At República in Portland, mezcal is sacred. The Mexica-forward restaurant features more than 80 different types of the fantastic agave spirit. It’s one of the most impressive lists this side of the border.
Co-owner Angel Medina says his restaurant changed the way people talk about agave in the region. “When it comes to this spirit, there is no one more knowledgeable in the Pacific Northwest (and dare I say in the US) then our little hospitality group, part of that is intentionality in the way that we create around us,” he says. “The other part is truly just obsession by everyone who pours you something to sip on.”
Medina was kind enough to offer eight of the best brands for your money. “These are the most interesting, delicious, and all-around greats in our establishment,” he says.
Mezcal brands to watch
Here are some brands Medina says you can’t go wrong with at the moment. Chat up your local bottle shop to see what’s available. With the continued rise in popularity of agave spirits, it should only become easier to land a bottle or two from this esteemed list of producers, import groups, and more.
Mezonte
An NGO is promoting local and traditional mezcals, especially those hailing from Jalisco and Michoacán.
La Venenosa
La Venerosa features a host of producers operating under age-old practices, distilled in Jalisco.
Juerte Destilado de Pulque
Made by distilling agave sap, this take on pulque is made by a passionate husband-and-wife team in Tlaxcala.
Origen Raiz
A multi-generational effort of the Cortés family, this brand produces out of Durango and relies on decades and decades of experience.
Chacolo
Typically a bit more expensive, these refined Jalisco mezcals are the work of a fifth-generation family producer stressing more than a dozen local agave varieties.
Agua del Sol
Medina is very excited about this up-and-coming export project, based in Oaxaca and featuring a range of great mezcals supporting small farm communities.
El Jolgorio
Small-batch and beautifully wild mezcal from the outskirts of Oaxaca, appropriately translating to “the revelry.”
Derrumbes
The work of master distillers, Mezcal Derrumbes is behind expressions made in six different Mexican states, all stressing the varied nature of terroir to delicious results.
How to appreciate mezcal
By now, people should know not to dumb mezcal down as “tequila’s smoky cousin.” It’s just not fair. In that regard, you might as well call all Scotch peaty. “It’s just about the worst statement I hear from people and truly a sentiment that comes from not understanding the fundamental differences between the two spirits,” Medina says. “Overall, the best way to truly appreciate the spirit is to line up next to other mezcals as it highlights and amplifies the characteristics from one another, mostly eliminating the perceived ‘smokey’ character out of it.”
What else? Forego the wine-born temptation to pair mezcal up. Sometimes, it’s just better to fully absorb what’s in the glass. “I know it’s fashionable to try and pair cheese and mezcal, but when I drink the spirit, I want to drink the character of the spirit and not the influence of something lactic,” he says. “Outside of that, pairing mezcal with food isn’t the best experience for the simple fact that mezcal will activate all of the sugars, fats, acids, and salts in your mouth, essentially burning setting your mouth on fire (figuratively).”
Medina suggests that readers start with a few bottles of Espadin, comparing and contrasting half-ounce pours and honing in on what you like. Throw some water in the mix to cleanse your palate and see what your palate is drawn to. “Espadins are the most available of the mezcal varietals and often the most inexpensive,” he says. “Remember the difference between a $30 bottle of mezcal vs a $130 bottle is often based on the availability of the varietal and not always on the perceived brand value.”
As he says, it’s about knowing what you like within each varietal, whether that’s Espadin, Tobala, Mexicano, Tepeztate, etc. “Also, goes without saying, buy yourself some veladoras (the traditional mezcal-drinking cup) for consistency (and street cred). And don’t steal the ones from your local mezcaleria, either. Or the leather coasters,” he adds.”
You heard the man. Now, get out there and dispel that silly cliche about mezcal only being smoky. There’s an entire galaxy of flavor to enjoy within this captivating category of agave spirits.
Now that you know a thing about some of the best mezcals, it’s time to add to the knowledge bank. Check out our favorite classic tequila recipes and Mexican cuisine guide. We’ve also got stories on lesser-known liqueurs to round out your bar.
