From avant-garde timepieces to designs that defied the current traditional aesthetics to watchmaking, Watches & Wonder 2025 presented some of the most stunning and record-shattering feats of engineering. This year’s presentation was all about stepping outside the norms and challenging boundaries that sparked conversation, innovation, and the recalibration of the rules. Notable debuts this year included one of the thinnest tourbillons ever and a few futuristic-looking dials, with the following just some of the astonishing watches from Watches & Wonders 2025 releases that redefined the definition of horological luxury.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Expectations are to be defied, boundaries to be pushed, and Bulgari has once again set the bar high and then raised it with their latest release, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. Pushing the boundaries of watchmaking craftsmanship at a world-breaking 1.85mm, it now holds the title of world’s thinnest tourbillon watch. This micro-engineering achievement was made possible due in part to extreme skeletonization and the integration of the movement directly into the main plate. This latest release goes grand technically with the incorporation of tourbillon mechanisms at the tiniest of dimensions. The overall process necessitates near-perfection as any slight of hand can impact the structural integrity. Powering this watchmaking feat is a manually wound BVF 900 caliber, a COSC-certified movement that proves that ultra-thin models are also capable of precision and performance.
- Case Size: 40 mm
- Case Material: Titanium lugs, bezel, and middle case. Tungsten carbide main plate. Time-setting wheels and winding in stainless steel.
- Power Reserve: 50 hours
- Strap: Sandblasted titanium bracelet
Piaget’s Andy Warhol
Releasing the Andy Warhol ‘Clou de Paris’ in 1972 was a stroke of artistic genius, and Piaget went one step further by introducing two more gem-centric versions of the timepiece. The first features an opal dial framed by round-cut blue sapphires and three concentric rows of baguette-cut diamonds, and the second features a tiger’s dial with a minimalist look. To paraphrase the great Warhol, everyone must have more than one fantasy.
- Case Size: 43 mm x 45 mm
- Case Material: 18-karat white gold
- Power Reserve: 40 hours
- Strap: Dark blue and brown alligator straps
- Price: Starting from $51,000 for the tiger’s eye, $421,000 for the blue sapphire edition
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’
The brand’s most beloved model, the Reverso, had several new releases this year, but the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ required 100 hours of work when it came to the creation of each caseback. This model delves back to ancient Persian times through hand-painted enamel that is now featured on these limited editions. (There are four different timepieces featuring four different paintings with 10 pieces each.) The paintings depict illustrations from the Persian epic poem, Shahnameh.
- Case Material: 18-karat white gold
- Power reserve: 42 hours
- Strap: Black alligator
Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu
It may have taken 15 years, but Hermès finally listened to their clients and collectors to revive the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu, which allows wearers to pause the hour and minute hands. The wearer can now view movement through the dial side and continue until ready to return to tracking the time. Push the button one more time and it automatically catches up – a marvel in horological innovation.
- Case Size: 42mm
- Case Material: Rose gold, white gold
- Strap: Alligator, calfskin
- Price: TBD
Chanel J12 Box “Dripping Art”
More than 200 hours of research and due diligence went into the creation of Chanel’s J12 Box ‘Dripping Art’ collection, meant to simulate drips of nail polish, a technique made famous by Jackson Pollock. The high-fashion brand went through more than 100 different color tests to perfect the process of matching nail colors to ceramics. The end result is the look of splattered color poured onto a canvas to create five works of art. The lacquered box maintains the splash pattern across all five boxes for an all-together cohesive look.
- Case Size: 38 mm
- Case Material: Black ceramic
- Power Reserve: 70 hours
- Strap: Black ceramic bracelet
- Price: Five-set limited edition, price upon request
What these outrageous releases signify for watch collectors
Watches & Wonders 2025 once again broke barriers in horology, keeping collectors intrigued with bold designs, record-breaking mechanical feats, and the use of materials previously unused in watchmaking. These latest releases signify how luxury horology is headed towards a vibrant, more experimental era. Watch enthusiasts of today have far more choice as the industry ventures towards more progressive creations; the wristwear of today and tomorrow promises to resonate for generations to come.
