Whether you’re just starting out and buying your first suit or starting over and rebuilding your wardrobe, you have to go through the buying process. Sometimes, it can feel overwhelming as you get sold on “Super1 180” or “bespoke” when you have no idea what French the salesperson is throwing at you. Industry jargon is your worst enemy in that situation.
However, it is a must when you start shopping that you understand what you’re getting into and what you’re going to run into, so you come home with the right suit or suit for you. Whether you’re wearing a suit every day or just buying something for that special occasion, use this handy collection of tips to make the process easier. Keep reading to find out how to buy a suit.
Before heading out
Before you go shopping, you should familiarize yourself with the lingo and the industry so you can at least stay with a salesperson while they try to get you to buy the right suit. You don’t want to answer questions you don’t understand, agree to things you don’t grasp, and walk away with something you don’t expect. So here are some things to remember and understand when you head to the store.
- Nested vs. separate: When someone in the biz asks if you are looking for a nested suit or a separate, it means two different kinds of shopping. A nested suit means one jacket is made with a corresponding pair of pants. This set comes with a drop at an average of 6 inches. That means if you are a 46R in the coat, the pants will likely come in a 40. Don’t panic; the pants fit differently than your jeans and can be taken in if needed. Suit separates are mass-produced products that match. So there is a run of jackets made with the same material as a run of pants (sometimes vests, too). That way, if you’re a swimmer and are a 44R but have a smaller waist than a 38, you can opt for the separate.
- Suit trimming: This may not be something you hear when you go, but just in case, you should know that the trimming refers to the extras on the suit, like a ticket pocket, functional buttons, pick stitching, etc. These things will mostly come into play if you go with a made-to-measure suit.
- Suit lapels: The various kinds of suit lapels make a difference, so you should know them. Check out this guide on types of suit lapels to get a handle on it.
- Off-the-rack vs. made-to-measure: This is another thing you should know the difference between. And of course, we have covered these differences before for you.
1. Don’t get sold
Do you remember that scene in Pretty Woman when Julia Roberts walks into an upscale boutique and is shamed out of the store because they didn’t feel like she could afford to shop there? Well, this happens to men, too. A few decades ago, men’s clothing retailers could succeed despite being rude to their customers. Today, online reviews make it difficult for jerks to do well; there’s no reason to tolerate a salesperson who seems impatient, rude, or snobby.
Instead, go to a store where you feel comfortable shopping. When a salesperson approaches you, pay attention to what they are saying. Are they asking questions or making statements? Good salespeople know that listening is the number one trait for success. Knowing what you need is how to make you happy. If they tell you what you need instead of asking questions, you will almost certainly be dissatisfied with the outcome. What if you don’t know what you need? That’s OK because the salesperson should ask questions to help you discover that along with them.
2. Consider your suit-wearing habits
It’s OK to walk into a suit store without a clear vision. Still, it’s a good idea to have some idea of what you want — do you want a suit for a particular occasion, or are you looking for a reliable outfit that will work for just about any formal situation? Maybe you’re looking for a workhorse suit that will withstand hundreds of wears over three to five years.
The truth is that every man has a different need when he walks into a store. If he’s the guy who needs to get started with multiple suits, then he is likely looking for maximum versatility without dropping every dollar he has. That means he’s looking to start with the four-legged stool. If he is the guy who has been around for a while and has all the basics, he may be looking to either replace a suit that’s worn out or he’s looking for a deeper cut — a special suit to deepen his wardrobe.
Then there are the special occasion guys; either they are getting married or their friend or family member is, and they need a suit for the occasion. Know which guy you are before you walk in so you have a general direction to point the salesperson.
Pro-tip: If you are the special occasion guy and don’t have any suits, you should look at the basics of the four-legged stool to get a leg up on the process when you inevitably start looking to purchase a new suit.
3. Fit over material
A pushy salesperson may try to convince you to buy some uber-fancy material that bumps the total cost up a few hundred dollars. We recommend skipping the premium fabric options and using reliable, affordable, timeless wool for your first or second suit. Most suit stores will have their “Signature” or “Executive” lines that will be cashmere, silk, or high-quality wool.
A salesperson may throw out numbers like Super 120, 130, or higher. A lot goes into those super numbers determining the suit’s overall quality, but here is a quick, down-and-dirty rule to help you navigate that conversation. The higher the number, the thinner and softer the thread. This is exceptionally comfortable and luxurious, but every press and every wear breaks down the fibers. So the day-in-day-out wears are for the lower numbers. Here is a friendly guide to keep in mind.
- Everyday office wear: Super 110-130
- Big meeting or interview: Super 140-150
- Special occasion: Super 180+
Rather than worrying about materials, you should focus your time and energy on getting the right fit. The right fit can be the difference between a great-looking suit and an ill-fitting disaster.
4. Navy and charcoal are gold
What is the one suit that every man should have? It used to be a black suit, perfect for weddings, funerals, and after-p.m. events. But that has changed. They are no longer appropriate for the office or many of those one-off events that require a suit.
Today, navy and charcoal are where it’s at. These two suits can be combined with almost any shirt and tie combination you can think of and can even be combined together with one jacket and the other suit’s pants. That gives you four suit combinations, and if you have four versatile shirts and four ties, the options feel endless.
5. Off-the-rack suits are just fine
If you don’t have the funds to drop $1,000-plus on a tailor-made suit, don’t. Going off the rack is a perfectly respectable way to procure a new suit. A budget suit that fits well at a few hundred dollars will work fine if you aren’t wearing it often. That said, you shouldn’t expect much from fused suits (glued instead of stitched together). Buying a high-quality suit off the rack and having a tailor adjust it to your contours is an excellent compromise between buying a fused suit and a 100% custom suit.
When shopping for a high-quality, off-the-rack suit, pay attention to these brands, which will give you the most bang for your buck. The prices can range all over the place, so find one that fits your budget.
6. Every man should have one bespoke/made-to-measure suit
If you have the means, you will do well to have a suit made especially for you. Again, it’s all about fit. You aren’t a mannequin, so you shouldn’t buy a suit made for one. When a suit fits just right, you can feel it — not just in terms of comfort but confidence as well.
The price ranges for a made-to-measure suit are all over the board. While there used to be a little more budget-exclusive options, new brands are constantly popping up that streamline the service and introduce competitive pricing. From as low as $500 to as much as you want to spend is what you are looking at. At the low end, you can wear a suit perfectly tailored to you over the next 10 years at only $50 or so per wear. That’s not an outrageous amount when you consider that you’ll look perfect while wearing your bespoke suit.
Also, you shouldn’t worry about gaining or losing weight — it’s not hard for a tailor to “take in” a loose garment or “ease” a tight one.
Be a repeat customer
The truth is, you will need more than one suit in your lifetime. Even if you rarely wear a suit, you must purchase replacements for the one you already have or different ones for various events. Once you have found a salesperson you trust, they will become just as valuable as a mechanic you believe in, saving you thousands over time. When you need to buy a new suit, knowing the place to go will save you all the headaches.
Like anything else, it can get overwhelming fast if you’re trying to buy a suit without any preparation. That could scare you away from the suit-buying experience altogether. Then you are that guy wearing khaki pants and a button-down Oxford shirt to every event, regardless of formality. Follow these tips from a proven professional, and you will feel like an expert in no time.
