Climate change changes everything, from coastal communities and threats of wildfires to what we can grow in our backyards. In wine, warmer temperatures have made growing grapes in places once deemed impossible, well, possible. And in the case of England, it’s not just about possible; it’s about real, serious potential.
England has a pretty lengthy history involving wine, but it’s only recently that the critics have been playing close attention. The nation has become an unlikely hero in the sparkling wine realm, creating offerings as good as what we enjoy from Champagne or North America.
Now, it’s the still wines that are turning heads. Even tough-to-make varieties like Pinot Noir are finding sturdy footing in regions like Essex, now warm enough to produce optimal growing seasons. Here, in the south of England, near the Crouch River and rooted in the excellent soils of the so-called chalk bench, some excellent wines are being born, vintage after vintage.
History
The Romans pretty much introduced wine everywhere the empire roamed and the story is no different with England. But the grapes grown early on generally went into the production of sweeter wines (that probably weren’t that complex, let alone good). This continued through the Middle Ages, as growers continued to hone in on their craft but dealt with challenges ranging from cool temperatures to unfavorable humidity.
Finally, it seemed England simply accepted its fate as a better producer of beer and spirits, opting to import the vast majority of its wine from fellow European countries with much more prominent wine scenes. But that all changed in the last generation or two, with growers taking advantage of more favorable weather and chalky soils. Now, Brits are making not just award-winning bubbles, but excellent chardonnay, pinot noir, and more.
The promising present
The present heartbeat of English wine seems to be Essex. Here, growers are reveling in everything from long growing seasons to soil not unlike that found in Bordeaux. Commercial producers have been at it here since the late 1960s but there was a learning curve. Gradually, farmers switched to grape growers, increased talent entered the fray, and an industry that grew up.
And it’s more than just the noble varieties mentioned. Producers here are making lively dry whites like Albariño and character-driven pink wines. Keep in mind this is a region most thought could only produce hybrid wine grapes just a generation ago. Now, it’s a place for stunning wines and home to an extremely bright enological future.
Winemakers from elsewhere are already beginning to explore the scene, a nod of approval we’ve seen in great spots on the international wine map before. It’s only a matter of time until we start talking about English wine in the same breath as Greek wine or Spanish wine.
Labels to watch
Some 50 vineyards exist in Essex at the moment, and that number is set to rise. Visitors can taste and tour many of the offerings, and Americans can expect to see more in their favorite shops soon. Here are some English wine labels to pay attention to.
Crouch Ridge Estate
This pretty operation overlooks the namesake river and is behind some deftly made sparkling and still wines. Crouch Ridge opened its barn to the public in 2019 and has since become a go-to for great chardonnay, pinot noir, and even Bacchus, a cross between a Silvaner and riesling hybrid with Müller-Thurgau.
Danbury Ridge Wine Estate
Danbury Ridge launched in 2012 and is located in the Danbury-to-Tiptree ridge. It pulls from three vineyards here, which boast a splendid and unique microclimate ideal for viticulture. Small-batch wines are the name of the game here, made in a gravity-flow facility and in a sensitive way that really showcases the terroir of the region.
Walgate Wines
A bit harder to find but worth the effort, Walgate is a rising star in England you’re likely to hear more and more about. High wine IQ bottle shops are already battling it out for allotments of this sought-after wine. It does sparkling and still wines from the usual suspects, along with some fantastic pinot blanc and pinot meunier. This is wine made in the classical style, low-intervention, and farmed in a biodynamic and organic fashion.
The way things are going, you’re likely to see more English wines in your local bottle shop or wine-centric restaurant. More and more wine types are taking notice of Essex wines and imports from the region, along with general production, are on the rise.
So, when you’re chatting up your favorite wine steward or dining at your most beloved restaurant, inquire about the wines of England. If they don’t know about them now, at this rate, they soon will.
Check out our related wine features on high-elevation winemaking and American winery travel destinations. Explore the wine map, glass in hand, and treat your senses to the flavor of the place. Cin Cin!
