If unique presentations and innovative ingredients in Chinese-inspired cocktails captures your interest, Wonderland is a place you must try in New York City. A modern Sichuan gastrobar, Wonderland is the creation of Miki Niu, Lok Yee Yim, and Chef Peter He of the Michelin-starred restaurant CHILI. With original cocktails and Sichuan-influenced food, Wonderland is a one-of-a-kind cocktail bar.
We spoke with Wonderland’s co-owner and bar manager Zhouyu Tso to learn about how the creative drink menu. “Creating cocktails involves storytelling,” said Tso. “Wonderland is designed to transport guests into a world of imagination, and we tried to build a place that offers an escape.”
Highlighting Chinese culture and presentation
A major aspect of Wonderland’s drink menu is the influence of Chinese cuisine. “The starting point is typically a concept, such as a cultural reference or a specific flavor profile,” explains Tso. “We draw inspiration from literature, art, food, history, and personal experience. We then choose a base spirit that aligns with the theme.”
Because of this cultural influence, expect to find ingredients like cumin, Sichuan peppercorns, ginger, and tea in many of the cocktail creations at Wonderland. And it’s not just flavors that Wonderland aims to showcase. On our visit to Wonderland, we were intrigued by the fact that each drink was a highly visual, multi-sensory experience.
“Each cocktail is designed to tell a part of the Wonderland story,” explains Tso. “Drawing inspiration from whimsical and fantastical elements. Visual components help to immerse guests in this narrative. They also add an element of surprise. Unexpected garnishes, unique glassware, or interactive elements can evoke a magical and curious feeling. A visually appealing cocktail enhances the overall dining experience, making it not just a drink but a work of art.”
Creating modern Chinese cocktails and how to pair them
While the drinks at Wonderland can appear unconventional, there’s a playful feel to the drinks. The flavors, however, can be layered and complex; Tso likes experimenting with chili, vanilla, or tea-infused spirits in cocktail creations. One flavor that appears in several offerings at Wonderland is a savory component. The best example of this is the Cumin Eileen, which contains plum, cumin, ginger, tomato, and onion. This drink is directly inspired by lamb and cumin, a popular dish in Sichuan, China. In Tso’s opinion, this savory cocktail is all about the right balance.
“Balancing a savory element in a cocktail, such as in the Cumin Eileen, requires careful consideration of several factors,” explains Tso. “Base spirit — choose a base spirit that complements the savory element. For cumin, tequila or mezcal work well with earthy, smoky flavors. Supporting flavors — incorporate ingredients that enhance and balance the savory note. Citrus juices, like lime or lemon, add acidity to brighten the drink.”
This balance also carries over to food pairings. Tso recommends pairing savory and spice-forward cocktails like the Cumin Eileen with Wonderland’s Peppercorn Squid. The cumin in the drink is a natural pairing with the grilled squid. Of course, it’s not all about heavier spices. For something more delicate, such as the Wild Perfume (vodka, vetiver, vanilla bean, sandalwood, black tea, peppercorn, green cardamom, orange, vermouth, lemon), Tso recommends something light, such as a Chinese-style cucumber salad. The floral flavor of the drink is perfect with the refreshing crunch of cucumbers.
