world in style.
