Zenith still reaches for perfection with 160 year celebration

Bringing back the cherished calibre 135

By Mark D McKee Published April 2, 2025

Zenith GFJ hero — Zenith

When Watches and Wonders takes off, there is always a collection of brands fans rush to see what new things they can look forward to. Zenith has always been at the forefront of the industry ever since the founder climbed a mountain and was a inspired by the peak of the sky, where he got the name Zenith. Now, the Zenith 160th Anniversary collection brings back the honored calibre 135 in a collection of watches, one even named after the founder himself, Georges Favre-Jacot.

“Few movements in watchmaking history have achieved the level of chronometric excellence and recognition as the calibre 135,” says Benoît de Clerck, CEO of ZENITH WATCHES. “More than just a technical achievement, it became a true icon of precision. Bringing it back for our 160th anniversary is about honoring this legacy while sharing it with a new generation of collectors. With the G.F.J., we have reimagined this legendary movement, not simply as a nod to the past, but as a way to share a defining part of its heritage while offering a contemporary interpretation that resonates with today’s spirit, and we are deeply proud of it.”

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This collection has four drops: the Chronomaster Sport 160th Anniversary Edition, Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Anniversary Edition, and the Pilot Big Date Flyback 160th Anniversary Edition. These represent the best of Zenith’s past. But the CFJ is the crowning jewel of the new collection and a signal of the brand’s future.

“We decided to bring back the legendary calibre 135 as a celebration of our 160th anniversary and pay tribute to our Maison’s rich watchmaking heritage,” says Romain Marietta, CPO of ZENITH WATCHES. “The exclusive 2022 edition, developed with Kari Voutilainen and Phillips, reignited interest among collectors and enthusiasts, highlighting the historical significance of this calibre for ZENITH. Building on that enthusiasm, we wanted to bring back this emblematic movement, not simply as a nod to the past but as a way to share a defining part of its legacy while offering a contemporary interpretation that resonates with today’s spirit.”

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Mark is a full-time freelance writer and men's coach. He spent time as a style consultant and bespoke suit salesman before…

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Tissot Seastar 1000 shrinks to perfect everyday proportions

Size revolution: Tissot's 38mm seastar transforms dive watch wearability

Tissot seastar 38mm blue background

The watch industry is seeing a return to smaller sizes, and Tissot has responded by introducing a new version of the Seastar 1000 Quartz Chronograph. The Swiss brand has reduced its dive watch from 45.5mm to 38mm, transforming what was once a large sport watch into a comfortable daily accessory.
This reduction in size reflects the market’s shift toward vintage-inspired looks and easier wear. While many companies are gradually shrinking their watch sizes, Tissot’s approach makes a bold change to the appearance of its dive chronograph.
The original 45.5mm Seastar was designed with professional divers in mind, as a larger case is easier to read underwater. However, entry-level dive watches like the Seastar rarely see professional diving use. Instead, they serve as everyday watches, offering durability and water resistance for work or travel.
Tissot has preserved the design elements that defined earlier models—a 60-minute rotating bezel, square markers, and contrasting hands. The change in size required adjustments to the numbers on the outer seconds track and the sub-dial counters, resulting in a look that’s closer to mid-century dive watches.
The 38mm steel case offers 300 meters of water resistance, thanks to screw-down pushers and a crown—engineering that stands out at a price under $600. The 12-hour chronograph function allows for precise timing, displayed on the sub-dials: the 30-minute counter at ten o’clock, the 12-hour counter at two o’clock, and running seconds at six o’clock. A date window is positioned at four o’clock.
Tissot offers six color combinations. Silicone strap options include a white dial with a white bezel, a gold case with a turquoise bezel and sunray dial, and an all-black design. Steel bracelet versions feature an all-black look, a black bezel with a gray sunray dial, and a two-tone option with a black bezel and gray sunray dial.
The Swiss quartz chronograph movement is reliable. Super-LumiNova on the hour and minute hands, as well as the markers, ensures visibility in low light. Tissot prioritizes practicality over flashy features, reinforcing its status among affordable watch brands that compete with established names like Seiko and Citizen.
This change transforms the Seastar from a pure tool watch into an everyday timepiece—offering robust water resistance and time-tracking features without feeling oversized on smaller wrists. The price of $550–$595 upholds Tissot’s promise of value, while delivering Swiss quality and full water sport capability.
For those seeking the look of a capable dive watch in a modern, wearable size, the 38mm Seastar 1000 Chronograph is a welcome evolution. It fits today’s preferences for comfort and style without sacrificing function.

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