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All new Seiko Prospex is a ‘faithful recreation’ of a Seiko watches classic from 1968

What's old is new again - because it's just new

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Seiko Prospex Land Mechanical GMT
Seiko / Seiko

When it comes to watchmaking, few brands possess the heritage and reverence for horological history as Seiko watches. With its latest offering, the Seiko Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411 Limited Edition, Seiko takes a bold step back in time to celebrate the 55th anniversary of its first GMT watch with a rotating bezel. But this is not just any retro-inspired piece; it’s a faithful recreation of the iconic 1968 Navigator Timer, and it’s poised to make a splash in the world of watches for men.

Before we go into the revival of a 1968 classic, let’s first explore what makes Seiko Prospex unique. Prospex, short for “Professional Specifications,” was created by Seiko in the 1960s when the company intended to tackle the deep blue sea. They set out to design watches that could resist the most dangerous underwater circumstances as well as the most strenuous outdoor experiences. As a result, the Seiko Prospex range was created.

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A touch of vintage elegance

As we delve deeper into the details, the design choices become evident. The SPB411 retains the compact dimensions of the original Navigator Timer, measuring 38.5mm in diameter, and 12.6mm in thickness. The crown remains at the traditional 4 o’clock position, a signature of the Navigator Timer. The rotating bezel, marked with a 24-hour scale, is adorned with an engraved design and features a luminous pearl at the zero position. Seiko has not merely recreated the watch but also improved its water resistance, now rated to an impressive 100 meters, compared to the original’s 70 meters.

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The dial of the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411 mirrors the aesthetics of the 1968 Navigator Timer. A sunray gray finish provides a vintage charm that’s both elegant and understated, while at the center of the dial, a quartet of hands steals the show. However, it’s the distinctive short arrow-tipped red 24-hour hand that catches the eye. The SPB411 stands out as a “caller GMT” watch, allowing the wearer to display the time in three different places. The independently adjustable GMT hand, combined with the rotating 24-hour bezel, offers a unique and functional way to track multiple time zones.

Seiko Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411 Limited Edition
Seiko

A brand’s evolution

One notable change in this new iteration is the absence of the Navigator Timer name. Seiko has chosen to embrace a new identity for the watch, naming it the “Prospex Land Mechanical GMT.” While the Navigator Timer is a cherished piece of Seiko’s history, the brand’s evolution is evident in this decision. The Seiko logo on the dial has been adapted to reflect the shorter height of the original model, adding to the vintage appeal.

The watch is also functional, with a date window at 3 o’clock, blocky hour and minute hands, and lume (LumiBrite) markings on the curved black minute track, ensuring readability under any lighting situation. A box-shaped sapphire crystal protects the dial, offering a layer of robustness and scratch resistance.

A tribute to tradition

The caseback of the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT further emphasizes the tribute to the inaugural Navigator Timer. Its horseshoe-shaped design and individual watch serial number engraving evoke nostalgia and celebrate Seiko’s rich history. The heart of this timepiece beats with the Caliber 6R54 automatic movement, which operates at a frequency of 21,600vph (3 Hz) and offers a generous power reserve of 72 hours.

The new Prospex Land Mechanical GMT features a five-link steel bracelet, which is reminiscent of the 1968 edition. The bracelet has a three-fold clasp with a handy push-button release.

A limited edition collectible

With a limited production of just 4,000 pieces worldwide, the Seiko Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411 is a true collector’s item. It is priced at $1,500 USD, making it an accessible yet exclusive luxury watch. The timepiece is set to hit select retail locations in November 2023.

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Sarah Veldman
Sarah Veldman
Freelance Writer
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