Sherry, for those in the know, is absolutely wonderful. More often than not, though, it still draws a wince from the casual restaurant or bar-goer (another fortified wine, port, knows how it feels). The stereotypes — cheap, used only for cooking, only consumed by old people — are pervasive, much to sherry’s discredit. It’s time to change all that.
The last several years have seen beer become more like wine and wine become more oxidative (e.g., natural wine styles, Jura Chardonnay, skin-fermented or orange wines, etc.). Sherry has held a certain esteem throughout, wearing its nutty, briny, dried fruit flavors on its shimmering gold sleeves and for good reason — the sherry designation contains some of the driest as well as the sweetest wines on the planet. No matter what sort of wine you are looking for, chances are you can find something similar to it within the category.
In terms of its presence on the restaurant scene, sherry appears to be enjoying a kind of hipster revival — as evidenced by a few “Is sherry enjoying a revival?” stories making the rounds. This, however, might be the exception that probably proves the rule: Sherry consumption has tanked over the last 50-odd years. It became decidedly uncool during the 1980s and increasingly associated with the ascot-wearing type of older gentleman. I’m here to tell you that, in fact, sherry is absolutely wonderful and comes in a variety of expressions.
What is sherry?
Born in Spain and made primarily from the Palomino grape, then fortified with grape brandy, sherry goes back a few thousand years but really gained a European footing in the 13th century. Columbus traveled to the New Word with plenty in tow. Shakespeare loved it. Magellan, in what is one of my favorite drinks legends ever, is said to have shelled out more on sherry than arms as he prepared to sail around the globe.
Today, sherry, just as with other spirits or liquors, can only be made within a specific region. Known as the marco de Jerez or “Sherry Triangle,” sherry is made in three towns in Southern Spain — Jerez de la Frontera (known simply as Jerez, and pronounced “he-ref”), Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and El Puerto de Santa Maria.
Built around vulnerable grape vines, Sherry has withstood its share of disease problems. A massive phylloxera outbreak in 1894 caused significant damage to the area. It has since mostly recovered and is largely made up of four major dry types, two sweet types, and a variety of blended sherries. The four major dry types are Fino and Manzanilla, Amontillado, Palo Cortado, and Oloroso. The two sweet types are Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel, which are both named after the varietals used to produce them. We will be focusing on the dry sherries for the remainder of the article.
The production of the dry sherries — which are the bulk of all sherries produced — runs along a spectrum, from completely biological to completely oxidative — that is to say, whether or not it’s aged in association with the “velo de flor,” or mysterious veil of yeast unique to the sherry-making process.
Some bodegas have preserved their own proprietary flor colonies for decades, resulting in wines with distinct profiles. Wines that develop and age under the flor tend to be light and dry. Oxidative wines are made without these microorganisms and tend to be rounder. Winemakers are now experimenting with a combination of biological and oxidative techniques — flor first and oxidative aging after — with incredible results.
The main types of dry sherry
Fino
The Fino style is perhaps the most straightforward and dry, and often hits with some bread-y notes. Makes sense, given that this style is aged under the flor — barrel-aged under a film of its own yeast. There is oxygen exposure, but the perfect amount, given the flor’s protective abilities. Relatively simple and great chilled, this is a good, inexpensive introduction to sherry. Try it with tapas. Fino sherries are purely biological in their production (as are the next group, manzanilla sherries.)
Manzanilla
Manzanilla is also aged under the flor and shares many characteristics with fino sherries, except for one: Manzanilla sherry is only made in Sanlúcar de Barrameda.
Amontillado
Amontillado is a bit darker, aged in barrels under the flor (until all the flor dies), and then cask-aged and exposed to more oxygen. The result is a beautiful tawny specimen, often tasting woodsy, with candied fruit and nut elements. Amontillado sherries retain both the biologic and oxidative elements of sherry production. Try it with grilled mushrooms or artichokes and a reading from Edgar Allen Poe.
Palo Cortado
Palo Cortado is a style of sherry that functions as the best of both worlds. Aged under the flor for a little while, it is also aged oxidatively. If you can’t decide which side of the spectrum you like more, palo cortado is for you. Not as rich as oloroso, palo cortados still maintain a very full mouthfeel in each sip.
Oloroso
The darkest and most complex is oloroso, aged the longest and worthy of aging much longer (it is also not aged under the flor at all). Because it rests in cask the longest, it concentrates the most in terms of flavor. If you’re looking for sherry at its most dense and sophisticated, this style is for you.
The best sherry to try today
- The Tio Pepe Palomino Fino is the gold standard for fino sherries. Dry and crisp, it goes down easy on its own or mixed into a cocktail.
- The Hidalgo Pasada Manzanilla should be enjoyed on its own. It’s a carefully blended sherry, showing apple, citrus blossom, and roasted nut flavors. Try it out on your friends as an aperitif before your next dinner gathering.
- The Valdespino Amontillado Tío Diego is quite dry, with notes of hazelnut, dried fruit, coffee, and a hint of caramel. A well-balanced acidity makes it perfect to sip on after a meal.
- The González Byass Leonor Palo Cortado is aged for 12 years, and is rich in nutty flavors mixed with cherries and just a little candied orange zest. Sweet on the palate, it dries slightly over time.
- The Fernando de Castilla Oloroso is built for the waning days of winter. Sip this layered sherry in front of the fireplace with a good book in hand. If you don’t have a fireplace, the warming nature of the fortified wine itself will suffice.
Bodegas Lustau is also a great brand to look up if you’re looking to dabble in the sherry circuit. If you’re feeling extra inventive, do as they do at the excellent Portland bar Rum Club and replicate their “Fino Countdown” cocktail (Fino sherry, Blackstrap, and Jamaican rums, vanilla, allspice, lemon). It’s a delightful palate bender; sweet, savory and citrusy. Need something lighter? Tio Pepe recommends a Tiojito — one part Tio Pepe Fino to three parts lemon-lime soda.
How does sherry differ from port?
Both sherry and port are fortified with brandy, but even that process is distinct — port is fortified halfway through its fermentation, while sherry’s fortification happens at the end. Port is native to Portugal’s Douro region and is made primarily with red wine grapes (yes, there’s such a thing as white port, but stick with me here). The most popular grape varieties that go into port are Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão, and Touriga Franca.
Generally speaking, port tends to be much richer and viscous than sherry — particularly the ruby varieties, which can be voluptuous combinations of stewed fruit, baking spices, and tobacco. Most port is aged in barrels, while sherry is more commonly associated with the solera system — a never-ending, multi-stage process involving the fractional blending of newer and older vintages. This results not only in consistency but is vital for flor support.
Still curious about these hybrid wine styles? Check out our port wine guide and our fortified wines guide. Don’t forget to use glassware that allows you to really sniff the product and rinse in between tastes.
