Skip to main content

Mezcal and the Magic of Oaxaca, Mexico

It is dusk in Oaxaca and after a well-spent hour sipping local mezcals in the Mezcaloteca Bar, I saunter out into the narrow, cobblestone streets, belly warm, only to be swept up by a candle lit, musical parade of unfathomable local enthusiasm. Horns blast and women in colorful skirts spin onwards in percussive progression to the town square where other equally exuberant processions merge into a carnival of hundreds gathering under a full moon at the base of the vendor-lined town square and the beautiful La Iglesia de Santo Domingo.

It is an unrivaled and unexpected experience of mezcal-fueled enthusiasm unique to the spirited, historic city of Oaxaca, Mexico. Nestled in the Sierras in central Mexico, Oaxaca is a city with a rich cultural history and incomparable culinary scene deeply intertwined with mezcal, an agave-based liquor made only in Oaxaca.

Recommended Videos

“Oaxaca gives context to mezcal and mezcal gives context to Oaxaca,” says Fausto Zapata, owner of El Silencio, a small batch mezcal made in Oaxaca and found across the United States. “Oaxaca is the creator of mezcal and happens to be just as magical as the spirit itself.”

In Situ
In Situ Image used with permission by copyright holder

The cobblestone streets of downtown Oaxaca are lined with Mezcalerias. These are small, usually family-owned bars like the Mezcaloteca Bar where my evening began. The proprietors of these Mezcalerias swell with pride for their regional spirit and often serve their family’s own brand; a method of preparation that might go back more than a century. In addition to the intimate experience at Mezcaloteca, be sure to hit up Mezcalogia, In Situ, Txalaparta Bar and El Distilado. Each offer a slightly different variation of regional flavors. The bartenders, often also the owners, will share with you their spirit’s rich history and will guide you towards finding a mezcal to fit your taste. Bartenders have a robust knowledge of the flavors and textures of the mezcal they pour and rarely is there anything but mezcal on the drink menu. In fact, order a vodka soda, or worse a tequila, and you might find your Oaxaca experience at said Mezcaleria abruptly ended.

Mezcal is certainly one of Oaxaca’s most defining cultural characteristics but the smoky intoxicant is far from the only reason to visit Oaxaca.To sustain a full day in Oaxaca, one must augment Mezcal-tasting with other experiences and activities, of which there are many.

Eat

Perhaps nowhere in Mexico does the cuisine shine quite like in the city of Oaxaca. And with several of the world’s most notable chefs opening restaurants there, that culinary tradition continues to expand. The city is most well-known for its moles, Oaxaca cheese, and crickets (try them… you’ll be fine). And, while one must experience those staples in some way, shape or form, these are the restaurants you can’t miss.

Casa Oaxaca
Casa Oaxaca Image used with permission by copyright holder

Chef Alejandro Ruiz’s Casa Oaxaca offers simple yet sophisticated regional dishes. Ruiz prides himself on robust flavors made with minimal ingredients. Another of Oaxaca’s most innovative (and daring) restaurants is chef Jose Manuel Banos Rodriguez’s Pitiona. If you thought snacking on crickets sounded daunting, get a load of this menu. Chicatana (ant) mole, goat-hip stew (amazing) and beef tongue in chili adobo topped with potato foam are among the favorites. You’ll leave this world-class restaurant feeling not only pleasantly satiated but brave. To eat like the locals, try Zandunga. It has a local feel, uses local ingredients and features a variety of grilled meats, a delicious black mole and usually offers mole specials that change daily.

Play

Visit the Santa Domingo Church and Cultural Center. Once a monastery, this church is one of the city’s hubs and features stunning immaculately landscaped courtyards, a robust art collection and artifacts from the ancient city of Monte Alban. The ruins of Monte Alban, themselves, located six miles outside Oaxaca City, make up a remarkable UNESCO World Heritage site and is a must see if you are staying in Oaxaca.

Monte Alban
Monte Alban Image used with permission by copyright holder

And while Santo Domingo and Monte Alban highlights historic and cultural aspect of Oaxaca, the Museum of Contemporary Art of Oaxaca accents the city’s flare for the avant-garde. Housed in an 18th century home the museum features work from some of Mexico’s premiere contemporary artists.

No trip to Oaxaca City would be complete with a stop at La Plaza de la Constitucion. The city’s center for more than five hundred years and home to most municipal buildings. La Plaza de la Constitucion is also home to the Benito Juárez Market where visitors can find locally made crafts and sample fruits, cheeses and baked good from local farmers.

Stay

The Hotel Quinta Real is not just a hotel but a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Originally constructed in 1576 as a convent, this stunning hotel retains its original and recently restored frescoes and tile floors. Not only is The Hotel Quinta Real rich in history but offers some of the best accommodations in Oaxaca City. Luxurious rooms are centered on vibrant courtyards and offer patios looking out onto the city’s bustling streets.

The Hotel Quinta Real
The Hotel Quinta Real Image used with permission by copyright holder

Remember, this is most important: no matter where you are, don’t forget the mezcal. Its good. Really good. And if a parade comes along, join it. You never know where it might lead.

Matt Payne
Former Digital Trends Contributor
Matt Payne is an Oklahoma-based travel photographer, writer, public speaker, and filmmaker. Matt has covered Rwanda, Alaska…
London’s Twenty8 NoMad makes hotel dining feel cool again
This Hilton hotel restaurant might be London’s best-kept secret
Twenty8 Nomad

Hotel restaurants don’t exactly have the best rep. They’re often the place you end up, not the place you’re excited to go. Bland décor, overpriced Caesar salads, and a vibe that screams “conference break” more than “let’s make a night of it.” But every now and then, a hotel spot completely flips the script. Enter Twenty8 NoMad, the stylish restaurant tucked inside the equally chic NoMad London, a Hilton hotel nestled right across from the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden.

I was in London on vacation when I decided to check it out, and let’s just say, I wasn’t prepared for how cool this place actually is. Located in the heart of the 91-room boutique hotel, Twenty8 NoMad brings a fresh, upscale twist to classic New York cuisine, served up in a space that feels more like a trendy Manhattan loft than your average hotel dining room.

Read more
Study reveals the top celebrity-owned restaurants, and Ramsay didn’t make the cut
The best celeb-owned restaurant in North America isn’t who you’d expect
Adelina

When it comes to dining at celebrity-owned restaurants, star power doesn’t always equal stellar food. A new study by CasinoReviews.net ranked the best celebrity-owned restaurants across the U.S. and Canada, and the results may surprise you. Despite their big names, Gordon Ramsay, Sandra Bullock, and Travis Barker didn’t even crack the top 20.

The study scored restaurants based on Tripadvisor ratings, the percentage of positive reviews (4 stars or higher), average cost of a two-course meal and drink, and Instagram hashtag popularity. The goal? To spotlight which celebrity-backed spots actually deliver high-quality food and experiences, and which might be coasting on fame alone.

Read more
Discover the magic of Orcas Island: the ultimate PNW getaway
Visiting the San Juan Islands in May: How to make the most of your summer
Sarah Joseph at Orcas Island

One of the most exciting adventures that you can experience while visiting the PNW is a trip to the San Juan Islands. Famous for its lush greenery, picturesque views, and most importantly, orcas, this area holds a special place in my heart. This past May, my husband and I had the opportunity to stop by the Worldmark Deer Harbor hotel for a glorious two nights. Here's everything we did to make the most of our trip.
Getting to Orcas Island

My husband and I drove from the Seattle area up to Anacortes port, where we took a ferry up to Friday Harbor. Do yourself a favor and make sure that you get a reservation for the ferry, since there's no guarantee that you'll be able to sneak on in the stand-by line. This must be done two or three months in advance. Since we didn't have a reservation, we ended up having to wait in line an extra three hours before making it onto the ferry, so it ended up being a pretty late night for us. The ferry to Friday Harbor is a good eighty minutes or so since it made a few stops to other islands before it got to our final destination. Fortunately, the rest of the trip went without hiccups!

Read more