The American whiskey landscape is changing and it’s changing for the better. Whereas states like Kentucky and Tennessee used to be the only shows in town, these days, increasingly, more distillers from other corners of the American whiskey map are entering the game. If there’s one state that’s showcasing where this movement is all headed, it might just be Colorado.
There, producers are sourcing local grains from nearby farms and crafting something distinctly Coloradan. They are taking advantage of all the things that make Colorado terroir special—the climate, the elevation, the soils. And the results are bringing delightful new flavors to the American whiskey flavor wheel.
Colorado style starts with the farm
Jamie Burns is the lead distiller at The Family Jones. The label boasts a beautiful tasting room in the Highland neighborhood of Denver. The brand makes a number of spirits and bottled cocktails in addition to its bourbon and rye. “For us, capturing the sense of place starts with sourcing grains from local family farms that are practicing regenerative agriculture,” he says. “Most people think of the mountains when they think of Colorado, but what they forget is that half of the state is plains up to the Front Range. The four major grains used to make whiskey—corn, rye, wheat, and barley are all commercially grown in Colorado. Not every state can say that.”
Winemakers often say wine is made in the vineyard, and Burns echoes that, suggesting that their spirits start in the field. The heather soils, he says, help produce a more flavorful grain. “We work with our farmers to source heirloom, flavor- forward grains and work to showcase those flavors throughout the production process,” he says. “That means long fermentations that allow for a secondary fermentation with native lactic and acetic bacteria. While the majority of the whiskey in the world is column distilled, we used double pot distillation. We believe the double pot distillation method helps to retain all of the complex flavors originating from the grain and the fermentation.”
Burns says the maturation process also spotlights something uniquely Coloradan. “Barrel aging is another area where our climate leaves its fingerprints on our spirits,” he says. “Aging takes place at high altitude in a dry climate. Temperature swings of more than 30 degrees in a single day are not uncommon. All of this combines to help produce spirits with a distinct spice from the heirloom grains and ripe fruit character reminiscent of the stone fruit grown on Colorado’s western slopes. The dry climate is reflected in our spirits—crisp and not overly sweet.”
This formula relies on tight bonds between grower and distiller. “We’ve shaken the hand of every farmer we’ve bought grains from, and after almost eight years, most of them have turned into close friends,” Burns says. “We work to support each other so everyone succeeds. We have a two way dialogue about what grains and varieties are grown and work together to trial new ideas. We have a very short supply chain, which benefits both sides.”
Al Laws is the founder at Laws Whiskey House. His outfit is helping to shape Colorado whiskey as well, starting with the farm and sponging up all the details associated with place en route. “Colorado-style whiskeys owe a lot to the environment,” he says. “Snow melt water and lots of sun.” Laws sources from just a pair of family farms, which spotlight genuine Colorado terroir. “Also high elevation and rapid barometric pressure changes affect spirits aging in barrels giving them more barrel influence and rich colors,” he says.
Laws too is built around a grains-first philosophy. “Our whiskies are heavily influenced by the heirloom Colorado grown grains we use,” he says. “Varietals and the environment in which the grains grow combine to create unique, delicious flavors in our whiskey. Like many whiskies around the world, where they are made affect the flavors. Our whiskies taste like Colorado!”
The future of the scene
“Now is an exciting time in Colorado because a number of distilleries are starting to mature and release aged spirits that are coming into their own,” Burns says. “We’ve been producing for seven years, and will release spirits with an average age of four-to-five years in 2025. Age certainly isn’t everything and a whiskey that ages in Colorado is going to be different than a 4-year-old Kentucky whiskey.”
Presently, things are coming together nicely. “At 4-5 years old, we’re finding a spot where our spirits really hit their stride,” he says. Another helpful assist is coming from the booming Colorado craft beer industry, as well as the up-and-coming wine circuit, pulling from high elevation vineyards.
“Many craft distillers get their start in the craft brewing industry, so it’s helpful to have that network of talent and knowledge,” he says. There’s constant collaboration, whether it’s sharing equipment or turning malt mashes from local breweries and grapes from local wineries into genivere or brandy.
“It’s also helpful to have these industries to help reach a critical mass,” adds Burns. “We use malt, but not nearly as much as a brewery uses. Without the craft brewing industry, there wouldn’t be the craft maltsters we rely on.” And the craft consumers have paved the way for spending a little more for something local and well-made too.
Laws agrees and recently collaborated with Great Divide Brewing to age a whiskey that once housed the brewery’s famed Yeti Stout. Laws is also making a San Luis Valley Rye whiskey in tandem with TRVE Brewing. “The talent of makers and sophisticated consumers is part of the culture in the state,” Laws says. “It is great to see what others are doing, and, yes, it can lead to collaborations.”
Speaking of exciting times, Laws just opened their new so-called Sanctuary, easily one of the coolest whiskey tasting rooms ever conceived. “It is always exciting time for Colorado spirits,” adds Laws. “Lately the slow down in the sector has allowed more exploration of aged inventory resulting in some interesting blending opportunities to create unique flavors.”
He also credits the American Single Malt standard as a springboard of sorts. “A lot of folks in the state make American Single Malt,” he says. “There is some great variety here and we hope the certification piques consumers’ curiosity of these whiskies.”
Having tasted the offerings from both labels, we understand the excitement. These are robustly-flavored whiskies with a unique sense of place. Some of it comes from the TLC associated with smaller production, but there’s a palpable Colorado-ness as well.
Laws thinks the Colorado scene will mature much like Scotland, arguably the most famous whiskey-producing place on the map. In other words, certain areas will be known for certain flavors. “Colorado will undoubtedly be one of those areas,” he says. “Kentucky and Tennessee will always be central to American whiskey production but there are great and distinctive whiskies being made outside of these areas like upstate New York, the North Central states and Texas. All add to the great historical and storied fabric of American whiskey.”
