A man’s suit is a cherished possession. It can be a status symbol, giving him a feeling of authority in a world where he feels forgotten. It can be a confidence boost. When he puts it on, he can feel the attention and how people change how they treat him. Then there is the sentimentality of it. Maybe he wore it on the day of his wedding, his first day at the law firm, or when he asked for that business loan that got him started. In any case, the suit is the garment that all men must understand. Whether you are an event-based suit owner who needs it only for certain moments or the guy who wears a suit every day, there is one suit that you need in your collection: the double-breasted suit.
While it may seem like just another suit to the layperson, there are big differences between the double-breasted suit and the everyday single-breasted suit. You can go in blind and try your best, or you can keep reading, and we’ll give you everything you need to know about the two options.
Single vs. double
When it comes to choosing a suit, most men opt for the single-breasted style because it is the most commonly seen. This style is most often worn by British superspy James Bond, legal savant Harvey Specter, and any president of the last half-century. But a double-breasted option stands out for a lot of reasons that the single-breasted suit doesn’t have, causing it to stand out while the latter blends in to a crowd.
The biggest differences are:
- The buttons on a single-breasted sit in a straight line connecting the two sides of the jacket and come in 1, 2, and 3-button varieties. The double-breasted suit has 4 and 6-button options in a box pattern designed to wrap the two sides of the jacket over the torso.
- While the lapels of the two options are interchangeable, the single-breasted suit typically comes with a notch lapel unless there is a reason to widen the look of the shoulders with a peak lapel. The double-breasted suit almost exclusively comes with a peak lapel. The reason for this is that a DB focuses on the top instead of the bottom of the suit.
- The double-breasted jacket is often cut shorter in an effort to accomplish the top-heavy look.
Things to pay attention to
Of course, there are major differences between the two suits, but that isn’t where the differences end. You need to pay attention to other aspects of the suit that will also affect how you wear it. There are two major things to look at when picking up a DB suit and getting it tailored perfectly for you.
The first is in the jacket’s tailoring. While it is more traditionally a looser fit, the newer look ensures the torso’s tailoring is a little tighter to accentuate the shoulders. Don’t let that intimidate you if you haven’t been hitting the gym this year; the wrap-around look does a good job of acting like a good pair of Spanx.
The second difference is in the pants. Cuffed pants have been out for a long time. While the old is new this year, and some older styles are coming back, traditionally, all DB suits have cuffs in their pants. This adds to the vintage feel and the style of the double-breasted.
How to wear it
Our favorites
While there are rules to wearing suits that are the same regardless of single-breasted or double-breasted, there are a few guidelines for the latter that will help you nail the presentation. Keep in mind that these are merely guidelines, so there is no need to adhere to these religiously. As you go, wear what is comfortable for you.
- The suit cut itself stands out on its own, so there is no need to overdo the shirt and tie with bright colors and patterns. Let the suit do the talking.
- Always keep the buttons done. While you can wear a single-breasted suit open in more casual situations, a DB hanging open is a lot of extra fabric, making it look sloppy.
- Don’t be shy about wearing the jacket as a blazer. Originally, blazers were all DB, and these suit coats are the perfect substitute that not only dresses up a casual look but also honors the nautical roots.
Of course, we wouldn’t give you all that information without pointing you in the right direction for where to find the best of the best. Here are our three favorites and why you should invest.
Polo Soft Pinstripe 3-Piece Suit: Simple, classic, and easily the most striking on the market, a double-breasted suit from fashion icon Ralph Lauren gives your wardrobe a huge boost. This chalk stripe number adds a layer of class that others miss.
The Black Tux Ink Blue Linen: Summer is a time when the heat goes through the roof. And while the traditional wisdom will tell you not to wear a double-breasted suit due to the wrap effect trapping the heat. But with this linen option from The Black Tux, you won’t need to worry about that, and you can look fantastic regardless. Also, a bonus is no extra trip to the tailor as the pants are already finished.
Suit Supply Havana: In most cases, you don’t need to go flashy with a double-breasted suit since they already stand out on their own. However, this dark orange piece adds another layer of style. A shirt and shoes in basics would be suggested in an effort to let the suit speak on its own.
