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The pros reveal the intense struggle of retaining Michelin stars

Holding on to Michelin stars ain't easy

Nicoise salad at Restaurant Yuu.
Jordan Sapally / Jordan Sapally

Fine dining is a pressure cooker in so many ways. Retaining critical acclaim is one of those stressors, especially when you’re dealing in Michelin Stars. Getting just one of these decorations is a top honor, and when you get three, you’re considered one of the best eateries on the planet. Holding on to them can be even more challenging.

Yuu Shimano is the executive chef and owner of Restaurant Yuu in New York City. His establishment holds a Michelin star thanks to some incredible melding of French and Japanese food culture. He says the hardest part about retaining such a high honor is knowing exactly what the Michelin team will be evaluating.

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“Every chef naturally creates their internal standard, but it is difficult to tell whether Michelin will recognize it,” he admits. “However, it is essential to establish my evaluation standard based on experience. The real challenge is maintaining a high standard over time; this task, while challenging, is what motivates us to do our best and continuously raise the bar consistently.”

Shimano’s approach is part of the reason his place has gotten some attention, something he calls Japanese people conveying the culture of French cuisine. “I am committed to creating classic dishes that no other French restaurant currently does; this commitment reassures our guests and staff while embracing the concept of transcending national and cultural boundaries by having Japanese chefs lead the way for my French cuisine in America.”

Chef Yuu NYC.
Restaurant Yuu / Restaurant Yuu

As you might expect at Yuu, it’s a whole experience and not just a remarkable meal. “Restaurant Yuu is designed with a unique ‘theatrical’ concept, where our chefs and staff are showcased, making it easier to communicate our cultural values to our guests,” Shimano says. “At the beginning of the meal, one of the chefs emerges, unveiling the evening’s ingredients and the signature Duck en Croute before it is baked and presented later in the tasting.”

He says this approach conveys culture while maintaining a high standard of both invention and quality. “I am creating a unique culture and philosophy myself,” he adds. “Additionally, in my second year of owning and operating, I am focusing on deepening my understanding of guest perspectives as part of my new initiative.”

Such details can be the difference between holding on to or relinquishing that star. But a questions begs: Is this unnecessary pressure for an industry already buried in critiques, reviews, and the pursuit of good press?

“While it is often said that ‘stars are not everything,’ the experience of receiving a one-star rating was gratifying for everyone involved,” Shimano says. “The rating correlates with the performance of my team. I know that overthinking thinking, such as doing something solely to achieve two or three stars or if specific actions will prevent us from getting two stars, is not ideal. Therefore, maintaining the right balance over time will determine whether the restaurant will receive additional stars.”

Deleon Pinto is the COO of the Bastion Collection, which is behind a handful of restaurants that have earned an impressive nine stars since 2019. Pinto says retaining stars is about commitment, excellence, and exceeding expectations.

“Every detail—from ingredient sourcing to the execution of dishes and the overall service experience—must be flawless and continually innovated upon,” Pinto says. “The Michelin Guide evaluates both our ability to maintain consistency and to evolve, all while retaining the essence that makes The Bastion Collection’s dining experiences extraordinary. This is a responsibility that Executive Chef James Friedberg and his team at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Miami, Florida’s only 2 Michelin-star restaurant, uphold with pride and dedication. Similarly, Le Jardinier Miami consistently demonstrates the same level of commitment, ensuring that every dining experience reflects the highest standards of culinary excellence, set forth by The Bastion Collection’s Culinary Director Alain Verzeroli along with Chef de Cuisine Christian Pasco Diaz.”

He adds that the awards are far from overblown and have serious implications. “The recognition they bring is a powerful affirmation of our commitment to delivering unparalleled dining experiences, making every effort unquestionably worthwhile,” Pinto says. “These accolades attract a discerning clientele who seek the very best in dining, enhancing our global prestige and drawing attention from around the world. The stars have not only increased our visibility but also set a new standard internally, driving us to continuously innovate and excel. This recognition supports our expansion efforts while reinforcing our standing as a leader in the fine dining industry.”

And what of the pressure? Pinto sees it as a driving force for continuous improvement. “We foster a culture of teamwork and resilience, where every staff member is empowered to contribute to our shared success,” Pinto continues. “While the pressure can be intense, especially when striving to meet the expectations of the Michelin Guide, we counterbalance it with strong support systems, ongoing mentorship, and a focus on creating a positive work environment.”

Michelin star restaurants do it all, all the time.

Check out our Michelin star guide as well as features on Michelin star-based travel and the cities with the most Michelin stars. Now get out there and eat and see what all the fuss—and hard work—is about.

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Mark Stock
Mark Stock is a writer from Portland, Oregon. He fell into wine during the Recession and has been fixated on the stuff since…
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