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The daiquiri deserves better — and here’s why I still believe in it

Put down the paper umbrella and walk away.

Refreshing rum daiquiri
Brent Hofacker / Adobe Stock

The daiquiri has a PR problem — and frankly, it’s one it brought on itself. These days, the word conjures up an image of something slushy and neon, a sugar-bomb churned out of a machine at a cruise ship bar. It’s a drink that arrives in a plastic souvenir cup, wearing a paper umbrella like a bad hat, topped with canned whipped cream and maybe a wedge of fruit that’s seen better days. It’s the drink you order when you’ve decided you don’t care what’s actually in your glass, as long as it’s cold, pink, and packs enough booze to make you forget you’re sunburned.

But here’s the thing: the daiquiri wasn’t always this way. Once upon a time, it was one of the most elegant cocktails on the planet — a perfect little triangle of rum, lime, and sugar. No blender, no syrup, no electric blue mystery goo. Just balance. Just restraint. Just, well… dignity.

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And if anyone appreciated that dignity, it was Ernest Hemingway.

The daiquiri’s story starts in Cuba in the early 1900s, where an American engineer named Jennings Cox mixed one up in the town of Daiquirí to fight off the sweltering heat. It wasn’t some wild party drink — it was a simple solution to the heat. But it didn’t stay a humble porch sipper for long. It quickly made its way into Havana’s bars, and by the 1930s, Hemingway had claimed it as his own at El Floridita, famously ordering a version stripped of sugar and doubled up on rum. The Papa Doble.

Now, let’s be honest: Hemingway could drink like a man with nothing to lose. The rest of us? Not so much. His version of the drink — nearly four ounces of rum, zero sugar — was less cocktail, more dare. It was the kind of drink that separates the poets from the pretenders. Bartenders wisely dialed it back for the masses, adding just enough sweetness to soften the edges, and the Hemingway Daiquiri was born.

Here’s why I think this drink deserves a revival — and why we need to talk about it like we mean it. The Hemingway Daiquiri is everything the frozen daiquiri is not: tart instead of cloying, crisp instead of goopy, layered instead of one-note. Shake it up, strain it into a coupe, garnish it with a twist, and you’ve got something that tastes like the sun hitting the ocean. It’s bold, but not brash. It’s thoughtful, but not fussy.

More importantly, it actually fits who we are now as drinkers. We want cocktails with character, but not pretension. Drinks that tell a story without needing a ten-minute lecture from the bartender. We’re over the syrupy sugar bombs of the ’80s and ‘90s, just like we’re over “martinis” that taste like birthday cake.

I say we retire the frozen machine and bring back the drink that deserves the name — or better yet, the Hemingway version. Because when you raise that glass, you’re not just drinking rum and lime juice. You’re sipping something clean, sharp, and a little rebellious.

And that’s the kind of daiquiri worth coming back to.

Hemingway daiquiri recipe

A daiquiri cocktail
Dan Baker / The Manual/Dan Baker

Ingredients:

  • 2 ounces white rum

  • 3/4 ounce fresh lime juice

  • 1/2 ounce fresh grapefruit juice

  • 1/2 ounce maraschino liqueur

Method:

  1. Place a coupe or cocktail glass in the freezer until chilled.

  2. Pour the rum, lime juice, grapefruit juice, maraschino liqueur, and ice into a cocktail shaker.

  3. Shake vigorously for about 15 seconds.

  4. Strain the cocktail into the chilled glass.

  5. Garnish with a lime or grapefruit twist.

Lindsay Parrill
Lindsay is a graduate of California Culinary Academy, Le Cordon Bleu, San Francisco, from where she holds a degree in…
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