Move over wine, beer can pair to exceptional heights, too. Sure, a good cheap beer is fantastic with a ballpark hot dog, but the beverage can do some heavy lifting, too. Considering the many styles and added ingredients in beer, one could argue that it has the pairing prowess of the best wines out there.
We chatted all things beer and food — beer pairings — with Jared Rouben. He’s the brewmaster at Moody Tongue, a restaurant that specializes in combining those two very things. In fact, it has pulled the feat off so well that the place currently holds two Michelin stars.
The beers range from lychee IPAs to caramelized churro chocolate porters and involve interesting adjuncts (Rouben insists black truffles are the most interesting ingredient he’s brewed with thus far). And while there’s no denying the feats more obscure beers can take on in the pairing department, simpler beers can do the trick, too.
As Rouben preaches, it’s more about balance and simplicity. His philosophy at the restaurants banks on high-quality ingredients and the appropriate handling thereof. In doing so, aromatics and flavors are put on a pedestal. Oftentimes, the little things add up to make a great marriage between an ale and a dish. “Rather than having particular dishes in mind, I typically have particular ingredients in mind when brewing beers,” Rouben said.
Thinking about it in wine terms can help. “It’s important to think of why a beer pairing works,” he continues. “For example, I love pairing our Oud Bruin with dishes on our tasting menu in The Dining Room in Chicago that showcase wagyu (currently our Australian Citrus Wagyu course served with charred cabbage, bone marrow espuma, a wagyu pierogi, and bacon jam). This is a relatively complex beer with notes of tart cherry and rhubarb, which pairs well with wagyu in a similar manner to that as a red Burgundy wine.”
But simplicity can make for a great pairing, too; it’s just about finding a match. “That said, I would alternatively recommend pairing our Aperitif Pilsner with our Whole Fried Fish in The Bar in Chicago (currently served with pickled mango and jicama, avocado, salsa macha, sauteed cabbage, and cilantro). This is a relatively simple beer — a light lager — which in this case, pairs well with an indulgent whole fried fish primarily because it helps cleanse your palate between flavorful bites.”
Thoughtful beer pairings can do wonders for both drink and dish. One of his faves involves a very wine-like beer, a Pressed Asian Pear Saison, paired up with dishes involving caviar. “Our brewers hand pick Asian pears from Oriana’s Orchard in Winslow, Illinois every year, and then the team juices the pears in the brewery and ages the pear juice in stainless steel while we simultaneously age a base saison in chardonnay barrels for the same period. After 12 months, we blend the two together and the resulting beer carries notes of apple, pear, brioche, and vanilla, reminiscent of vintage Champagne,” he said.
“What’s better than Champagne and caviar? Pressed Asian Pear Saison and caviar,” Rouben added.
Producing a better pairing
It all starts with giving beer the credit it’s due. As Rouben said, the stuff has more versatility than one might think. “Similar to sparkling wines like Champagne, carbonation in beer generally makes it a more food-friendly beverage as it cleanses one’s palate between bites,” he explained. “That said, with the wide variety of beer styles, you now also often find a similarly wide variety of flavors and aromatics that can be used when pairing with different cuisines and dishes.”
A great way to craft a winning match is by way of bridging. In other words, pairing the same or very similar ingredients. “At Moody Tongue Sushi in New York City, one of my favorite pairings is our Orange Blossom Belgian Blonde with our madai nigiri with orange zest and sea salt, where we showcase orange both in your glass and on your plate,” Rouben said.
And while beer pairings can be complicated, they don’t have to be and do serve a bigger purpose — one that can really elevate your dining experience (and maybe even get you some Michelin stars).
“We introduce pairings for a variety of reasons,” Rouben told us. “It may be because we fall in love with a seasonal ingredient, or it may be because we enjoy a particular seasonal beer style; however, when evaluating pairings, we always taste with our brewing team, culinary team, and service team before introducing a pairing on our menu for guests.”
Dress those more involved beers up. At Moody Tongue, they’re sometimes decanted and often poured into specific crystal glassware to bring out their many characteristics. Don’t be afraid to use your best wine glasses on beer; just make sure you’ve got your serving temperature dialed in. And consider aerating older beers, like barrel-aged stouts.
You heard the brewmaster, get to tasting and find that ideal match. With fall’s bounty right around the corner, there’s no better time to get lost in the sibling worlds of beer and food. And if you’re traveling via your stomach, check out the cities with the most Michelin stars.
