Skip to main content

Swill: A Primer on Pulque

Swill is our bi-monthly column dedicated to liquor, wine, beer, and every other delicious dram that falls under the broader umbrella of booze. But it’s more than just tasting notes scribbled on a cocktail napkin — Swill is about getting outside of your comfort zone, trying new things, and exploring the big, wide world of libations. One week you might catch us halfway through a bottle of single-malt scotch, and the week after that we might be buzzing on some Ugandan moonshine made from bananas. This column is just one big boozy adventure, so grab yourself a glass and join us for another round.

So since we covered the finer points of mezcal in the last installment of Swill, we’re figured it’d only be right to give you a primer on its fermented cousin, pulque. Just like mezcal, pulque is derived from the maguey plant — a giant, heat-loving succulent that’s more commonly known as agave. However, unlike mezcal, which is distilled from cooked, carmelized agave hearts, pulque is made from a quick fermentation of the plant’s sugary sap. It’s a drink that has a rich history in Mexican and Aztec culture, and despite experiencing a bit of a decline in popularity over the past few centuries, it’s rapidly making a comeback not only in Mexico, but also in southern border cities like San Diego and El Paso.

Recommended Videos

To make pulque, agave farmers begin by cutting the flowering stalk of the plant just as it begins to form. This is typically when the plant is around eight to ten years old, after it has stockpiled sugars its entire life in anticipation of the emergence of this single appendage. When the stalk is cut, it forces the base of the plant to swell, at which point it is covered and and allowed to rest for a few months while sap builds. After this waiting period, it is punctured again, which causes the heart to rot. This rotten interior is then scooped out and the inside cavity of the plant is scraped, which irritates it so much that sap begins to flow profusely — often producing more than a gallon per day.

pulque gatherer
Image used with permission by copyright holder

Once collected, the sap takes less than 24 hours to ferment and reach about 4-6 ABV, thanks largely to a naturally-occurring bacteria called Zymomonas moblis and a few other microorganisms. These aggressive little buggers bring about a quick and frothy fermentation, giving the resulting pulque a funky, sour flavor similar to what you’d get from overripe pears or bananas, yet with a distinctly cactus-flavored base note.

The flavor is, admittedly, a bit of an acquired taste, but it’s definitely something you should try if you’re ever given the opportunity. That being said, unfortunately good traditional pulque is hard to find outside of Mexico, since it’s traditionally prepared without preservatives and goes bad shortly after it’s made. Canned, pasteurized versions of the drink do exist, and can be found at many hispanic grocery stores, but it’s worth putting in the extra effort to track down the real deal.

After a healthly bit of Googling, we actually found a place that makes traditional pulque right here in Portland, Oregon — so there’s a good chance that if you look hard enough, you’ll be able to track some down in your city.

Drew Prindle
Drew is our resident tech nerd. He’s spent most of his life trying to be James Bond, so naturally he’s developed an…
I never liked cast iron pans — until I tried this game-changing version
Why it's different than your typical cast iron pan
Field Company Cast Iron Skillet

I never quite understood the hype around cast iron pans, despite everyone I know swearing by them as must-have kitchen essentials. As someone who loves cooking (especially things like a pan-seared steak), I've wanted to love cast iron skillets more than I ever actually did. That said, my experimentation with cast iron pans was short-lived and involved using an old pan that had been passed down to me.

Founders of Field Company, Stephen & Chris Muscarella, started off with a vintage 1930s Wagner cast iron pan and were told that there was no possible way a modern foundry could pour iron that thin. Yet, they defied odds, crafting a hand mold with slight changes (a heat ring, a more balanced handle) to develop the innovative Field Company cast iron pan we know today. If you've never quite mastered using a cast-iron pan, it may be time to reconsider. Modern-day cast-iron pans aren't like the ones your grandmother used to use. Field Company's cast iron pan changed my mind on the matter -- and it might change yours, too.
Pre-seasoning and easy maintenance

Read more
We asked bartenders to tell us the best tips for crafting cocktails at home
A handful of well-known bartenders told us tips to crafting great cocktails at home
Bartender

There hasn't always been as much enthusiasm about mixology. We can thank the cocktail renaissance of the early aughts for the rise in cocktail culture. Not only did it give way to a new wave of innovative, creative bartenders all over the US (and the world), but it also returned classic drinks to prominence and paved the way for a new age of home cocktailing. And while I could write about all of the exciting things the cocktail renaissance brought with it, today, I'm most interested in the art of crafting cocktails at home.

Like many of you, I'm not (and never have been) a bartender. But, in my work, I've spent much time in cocktail bars and around bartenders. I've created a simple, workable home bar featuring tools, ingredients, and bottles of various spirits. But I didn't start with a fully functional home bar on day one. And neither will you.

Read more
Love tropical cocktails? Try these fresh takes on summer classics
Elevated twist on classic summer cocktails
Tropical pina colada

Nothing says summertime like tropical coconut, pineapple, yuzu, and more flavors. We're putting a new twist on classic cocktails like a mai tai, pina colada, and margarita this summer. These elevated tropical cocktails will have you returning for more all summer long, inspiring you to try new variations of your favorite classics. From the Coconut Bahama Mama to the Stiggin's Daiquiri, these cocktails are perfect for making at your summer beach house, sipping on at a poolside party, or cooling down after a long summer day. Here's how you can make these distinguished tropical cocktails at home.

Coconut Bahama Mama

Read more