Everyone remembers where they were the first time they watched James Bond walk into the shot wearing a tuxedo. Whether you were introduced to the tuxedo by Sean Connery, Daniel Craig, or someone in between, the tuxedo is part of their image. Everyone from Jay Gatsby to Danny Ocean has rocked the tuxedo in the best ways. Most of us tried to recreate the look when it came around to prom, to varying results. But now we can help you figure out how to wear a tuxedo to keep up with the men above.
While we can’t guarantee you will pass as 007, throw the best Gatsby party, or pull off the heist of the century (we definitely don’t suggest giving this a shot), we can tell you that if you follow these tips, you will put them all to shame.
When to wear a tuxedo
There’s a hierarchy of formality in men’s clothing. Whatever event you are going to will fall into one of these categories. In the three most formal, a tuxedo is appropriate.
- White tie: Think tuxes with white vests, ties, coattails, and sometimes top hats.
- Black tie: Think prom and most weddings you go to. Wear a basic tux and mostly black vests and ties.
- Black tie optional: This is one of those times when people say one thing and mean the other; they are just being nice. It usually means they want you to wear a tuxedo, so do it.
- Business professional: What it sounds like. Think Harvey Specter in Suits. Suits in basic colors. Ties in subtle patterns and solids. Shoes in classic form. This is appropriate for the office.
- Cocktail attire: The best way to define this is business professional with personality. It will feel very similar to the above: only you can wear things you wouldn’t normally wear to the office.
- Smart casual: Elevated version of business casual. No polos or denim here. Dress pants and dress shirts. Everything is sharp and high quality.
- Business casual: This is almost a standard uniform of chinos and a polo with hybrid dress sneakers.
- Casual: Wear whatever you want, just be covered.
What to know about wearing a tuxedo
Know what you’re working with
Most tuxedos consist of a specific tuxedo jacket, matching tuxedo pants (typically designed with a vertical silk stripe running from the waist to the hem), a vest, a cummerbund, and black patent leather shoes. The tuxedo jacket usually features either a shawl or peak-collar lapel, traditionally done in a lightweight fabric with some shine, which is better to stand out against the black or navy body of the jacket.
The cumberbund is an extension of your waistband, which covers the area where your shirt tucks into your pants. The pants usually forgo belt loops instead of side tabs or suspenders. A tuxedo is most commonly worn with a crisp white dress shirt and a black bow tie rather than a traditional necktie. Look at James Bond himself for the ultimate example of a tuxedo that gets these traditional details correct.
Know your sizing
A tuxedo jacket is usually cut slightly longer in the tail than a more trendy suit jacket or blazer. That being said, the principles of fit should remain the same. The coat should feature high armholes that still provide room for movement.
The jacket should hug your shoulders without being too restrictive. And the tuxedo jacket, which most commonly features one silk button rather than two or three horn buttons found on a suit jacket, should be neither too tight nor too baggy. When in doubt, take your regular suit jacket and pants size.
Know your accessories
If you’re renting a tuxedo for an event from a company like Generation Tux, then the hard work is taken care of: Tuxedo rental services work with you to dial in your fit and your customization options, and then they send along accessories like a shirt (worn with studs covering the buttons), plus patent leather shoes.
On that note, patent leather shoes, made from shiny leather, are the best (and possibly only) shoes to wear with your tuxedo. You also have your choice of bow tie options, but bow ties you tie yourself, a la James Bond, are usually more expensive.
Finding the best tuxedo for you
Rent or buy?
Here’s an age-old question: how long and how often will you wear your tuxedo? Will you be dressing formally multiple times a year? Or rarely? Some of our favorite brands, including Todd Snyder, offer beautifully tailored tuxedos in modern colors and fabrics, the kind you’d wear as the groom at your wedding. And retailers like Bonobos have also dipped their toes into the tailoring world with fine Italian tuxedos.
Renting a tuxedo, as long as you know your measurements and have enough time to account for any other needs (i.e., exchanging your tuxedo for a different size), works nicely, too.
Traditional or modern?
This next point is a matter of personal preference. Still, you may want to change things slightly if you know the most commonly found types of tuxedos (with the aforementioned black jacket and pants, plus accessories to match). Stylish celebrities like Ryan Gosling have popularized the notion of wearing uncommon shades of jackets and pants on the red carpet (a burgundy tuxedo, anyone?), but tread carefully: They’re pros for a reason. When in doubt, go clean and classic.
Flashy or straightforward?
We offer this last point concerning the accessories you’ll wear with your tuxedo. Notably, a tuxedo jacket doesn’t often have a chest pocket for a pocket square, but if it does, stick with a crisp white pocket square with a straight fold. As for your wristwatch, it’s uncommon to wear a stainless steel dive watch with your tuxedo. Opt for a crisp, dressy black leather watch with an understated dial and design.
From there, ensure your beard and face are well-groomed, your hair is nicely styled, and the details are taken care of because the rest will work itself out. After all, you’re the best-dressed guy in the place if you know how to wear a tuxedo the right way.
