Skip to main content

The Story Behind Benihana, the World-Famous Japanese Steakhouse

Rags to riches stories, it seems, don’t come as often as they used to. The story of Benihana — incredibly humble beginnings, in particular — is a pretty good one, a better read than any Horatio Alger tale.

The Japanese steakhouse and teppanyaki chain was started in New York in 1964 by Hiroaki Aoki. The name may sound familiar as he’s the father of Steve Aoki, music magnate and DJ. The senior Aoki was an accomplished wrestler who was so good he qualified for the 1960 Olympics in Rome. Instead of grappling on the biggest stage, he opted for a life in restaurants.

Image used with permission by copyright holder

First, he needed the money. Aoki drove an ice cream truck through Harlem, ultimately coming up with about ten grand to start the business. His ice cream was often served with a Japanese cocktail umbrella stuck to its sugary core. Benihana, he thought, would be a theatrical restaurant, combining the knife skills of a sushi bar with an interactive, prepared-at-your-table sort of experience.

Recommended Videos

What perhaps comes to mind first — and something that has surely evolved since the beginning of the restaurant — is the food presentation. While there, you will be seated around the grill — sometimes with strangers, depending on the size of your party — and your chef will not only prepare your foods, but s/he will do it with flair, flinging and slinging his utensils around while making jokes and volcanoes of fire made from onion towers.

Image used with permission by copyright holder

The place did well. Soon, the original West 56th Street location had siblings. Famous visitors dined there, like The Beatles and Muhammad Ali. At its peak, there were more than 100 locations. Today, the franchise is based in Florida and is composed of around 70 restaurants. Aoki passed away in 2008. By then, the company had grown and undergone some serious corporate infighting which had minimized his role. While there have been ownership and restructuring shuffles of late, though, the Benihana approach has stayed much the same.

Those who’ve been there know the drill. There’s the red and black interior and the uniformed chef, operating before a steel grill (a style otherwise known as teppanyaki). The drinking mugs have become almost iconic, tiki-like in build, with the most famous modeled after Hotei, a delightfully pudgy fellow who appears to be raising the roof.

While there are plenty of cold edibles, like sushi, you’re wise to put your chef to work while there. There are tuna steaks, beef steaks, and chicken teriyaki that need the heat and dice treatment. There are also sea treasures like shrimp and scallops. The all-in crowd can even order up twin lobster tails and experiment with the house-made dipping sauces.

Image used with permission by copyright holder

The mixed drinks list imparts Asian ingredients to a wide variety of classics, like Mai Tais, Martinis, Tom Collins, Long Island Iced Teas, and more. They sling group-friendly punch bowls and a margarita made with yuzu. The wine and beer offerings are predictable, save for a nice house plum wine. And there’s a healthy sake list, including a custom Junmai-style made by TYKU for the restaurant. 

The nod to Japanese culture within any given Benihana is all the cooler given that founder Aoki’s dad, Yunosuke, is the descendent of a samurai. An entertainer by trade, it’s said that he launched a coffee shop in Tokyo, one that used real sugar that he pedaled twenty miles for by bike.

Today’s Benihana outlets probably don’t compare to the original NYC spot in terms of grub and entertainment value. But they still offer a glimpse of that love for flair that seems to be engrained in the Aoki DNA. Fans of Korean BBQ, Brazilian steakhouses, and all kinds of other eateries that spend added energy on the presentation and performance side of the experience will find some joy here. And so will kids, as every Benihana birthday bash can attest to.

Image used with permission by copyright holder

Part of its ability to hang on can almost certainly be attributed to the Food Network. Grabbing a meal here is a bit like having a cooking show host take over your restaurant table. There’s also a more dated element at play, something that might be swinging back into popularity for nostalgia’s sake. It’s the supper club aspect, wherein your meal is curated by a joke-telling chef with a solid handle on their cutlery and hot surfaces. Benihana is a fun cocktail made of equal parts Hibachi, Iron Chef, and Vegas.

Mark Stock
Mark Stock is a writer from Portland, Oregon. He fell into wine during the Recession and has been fixated on the stuff since…
Pineapple cocktails are this summer’s hottest trend — these recipes are must-try
Tropical is the way to go for summer cocktails
A glass of pineapple Tiki style cocktail.

Over the last few years, the cocktail world has seen a number of massive trends. From espresso Martini recipes galore to the return of fun flavors like banana, there's been a lot of action behind the bar. After chatting with some industry folks, we're convinced one of the big cocktail flavors of summer 2025 is going to be pineapple.

Call it escapism or that long-standing love for all things tropical, whatever it may be, pineapple seems to be coming back yet again. Recently, it's shown up not just in the form of intriguing cocktail recipes but infused into liqueurs and even injected into beer. Looks like pineapple might just find a way into your favorite glass this summer.

Read more
Flashy Independence Day cocktails from Deep Eddy Vodka
Red, white, blue, and refreshing
Festive Deep Eddy shot.

The Fourth of July is tomorrow and if you don't have a signature cocktail in order yet, fear not. We've got two festive recipes from a vodka brand worth trying out at home. They're cold, colorful, and refreshing, meaning they're more than welcome on a long summer weekend.

Deep Eddy set us up with pair of cocktails befitting of the weekend, each with a trio of colors and flavors. In the end, you're set up with a beverage that can handle even the hottest afternoon as you try out some easy grilling recipes. And you can dress them up any way you like, adding cool straws or garnishes.
Declaration on Ice

Read more
The ultimate holiday weekend drink: Good Guys’ Frozen Fernet & Coke
Bitter, sweet, cold, and cola-driven
Amaro

Fernet is amazing stuff. The iconic Italian amaro adds a smack of bitterness and herbaceous goodness to your favorite cocktails, balancing out the drink at large and making it oh so tasty. And the liquid goes especially well with Coke, preferably frozen.

In the spirit of summer, we reached out to Good Guys in NYC for an optimal hot-weather cocktail. You know, the one that's the equivalent of playing in front of a gushing fire hydrant in New York City on a sweltering day. And I believe we have the drink.

Read more