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Ashland, Oregon’s food scene is small-town magic with big-city flavor

The many wonderful restaurants of a charming Oregon town

Cicorico Ashland interior.
Mark Stock / The Manual

Ashland has a lot going its way, from a gorgeous southern Oregon setting to a charming size and being home to the annual Shakespeare Festival. But there’s even more to this city of 21,000 just above the California border, like a Bohemian vibe and some great American Viticultural Areas nearby to satisfy the wine drinkers of the bunch.

Set quietly several miles off the interstate, yet still incredibly convenient to access, Ashland has an adorable downtown that’s highly walkable. Within these blocks, you’ll find friendly faces, outstanding food, and some world-class parks. Be it a breakfast pastry you’re after or a multi-course dinner worthy of your camera, you’ll find satisfaction here.

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Whether Ashland is the destination or en route on a road trip to the central Californian coast or even Seattle, it’s worth a stop for a meal or two. One bite, and you’ll likely be extending your stay. Here’s where you should stop when dining in Ashland, Oregon.

Alchemy

Alchemy restaurant in Ashland.
Mark Stock / The Manual

If you’re after a genuine dining experience, head over to Alchemy. The refined fair in a Victorian home with great drinks is storybook. It’s high-end without the pretense and where I’ve had some of my most enjoyable meals in all of southern Oregon. Bucolic and very much of the countryside, the restaurant rests in the core of a dazzling 19th Century building with dishes as good as the surroundings. Chat up the house somm on suggested wines as well as thoughtful pairings.

Cocorico

Cicorico Ashland restaurant.
Mark Stock / The Manual

Cocorico describes itself as neo-rustic cuisine, which is quite apt. The French and Italian informed place with a fantastic wine list seems like it was plucked right from a European alleyway and dropped off in Ashland. The dishes are fresh and vibrant, like the chilled borscht or sardine frisée. Move on to some memorable pasta, like the mushroom Bolognese or go with a hearty chickpea tagine. Be sure to have your server suggest a good wine by the glass or if you feel like a cocktail, try a Bitter Bearcat (gin, green Chartreuse, Cynar) or a mountainous Huckleberry Mule.

Omar’s

Omar's Ashland restaurant.
Facebook/Omar's / Facebook

Ashland’s first public cocktail lounge dating back to 1947, Omar’s remains a classic spot near campus with an amazing bar that attracts the academics. Think steakhouse fare, like various cuts and dishes like shrimp tempura and chicken fried steak. Begin with friend Brussels sprouts or an oyster shooter before trying a high stack BLT. It’s old school hospitality, as in all entrees come with a cup of soup and salad. Thirsty? Try a house cocktail like the Gin Blossom, made of gin, St. Germaine, fresh lemon, grapefruit bitters, and soda water.

Jacksonville Inn

Jacksonville Inn.
Jacksonville Inn

Jacksonville is worth the short drive from Ashland as it’s a delightfully preserved city on the National Registry of Historic Places. It looks like a set and the Jacksonville Inn is a core fixture, a structure originally built way back in 1861. This place blends an amazing wine list with incredibly hospitality for a real snapshot of the southern Oregon culinary scene. Start up top in the wine lounge before heading down to the restaurant, which seems carved into the bedrock of the place. Let your server be your guide as you sample through delights like grilled octopus Nicoise, asparagus risotto, rack of lamb, or duck confit.

Taj

Taj Indian cuisine.
Taj

Great Indian fare soothes the soul and that’s the sensation at Taj. Meander casually through the respectable biryani and tandoori options and look out for things like goat curry and classics like vindaloo. Start with pakora and get into all those sauces properly with an number of house-basked Indian bread options. The lunch buffet is a great feast if you’re looking to power up midday.

Harana Cafe

Harana Cafe Ashand.
Facebook/Harana / Facebook

Harana Cafe is relatively new to the scene and stresses Filipino cuisine. The menu is full of delightful discoveries, from the green mango salad to the chicken adobo and squash and coconut stew with fermented black beans. There are stellar noodle dishes to enjoy as well as Filipino beer and natural wines. We suggest a well-made cocktail, like the Milk Tea, a mix of whiskey, milk tea, pandan, grapefruit, and lemon.

MÄS

MAS restaurant Ashland.
MAS

Arguably Ashland’s most talked-about restaurant at the moment, MÄS serves up contemporary fare. Chef Josh Dorcak is working his magic, pulling from Pacific Northwest ingredients and giving them some avant-garde accents and Japanese sensibilities. The place is racking up the awards and nominations so go full boar and do the tasting menu, sure to feature creative delights from both land and sea. Liquid wise, there are wines, sakes, and spirits to enjoy that team up with the cuisine expertly.

Larks Home Kitchen Cuisine

The Lark Ashland.
The Lark

Larks Home Kitchen Cuisine is the hotel restaurant of Ashland Springs, serving up classic bistro fare. There are feel-good items abound on the menu, from the meatloaf to the fried chicken with buttermilk-whipped herb potatoes. Look out for seasonal pasta options and great cuts of steak and stick around for a nightcap and something sweet, like a slice of milk chocolate Basque cheesecake. Show up a little early and grab a cocktail at the 1920’s bar or peruse the lengthy wine list showcasing the many fine options made just a short drive from downtown.

Mix Bakeshop

Mix Baskeshop Ashland.
Facebook/Mix Bakeshop / Facebook

There’s a crispness and freshness to the Ashland air, probably in good part due to the high elevation Rogue Valley setting. Brisk mornings here call for a good bakery like Mix Bakeshop. Calling a historic brick building its home, the bakery excels at French pastries and great coffee. Alternatively, pop in for a scoop of house-made ice cream in the early evening (or do both).

Skout Taphouse & Provisions

Skout Taphouse & Provisions.
Facebook/Skout Taphouse / Facebook

Skout knows what we like. The gastro pub is situated perfectly, right at the base of Lithia Park for great people watching. This is where you go on one of Ashland’s many sunny afternoons for an outdoor table, a good pint of local beer, and maybe even some dirty fried or smoked trout dip. Skout Taphouse also has bbq, brats, and Tex-Mex if you want to make a meal of it.

Where to stay

Ashland Springs Hotel.
Mark Stock / The Manual

There are lots of excellent airbandb options in and around Ashland worth exploring. For an iconic stay in Oregon’s only National Park, located about 90 minutes away via a beautiful drive, book a room at Crater Lake Lodge. In town, there’s hardly a better hotel than Ashland Springs. The century-old art deco building is a site to behold and offers immensely elegant rooms right in the heart of town. The nine-story building remains a skyscraper by Ashland standards and guests are whisked back in time the moment they enter the inviting lobby.

Mark Stock
Mark Stock is a writer from Portland, Oregon. He fell into wine during the Recession and has been fixated on the stuff since…
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