For most people in America, mention sake and a clear, dry spirit come to mind, served either hot or cold in small cups alongside Japanese cuisine. However, like wine, sake has many styles. One of the most interesting varieties is the complex Shiboritate sake. Translated to “freshly squeezed,” this unpasteurized sake is a classic taste of the spring season in Japan. We interviewed Leo Lê, previously of two Michelin-starred Uchu and current beverage director of Kappo Sono, a 12-seat kaiseki restaurant helmed by Chef Chikara Sono, to learn more about this vibrant style of sake.
“It’s [Shiboritate sake] often really juicy. It’s vivacious, vibrant, in your face, and really fun to drink,” said Lê. “They’re often effervescent sake as well…and it’s a good metaphor for the start of the spring.”
The complex flavors of Shiboritate sake
First, while many sake are served warm, Lê always recommends drinking Shiboritate sake chilled or at room temperature. The reason is that this type of unpasteurized sake is “still living,” according to Lê. Applying heat would erase many of the nuanced flavors along with its unique texture (cloudy, with a lactic, almost dairy-like quality, which can be destroyed by heat).
Interestingly, sake consumption has been decreasing in Japan over the decades. Changing tastes, along with sake having a reputation for being old-fashioned, are often cited as the reasons for the spirit’s decreasing popularity in its homeland. However, in Lê’s opinion, new sake breweries are producing dynamic beverages that can change this perception, including unique styles of Shiboritate sake. “Nowadays, we have younger sake brewers who are reacting against these old-school styles,” explained Lê. “And they’re more interested in producing sake that is really wine-like, really layered on the palate and aromatic, really intense and really complex sake that doesn’t really have to be paired with any food at all.”
Pairing Shiboritate sake at Kappo Sono
As a 12-seat kaiseki restaurant, the Kappo Sono tasting menu is seasonal and constantly changing. Kaiseki is a traditional style of fine dining in Japan that is hyper-focused on seasonality and techniques. Because of the constant, shifting courses, Lê is forever changing his beverage pairings to match the new flavors (at times, Chef Chikara Sono can change the menu every two weeks). Besides sake, Kappo Sono also features French wines in its beverage pairings. However, for Shiboritate sake, Lê prefers to pair them with the hassun course of a kaiseki menu, which is generally a number of small, seasonal bites. This course is seasonal and shifting, a great course to pair with the vibrant and currently seasonal Shiboritate sake.
One of Lê’s favorite Shiboritate sake is the Kirinzan, “Potari Potari,” Nama Junmai Ginjo Genshu. Brewed from a small brewery in Niigata prefecture, this sake is juicy and very aromatic with tropical fruit notes of melon and papaya, along with fresh, grassy flavors. Only 60 bottles are available in America, making this a rare bottle of sake.
