Skip to main content

A Beginner’s Guide For Learning How to Boulder

Rock climbing can be a little intimidating, what with all of the steep inclines, ropes, and requisite knots. But we’re not all trying to free-solo El Capitan like Alex Honnold. Many of us just want to get some quality exercise somewhere other than the weight room.

Bouldering is a tremendous full body workout that’s fun, improves balance and agility, and requires relatively little in terms of gear. It’s a type of rock climbing, but is generally rope-free, meaning you don’t have to learn how to belay. As such, there’s often more lateral movement than vertical, but it’s wonderfully demanding all the same.

How to boulder as a beginner

industryviews / Shutterstock

Find a route: Start easy if you’ve never climbed before. At the bouldering gym, getting started is as easy as finding a route. At most bouldering centers, the routes are color-coded by level of difficulty. The easier routes will have larger holds and less-demanding aspects. As you work your way up, you’ll notice the holds get smaller, more spread out, and tend to cover trickier rock faces and inclines.

Chalk up: Get comfortable chalking while you’re climbing as you’ll want to keep your palms as blister-free as possible. Practice dunking each hand into the bag, leaving the other hand available for stability.

Rest: Rest is key, especially when you start to take on longer routes that involve 30, 50, or 100 or more holds. Take advantage of spots on said routes where you can relax at least most of your body either by balancing or wedging yourself in position.

Practice routes: Going through a route mentally is a great way to plan your attack at the gym. Imagine where your major limbs will go as you move from hold to hold. Soon, your trained eyes will see the smallest of outcroppings and dents in the rock as places you could clasp onto. And nobody is going to dock you points early on if you don’t stick fully to the route map. Use all the holds you need early on until you get a feel for it.

Observe Others

Image used with permission by copyright holder

Learn from those around you. There will always be bouldering gym rats, just don’t let them get under your skin. Typically, the best climbers in the building are young kids, with little body weight and natural agility. Watch others, ideally those similar in size, as they navigate routes. Watch the detailed hand and footwork and try to replicate as best as you can on your own.

It’s a blast to attack a route in pairs and can be a learning experience as it’s rare for two climbers to approach a route in exactly the same way. Alternate with a friend or stranger at the gym, taking advantage of the frequent rests as you try to crack the code. And study at home with instructional videos like this.

Embrace the Awkward

Image used with permission by copyright holder

Bouldering is not the most comfortable sport but the exhilaration alone is worth the price of admission. The shoes are uncomfortable (they should be tight enough that your toes curl some, for a better, talon-like grip) and your legs and arms get beat up. Sometimes you’re completely inverted while other times your arms are twisted up and you feel locked in position. Embrace all of it. You have to get comfortable with being in strange positions while bouldering. Knowing that the discomfort is temporary will lead to greater victories.

Learning how to fall is part of the equation. Practice pushing off the wall and landing in squat form on the ground or pad below. Springing off is often important as it can protect you from getting caught on any holds on the way down. You don’t have to stick the landing but you’ll surely want to keep legs bent to soften the impact.

Become Stronger and More Flexible

Anastasiia Shuvalova / Shutterstock

Flexibility can make all the difference as you ascend to new bouldering heights. Stretch often and learn the limits of your limber body. Knock out at-home exercises and stay disciplined so that you actually begin to experience some results. Work on all major muscle groups, as bouldering demands pretty much the entire body. But focus especially on your core, calves, forearms, and shoulders.

To build or maintain finger strength when you’re not bouldering, use a stress ball or something with a fair deal of tension. It’s a mindless task you can carry out while knocking out some work from home or at the office, which will do wonders for your grip.

Gear

Image used with permission by copyright holder

A few things you’ll need as you embark on your adventures in bouldering:

  • Chalk bag
  • Tight-fitting climbing shoes
  • Comfortable clothing
  • Athletic tape
  • A good water bottle
  • Hand salve

Can you boulder by yourself?

Image used with permission by copyright holder

If you’re not able to get a group going to boulder and opt to go by yourself make sure you’re taking the necessary precautions. For those looking to go out and boulder in the wild, the gear requirements are a bit different. Without a padded floor at your service, you’ll likely need a crash pad you can tote along with you. A nylon brush is good to have to clear off potential holds and lighting (as in a headlamp) is great if you’re climbing until late or in cavernous areas with less natural light.

There are training boards you can set up at home to help you fine-tune your skills. And if you’re feeling really ambitious, build your own DIY wall. REI has a great tutorial on the subject. It’s a good home project to do as you stay at home over the holiday break due to the pandemic.

Editors' Recommendations

Topics
Mark Stock
Mark Stock is a writer from Portland, Oregon. He fell into wine during the Recession and has been fixated on the stuff since…
A Beginner’s Guide to Backcountry Navigation
Two people look at a map and decide which way to turn.

Knowing how to navigate in the backcountry is a foundation skill for every hiker and backpacker. Whether you're sticking to the established trail, plan to beat your own path through the undergrowth, or venture into the open hillside, knowing you're not going to get lost is pretty reassuring. Navigation goes a lot further than just not getting lost on the trail, though. Basic navigation is useful for planning your trip as well as dealing with any emergency situations that arise while you're out.

If you're new to the trails, it can be tempting to leave the navigation in the hands of the grimy old expert who has taken you under their wing. But even the most experienced outdoorsmen make mistakes. Even someone who has spent many years on the trail with command of a map and compass will welcome a second pair of eyes and someone to share the task of navigating. When the time comes for you to go out alone, you're going to need to know how to keep yourself on track, so here's our rundown of beginner navigation, the tools you need, and how to use them.

Read more
Hiking for Beginners: A Guide to Hitting the Trail
hiking for beginners sunrise.

That first hike is a gateway drug and a dangerous one at that. One moment you're pulling on your first pair of proper hiking socks, and lacing up your hiking boots, the next you're dedicating an entire room in your house to storing outdoor gear, and planning multi-day trips across the country. We don't typically advocate for vices that empty wallets, push our bodies to their limits, and find us waking up in strange places, but for outdoors junkies, we make an enthusiastic exception.

There's really no better way to experience a place than by exploring it one step at a time. If you're ready to take that first step but aren't sure where to begin your journey, you're in the right place. In this hiking for beginners guide, we'll cover everything you need to know on how to prepare for hiking and make it a serious habit. We'll cover what to wear and what gear you'll want to bring along. We'll even help you find some of the best hikes to take in your area. Ready? Let's chase this dragon...

Read more
The Ultimate Beginner’s Backpacking Guide
Tents at the Karanga Camp.

Packing your life into a backpack and heading into the backcountry is one of the purest forms of adventure. Backpacking expeditions offer the opportunity to unplug from technology and unwind from the daily grind, all while admiring jaw-dropping natural wonders, having intimate encounters with wildlife, and seeking out epic stargazing spots. Making the leap to backpacking is a big step, even for seasoned car campers. When you’re ready to hit the backcountry, plan your first getaway with our beginner's backpacking guide.
Choosing a Destination
While you hone your skills it's good to stay within your comfort zone and choose a trip that doesn’t push your physical limits. Starting slow allows you to build confidence and work up to tackling more challenging routes. Consider your fitness level and navigational skills, along with external environmental factors like the difficulty of the terrain, seasonal temperatures, and potential for extreme weather. Start with a trail that’s easy to follow and save the bushwhacking for future trips, once you have mastered backcountry navigation.

What to Pack
When you have a few backpacking trips under your belt, you’ll have a good idea of the type of the best multipurpose gear that you like to use on the trail and whether you prefer to pack ultralight or carry a few more creature comforts. For your first few trips, we recommend following a checklist. These are seven essentials you’ll need for every backpacking trip:

Read more