We’re hesitant to describe any destination in terms of “tourist versus non-tourist,” but Cabo San Lucas has always been an unabashed tourist-centric town full of all-inclusive beach resorts, never-ending 3-for-1 happy hours at bars (and gas stations), and garish dive bars like Cabo Wabo where tequila is (almost) cheaper than water. However, the city boasts a strange charm that most hardcore Mexican tourist centers lack. So, if none of this is your cup of horchata — if you’re looking to dig a little deeper — here are a few of our favorite places to play, eat, and stay in Baja California’s most well-known waterfront playground.
Know Your Geography
The geography of the Baja California Peninsula often confuses tourists. Just so we know where we’re talking about:
- The Baja California Peninsula is the narrow north-south peninsula that makes up the westernmost land in Mexico. It separates the Gulf of California in the east from the Pacific Ocean to the west.
- Baja California Sur is a sovereign state within Mexico that occupies the southern half of the Baja California Peninsula.
- Los Cabos is the southernmost municipality within Baja California Sur.
- The two cities of San Jose del Cabo (the seat of Los Cabos) and Cabo San Lucas (the southernmost city in Los Cabos) are the largest in Los Cabos. The latter is what most Americans are referring to when they say “Cabo.”
What to Do
The beauty of the Baja California Peninsula is almost surreal. From the iconic Arch at Land’s End in Cabo San Lucas to cruising the Sea of Cortez to endless cactus-laden arroyos, visitors here could spend a month and barely scratch the surface.
Even if you’re prepared to dodge the heavy-handed tourist experiences in the heart of the city, it’s inevitable that you’ll want an escape. When that day comes, it’s worth renting a car (dirt-cheap in this part of Mexico) and heading out of town. Just 10 minutes north of downtown Cabo San Lucas lies an impossibly barren, but beautiful, landscape of arroyos (an arid or semi-arid creek bed); towering, 30-foot cardón cacti; and tropical birds and wildlife not found anywhere else in Mexico. There are plenty of hiking and mountain biking opportunities in this part of the state, and you’re often guaranteed to have the trails all to yourself.
Of course, sometimes the best way to see a destination is to escape to the surrounding water. As Cabo San Lucas straddles the southern tip of the Baja California Peninsula, there’s no shortage of adventurous opportunities. Jacques Cousteau once dubbed the Sea of Cortez “the aquarium of the world” because of its immense biodiversity. There are more species of marine life here than anywhere else on earth. On a single boat trip, visitors can see giant manta rays, sea lions, humpback whales breaching, massive schools of endemic reef fish, and flying mobulas (rays that actually leap out of the water). This all translates to some of the best diving and snorkeling in North America.
If you’re just looking to tool around for a few hours on the water rather than in it, Cabo Outfitters is a one-stop eco-shop for water-related excursions. They offer everything from hourly equipment rentals to multi-day kayaking tours of Santa Maria Bay and Chileno Bay. The shallow waters of Los Chopitos are another great launch point. Here, the glass-like surface all but guarantees up-close fish encounters that’ll make you feel like you’re snorkeling.
What to Skip
Cabo San Lucas’ roots as a hard-partying tourist destination are still evident in its downtown core. Most resort-goers fancy a night out at the likes of Cabo Wabo (with the hopes of seeing founder Sammy Hagar take the stage) or Happy Ending Cantina (the T-shirts are practically required souvenirs for visitors). From there, the nightlife radiates outward in concentric circles of lesser-known, but just as tequila-soaked dive bars. If endless happy hours are your thing, you’ll find them, and an all-night pub crawl is likely to be measured in feet rather than city blocks. If not, the quieter — dare we say more responsible — section of town starts outside this radius, so you’ll know where to go and where to avoid.
Where to Eat and Drink
Cabo’s culinary scene is, of course, heavily inspired by traditional Mexican cuisine. However, the Baja California Peninsula also leans on fresh, Pacific seafood to color its dishes. Sushi is an integral part of not just of the food, but of the culture as a whole.
Tiki Sushi Bar is a unique, if curious, blend of waterfront tiki hut and legit sushi joint. To create the menu, the Mexican/Californian owner duo pulled inspiration from their respective hometowns, and the result is much cooler than the sum of its parts. The relaxed vibe, great sushi selection (the Thai Mango Roll is out of this world), cool marina breezes, and boardwalk people-watching make it the ideal spot to while away an afternoon with a bucket of Pacificos.
For one of the area’s swankiest lounge experiences, head to Glass Box. Attached to the lobby of The Cape hotel (more on this later), the name aptly describes the space’s modern, glass-and-steel architecture. It’s a relaxed, yet sophisticated cocktail lounge with a well-stocked humidor and bespoke themed cocktail tasting events. The sweeping ocean views of the hotel’s private beach only add to the experience.
The craft beer scene is still in its infancy in Los Cabos. But, if you’re more interested in saison than sashimi, hit up Baja Brewing Company. Overlook the 90s-era, Miami Beach-style Cabo Villas Beach Resort where the rooftop brewpub resides. It’s still a worthwhile spot to sample locally made beer with stunning panoramic water views to match.
Where to Stay
There is a litany of resorts in Cabo San Lucas. If you have the desire and disposable income, by all means, splash out on the extravagant lodging at Grand Solmar Land’s End or The Resort at Pedregal. But, if it’s a one-of-a-kind boutique hotel you’re after, you’ll have to dig deeper.
Most area resorts are awash in a cookie-cutter decor that feels plucked from a catalog, as though the designers believed ample stucco, Spanish tile work, and bold Caribbean colors were enough to seal their design. However, The Cape, A Thompson Hotel is altogether different. The modern industrial design — with copious use of concrete, steel, and glass mixed with warm natural elements like leather and wood — feels pulled straight from the pages of Architectural Digest (oh, wait, it was). The onsite Manta restaurant blends diverse tastes from around the Pacific, including Mexico, Peru, and Japan, and it has amazing ocean vistas to boot. Rooms are masculine and sophisticated, with leather headboards, teak furnishings, and oversized, all-glass rain showers. Check out the Surfer Villa — a sprawling two-floor suite with its own sauna, plunge pool, and a private beach entrance where Cape staff will lay out your day’s surf gear for you.
If you’re cool with staying just outside of town, head a half-hour north to San Jose del Cabo. It’s the sleepier, more laid back, more responsible older brother to Cabo San Lucas, with unique hotels to match.
When to Go
Weather-wise, there isn’t a bad season to visit Cabo San Lucas. The persistent Pacific breeze ensures the city rarely ever sees the stifling heat of Mexico’s interior cities. May is an all-around ideal time to go — the peak winter crowds have thinned out, the height of the summer heat hasn’t yet arrived (daily springtime temps hover in the 80s), and hotel and tour prices are often lower. It’s also just ahead of the potentially stormy summer season.
If you’re angling to follow some of Cabo San Lucas’ best events, these are worth noting:
- Mid-March/April: Spring Break throughout all of North America means Cabo hotels are packed to the gills, and most of the city parties accordingly. Depending on what you’re into, this is either the best or worst time to go. Be sure to plan well in advance and consider your wallet, because hotels fill up fast and rates are the highest of almost any other time of year. Semana Santa (Holy Week in Mexico, or Easter Week to other North Americans) also falls around this time. The dates vary from year to year, but it officially begins on Palm Sunday and culminates on Easter Sunday. Whether or not you’re an observing Catholic, know that this is one of the holiest and most festive times on the Mexican calendar. Although the country is nearly 90 percent Catholic, much of the holiday’s religious meaning has fallen away in recent years. It’s now simply a time for families to escape to the coasts and spend plenty of time outdoors.
- May: Believe it or not, Cinco de Mayo is celebrated far more in the U.S. than in Mexico. In fact, few Mexicans outside of Puebla even acknowledge its passing. But, if you’re looking for an extra reason to party, this isn’t a bad one, especially if you’re already planning to be in tourist- and expat-heavy Cabo. (Just don’t congratulate the locals on their “Independence Day” because that’s not actually what it’s about.)
- October/November: Sportfishing is big game (literally) off the Baja California coast. October sees the annual Los Cabos Billfish Tournament and the Bisbee’s massive Black & Blue Tournament. November also brings the Los Cabos Tuna Jackpot, where anglers compete for up to $850,000 in cash and prizes. While it often gets overshadowed by these other tourneys, the annual Baja Sur Tequila and Mariachi Festival in October is one of the area’s most authentic Mexican events.
Know Before You Go
It’s worth noting that, on August 22, 2017, the U.S. State Department issued a Mexico Travel Warning that covers large swaths of the country, including the Baja California Peninsula. While Cabo San Lucas is not specifically mentioned:
“Exercise caution as Baja California Sur continues to experience a high rate of homicides. According to Government of Mexico statistics, the state of Baja California Sur experienced an increase in homicide rates compared to the same period in 2016.”
There have been no known cases of U.S. citizens being targeted because of their nationality. Nevertheless, Americans should keep their wits about them when traveling anywhere in Mexico.