Skip to main content

How West Coast Wildfires Led to Smoke-Tinged Beer and Wine in Oregon

There’s been a lot of talk recently about wildfire smoke and the drinks business. And for good reason, as the lingering haze can negatively impact everything from wine grapes to beer hops. Climate change dictates all ⏤ including booze and its many farmed ingredients ⏤ but when is a little smoke a good thing?

Late 2018 was a particularly intense one in terms of wildfires. Throughout much of summer and fall, much of the West Coast displayed the fuzzy orange tinge we tend to associate with Blade Runner. Some California wineries shut down completely, and in an event that will live in infamy, growers in Oregon had their fruit rejected due to alleged smoke taint (the poorly-worded term to describe negative impacts associated with too much smoke in the wine grapes), only to have a band of Oregon producers start their own label, Oregon Solidarity, in response. 

Oregon Solidarity

Breweries like Sierra Nevada made special beers to aid firefighters in their seemingly endless battle. But in areas where the smoke wasn’t as thick or didn’t stick around as long, it offered an interesting new flavor profile to the resulting wines and ales.

Recommended Videos

“We had smoke-infused peaches from the upper Hood River Valley that went into our Peach ‘n’ Brett,” says Dave Logsdon, longtime brewer and founder of Wy’East Labs in the Columbia River Gorge. “It had a nice subtle smokey effect on the beer, probably due to only a small amount of contact with the fires.”

At Teutonic Wine Company in Portland, winemaker Barnaby Tuttle saw opportunity in smoke-tinged fruit. He’s dubbed his creation Rauchwein, as a nod to the famous German beer style that uses wood-smoked malts.

fire grapes vineyard Calistoga California
Damaged grapes at a vineyard in Calistoga, California in 2017. Image used with permission by copyright holder

Made from Riesling grown on the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge, his 2017 Rauchwein finishes like a mezcal. It’s an interesting addition to Riesling’s traditionally clean flavors.

Corey Shuster of Jackalope Cellars, another Willamette Valley wine producer, had a similar experience. He has a pair of wines affected by smoke and addressed one by blending and the use of activated carbon. “I do think the smoke has added a fun extra layer to the wine that so far people are really digging,” he says.

Schuster describes his ’17 Grenache as crunchy, dusty, and red fruit-driven. “There’s a pretty savory note that offsets the fruit nicely,” he says. “It could almost be mistaken for a little barrel influence.”

His 2017 Cab Franc was mixed with some Merlot and Cab to balance out flavors and smoke influence. Schuster says it’s dialed-in at this point, with some bottles not even showing any influence.

Phelps Creek Vineyard Hood River Wildfire
Eagle Creek near Phelps Creek Vineyard in 2017. Bob Morus/Phelps Creek Vineyard

The unfortunate Eagle Creek Fire in the Gorge came within a few miles of Phelp Creeks Vineyards in 2017. So close that they built a defensive perimeter around the estate and evacuated a lot of the finished wines. Winds kept the flames at bay, but the smoke changed the makeup of the fruit.

The label cut down production that year because of smoke, but they will be releasing a small-batch Pinot Noir aptly named Eagle Creek this September, around the second anniversary of the blaze.

“It shows elements of roasted meats, campfire, and spice,” says Phelps Creek founder Robert Morus. “Perfect with barbecue.”

Mark Stock
Mark Stock is a writer from Portland, Oregon. He fell into wine during the Recession and has been fixated on the stuff since…
Kentucky Owl’s new Batch #13 is the final masterpiece from a bourbon legend
Kentucky Owl

Popular whiskey brand Kentucky Owl recently announced the launch of its newest bourbon, Batch #13. It was blended and crafted by former Master Blender John Rhea. What makes the whiskey more unique is that it was the last bourbon blend created by the Kentucky Bourbon Hall of Fame member before his retirement.
Kentucky Owl Batch #13

Batch #13 consists of a blend of five different bourbons. There’s a mix of younger and wheated whiskeys and more mature and higher rye whiskeys. The blend is roughly between eight and nine years old.

Read more
This underrated Dunkin’ coffee is smooth, strong, and totally worth the hunt
Don't overlook this coffee staple order
Dunkin nitro cold brew

Nitro cold brew is one of my go-to, anytime coffee orders, and it never disappoints, no matter where you order it. Even though nitro cold brew has grown in popularity, I still find it a "harder to find" coffee shop order when I'm on the go. I crave something about this drink's velvety smoothness—something you don't get from a regular cold brew order.

But why isn't everyone ordering the Dunkin' Nitro cold brew? Maybe Dunkin' just missed the mark on marketing this exceptional drink, but everyone I've talked to seems to have no idea that Dunkin' even has nitro cold brew. Or maybe it's just that this drink is not available at every Dunkin' location. Everyone seems to associate nitro cold brew with Starbucks, yet this drink is available beyond just Starbucks locations. Here's why I'll keep ordering Dunkin's nitro cold brew (and telling everyone I know about this order).
Where to find the Dunkin' nitro cold brew

Read more
When it comes to Champagne, what does the word “Brut” actually mean?
Get to know your bubbly
Champagne flutes

There’s just something about champagne that makes my heart flutter. Maybe it’s the sparkle, maybe it’s that famous cork pop that signals the start of a glamorous time, or maybe it’s the way it makes any cocktail feel special. I love champagne in all its forms, whether it’s bone-dry and bracing or sweet and indulgent. But not all bubbly is created equal, and if you’ve ever been confused by the difference between “brut” and “demi-sec,” you’re not alone. Let’s break down the different types of champagne so you can sip exactly what you love.
Understanding Champagne sweetness levels isn’t just wine snob trivia — it’s the key to choosing a bottle you’ll actually enjoy. Whether you’re a brut loyalist or prefer your Champagne to be softer and sweeter, knowing the differences between brut, extra dry, sec, demi-sec, and doux puts you one step closer to popping the perfect bottle. Let’s break it down, starting with the term you’re most likely to see: Brut.

What is Brut Champagne?

Read more