While seafood and wine is something of a familiarity, we don’t often consider sushi and wine. Like a lot of pairings, this one seems a little more of a reach, if only because we’re not eating enough sushi (or we don’t know about sake). But there are some great matches for classic omakase dishes, relating to sake and wine.
There’s hardly anyone better to talk to on the subject than Matt Lynn. He’s the sommelier at Michelin-starred Joji in NYC. The omakase-style restaurant has one of the largest sake and wine cellars around. Right now, his favorite match at the restaurant involves an aged sake with savory notes. ” My favorite pairing currently is Kikuhime Kinken, a Junmai sake that’s been aged for a couple of years,” he says. “The ricier, more mellow, and umami driven flavors are great with mushroom, eel, and mackerel nigiri.”
The flexibility of sake
“People often think of sushi as very delicate, and as a result, don’t imagine that there’s a wide range of wines with which you can successfully pair, but sushi is incredibly diverse,” Lynn says. “Leaner styles of fish like Karei, Shima Aji, and Akami often shine paired with something high acid and mineral, but fattier cuts can stand up to a more textured, even oakier style of wine. More robust, full-flavored fish like eel and mackerel can thrive alongside earthier reds like Burgundy.”
And then there’s sake, which is very different structurally than wine, making it versatile in its own way. “Sake doesn’t have tannin and as such is a lovely match with leaner styles of protein,” he says. “Sake also often has a touch of residual sugar, which allows it to soften the heat of spicy food. Sake can match with robust fattier styles of cuisine because of its natural umami component. It’s difficult to find a clashing pairing with sake compared to wine.”
If there are rules, they are meant to be messed with. Another favorite pairing surprised even Lynn: Tokaji and ankimo. “It’s a riff on the classical pairing of Sauternes and foie gras,” he says. “Tokaji is a botrytized sweet wine similar to Sauternes and ankimo is monk fish liver, similar to foie gras which is goose or duck liver. People are often surprised when I pour a sweet wine in the middle of the menu, but it’s a magical melding of sweet and savory, acid and fat. Super decadent.”
Simplicity works too. “When in doubt, Champagne and shellfish is a home run,” Lynn adds.
Navigating a sake menu
“There are a lot of complex terms with sake that may be tough to memorize: Ginjo, Daiginjo, Junmai Daiginjo, Muroka Nama Genshu, etc. and yet even if you learn those terms it still might be challenging in terms of knowing what to expect a given bottle to taste like,” Lynn says. “I’d suggest giving a price point to the sommelier, mentioning if you prefer something fruity or savory, if you like something bone dry or a bit softer, and if you are open to trying new bottles and styles. Those details will ensure you get a delicious and interesting bottle every time.”
In that sense, it’s a lot like navigating a traditional wine menu. Put some faith in the staff and offer basic guidelines on what your palate is drawn to. They can then point you towards specific pairings. That, or just be a genuine passenger and opt for a tasting menu if available.
On pairing at home
“I’ve had a lot of fun with at home pairings by building a meal around a single ingredient,” Lynn says. “For example, capers. Capers are flower buds and are often briny, so I paired that meal with a Sicilian Zibibbo, which is a floral white wine with a salty sea spray note. It was such a sensational meal matching those floral and salty elements and it tied every dish together with the wine. You could do the same thing with many different wines and s,ake trying to match a singular specific flavor in the beverage to a component in each dish.”
With traditional wines, there are some pretty reliable options that do well with typical sushi offerings. As Lynn mentioned, sparkling is a great option. But also consider Pinot Blanc paired with fattier fish, Sauvignon Blanc with vegetables, an off-dry Riesling with spicy fare, and Gruner Veltliner with just about anything. Don’t overlook pink wines as well and even consider a good chilled red wine with things like salmon and swordfish.
Just make sure you’re eating sushi the right way, and don’t be afraid to experiment.
