Fall for These Heavier Rosé Wines

By Mark Stock Published April 20, 2021

There’s a seasonal myth out there that states that pink wine is just for the spring and summer. I’m here to debunk that, with the help of some heftier, more extracted rosé wines that can not just outlast the seasonal box the category is put in, but go the whole year strong.

This is not to take anything away from the wonderful rosés of southern France. Provence, and Bandol that in particular have practically mastered the art of the salmon-hued dry-as-a-bone wine perfect for all things al fresco. This piece exists to remind you that rosé wine, like IPA or Sauvignon Blanc or Mezcal, is a broad realm indeed. In other words, not all faintly pink wines err on the side of being delicate.

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A winemaker can change the game dramatically depending on the grape variety she selects or the cellar approach she opts for. Tempranillo, for example, can make for a bit bigger, slightly smoky rosé great with conservas. Pinot Noir, known for its lighter body and ideal for a more standard issue rosé, can be all the more concentrated with extended maceration times. There’s even White Zin for those wanting something a little more candied in nature.

Perhaps none of this should be a surprise. We’ve already seen rosé burst out of its Americanized corner where it once catered to primarily women having brunch. We know it to be more than its former stereotyped definition, appealing to all types and able to show plenty of presence on the palate. Just as it can be light and fleeting and ideal for the hottest days of the year, rosé can also be plump and ready for fall and even winter dishes.

Here are some rosé wines on the heavier side, here to accompany you and yours as we shift from a scorching summer to a refreshing autumn.

Hazelfern Cellars Winter Rosé

Image used with permission by copyright holder

Made from predominately Pinot Noir and a pinch of Barbera, this rosé looks like cranberry juice. The darker hue matches the darker fruit flavors and the wine manages to be both refreshing and full in terms of body. Made in Portland, this wine tends to get barrel fermented and aged for nearly a year, yielding something that’s ideal alongside root vegetables, roasted squash, even pot roast.

Fetherston Dolcetto Rosé

Fetherston Dolcetto Rosé — Image used with permission by copyright holder

This pink wine out of Australia is deceptive, in a good way. The color suggests summer fresh but the flavors are decidedly heavier, showing spice, berry, and peppery notes. The alcohol content is moderate and the slight brooding nature of Dolcetto still manages to come through.

Gundlach Bundschu Tempranillo Rosé

Gundlach Bundschu Tempranillo Rosé — Image used with permission by copyright holder

Made from Sonoma fruit, this rosé is delicious no matter what the calendar is telling you. It’s full of fruit notes but also shows a certain firmness, with noticeable earthy components. Instead of pressing the fruit right away, there are 2-3 days of skin contact, affording a darker color and even a little tannin and tea-like flavors.

Leah Jørgensen Cellars Rose of Cabernet Franc

Leah Jørgensen Cellars Rose of Cabernet Franc — Image used with permission by copyright holder

Another outstanding Oregon option, this rosé from Leah Jørgensen has lots of depth, showing wonderful savory notes. There’s a bit of woodsy-ness too, which does great with lightly-smoked fare. It’s so delicious I’m patiently waiting for more winemakers to warm up to this great use of a classic grape variety. This one in particular sports a really alluring umami component.

Former Contributor

Mark Stock is a writer from Portland, Oregon. He fell into wine during the Recession and has been fixated on the stuff since…

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Food & Drink

You won’t find claret wine in the store, but you’ve probably already had some

A corrupted name with a cool history

Red wine being poured into a glass

Perhaps you’re into period English movies (like, say, anything by Jane Austen). If so, you’ve noticed that when it’s time to break out the good stuff (you know, the bottle from the cellar that needs to be decanted), it’s always a wine called "claret." While I do enjoy the occasional Jane Austen movie, I’ve been a more consistent fan of wine -- but for the life of me, I couldn’t figure out what this claret stuff was, why it was so beloved, and where I could get my hands on it. The short answer is that "claret" is basically British slang for red wines from Bordeaux. The long answer involves ancient Romans, Eleanor of Aquitaine, English corruption of the French language, the Hundred Years’ War, and a dry, brick-red rosé that might not yet be on your radar.

The Romans, great champions of the grape themselves, did bring viticulture to the Bordeaux region -- though, to be honest, they were much more interested in the trading potential of the huge natural harbor located in the Gironde River estuary. Once the empire collapsed, so did those trade routes from the Mediterranean to northern Europe. Ultimately, Bordeaux (along with the rest of southwest France) became part of the large, powerful, and independent duchy of Aquitaine. And this is where our claret wine story begins.
Bordeaux was English for centuries

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Helpful wine terminology so you sound like you know what you’re talking about

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White wine in a glass

There’s always something to be learned in the vast world of wine. Knowing a bit of the language will keep you from getting lost in translation and potentially buying something you might not like. Plus, you’ll sound informed the next time you’re in a tasting room or perusing a bottle shop, online or in person.
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But first, let's start with wine terminology fundamentals. Someone has poured you a glass of wine, and told you what the varietal is -- maybe it's a malbec or a chardonnay or a blend of different grapes (more on varietals later). What's the first thing you notice? The color -- is the wine butter yellow or brick red? Next comes the nose: What do you smell? Citrus, or perhaps dried cherries?

Now, take your first sip. What's the mouthfeel? Is the wine light or heavy? What other sensations are there besides the taste? If it's a red, there could be tannins, which impart a sandpapery feeling like apple peels or strong black tea. Conversely, white wine's structure usually comes from acidity, which can present like lemon peel or yuzu. Lastly, notice the finish -- does the wine linger on the palate or get out quickly? How do the flavors resolve?
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Food & Drink

A beginner’s guide to sweet red wines: Why they’re more exciting than you think

It's not just for red meat anymore

Glass of red wine with fruit and ice on table

When it comes to wine, it's really more about the exceptions than the rules. You could be forgiven for thinking that a glass of red should be robust like a Bordeaux or earthy like a California cab. At any rate, it should be "dry," right? Oh, no, budding wine enthusiast. I'm here to tell you about some red wines that are literally toothsome. It all started when I had my first glass of a fizzy, sweet Lambrusco, along with an Italian dessert pastry featuring dark chocolate and burnt meringue, and life got noticeably better.

Let's start with the basics: What makes a wine sweet? The answer is simple -- the amount of residual sugar left after fermentation. Grapes tend to be sweet, after all, and yeast eats sugar to produce (among other things) alcohol. By stalling the fermentation process (or back sweetening the result), a wine can taste sweet, regardless of whether the grape varietal is red or white. (There's also a thing called "noble rot," scientifically known as botrytis cinerea. Although it's a fungus, it imparts a distinctive sweetness to wines and therefore we love it.) Let's visit the wonderful world of sweet red wine.
Sparkling sweet reds: It's a thing