Skip to main content

Not Your Father’s Overcoat: How To Pick The Right Jacket For Every Occasion

men's outerwear on coat rack
Gone are the days when men would go out into the world swimming in fabric. Raglan sleeves, billowing bodices, rain jackets over suits, and dusters down to the ankles have lost favor with the fashion godsand thank goodness for that. The age of the well-fitting, simple, clean line-dominated coat is upon us.

Whether you’re looking for a casual bomber for a guys night at the bar or a nice overcoat for date night, the possibilities are endless according to Brian Hathaway, a style expert at Mario’s in Portland, OR.

Related Videos

“Our philosophy is that you can’t have too much outerwear,” Hathaway says.

Men’s outerwear is experiencing a renaissance at the moment.Bombers and parkas and great coats, oh my. Whether you want something dressy or casual, functional or fashionable—or both!—now is a great time to go out and enjoy all the outerwear the world has to offer.  There is a jacket for every occasion, and The Manual is here to help you figure out what to wear.

Length

The general rule according to Hathaway is: the longer the coat, the dressier the occasion.

While short overcoats were in vogue for a few years, length is making a comeback.

These overcoats aren’t your dad’s dusters, however. A properly fitted overcoat should fall just above the knee whether you’re short or tall. There’s room to play with this length if you so choose, but taller gentlemen be warned that anything that hits mid-thigh might make you look oversized, and shorter gents, avoid anything below the knee.

Parkas and other rain jackets look best when they fall somewhere between just below the buttocks and just above mid-thigh.

Bombers and other short coats should hit just above the derrière or, at the longest, mid-butt.

Bodice

While this is largely dependent on the kind of coat you’re looking for—bombers and track jackets, for instance, tend to have fuller bodices—straight silhouettes are universally flattering.

Hathaway says to look for a jacket that fits comfortably through the waist but doesn’t pull. “While you don’t want too much fabric, which overwhelms, you don’t want a skinny fit either.”

You should be able to move comfortably in your coat without too much excess fabric, though keep in mind how many layers you plan to wear underneath. If you’re still confused about the right balance between a clean fit and a skinny fit, use the X test for suits. If the jacket pulls at the fastening point, it’s too tight.

“The straight silhouette just gives a clean finish and a modern look,” Hathaway says.

While tailoring is an option, Hathaway says, you want to get as close a fit off the rack as possible.

Related: TGIF Shopping: Norwegian Wool’s Fall Collection Is Here To Warm Your Chill

Sleeves And Shoulders

Pay attention to the sleeves of a jacket, and it’ll make the difference between looking dapper and looking like you’re playing dress-up.

Hathaway says the sleeve should hit about an inch above the V of your hand. Anything longer, and you’ll look undersized; anything shorter, and you’ll look like you’ve squeezed into a child’s coat.

Look for how the shoulder fits as well. You want the shoulder of your jacket to be sharp. Avoid jackets with shoulders that extend more than half an inch to an inch past your actual shoulder. Again, this is dependent upon how much you’ll be layering underneath. The general rule is that you want the shoulder to have a close, sharp fit without any pull.

For nicer overcoats, beware raglan sleeves. While not always the caseThe Manual always urges you to use your own judgment—the diagonal seam can make the shoulder look shapeless and sloppy.

Details

Hathaway says details are getting cleaner and sharper on coats. While there’s room for the occasional flare, for the most part coats are dark, clean, and simple—no more superfluous zippers or piled-on pockets.

“Less detail is better,” Hathaway says. “It’s more modern, and it looks better on everyone.” 

Details like spread collars, shearling, or accent colors—burgundy is our favorite right now—are visually appealing yet subtle. That’s not to say you should avoid fun details if they speak to you. It’s all fair game as long as it doesn’t overwhelm.

Hathaway says that he’s seen a lot of really great reversible jackets come through Mario’s as well: one side is a softer fabric, like wool, and the other is nylon. Reversible jackets are chameleons—they look good on every occasion.

One of the best parts about shopping for a coat in 2016? Technological advances.

“Technology has changed the way we shop for coats,” Hathaway says. Cashmere is no longer reserved for dry days, for example. Now you can buy water resistant cashmere and look sharp in any weather.

No matter which way you cut it or what you’re looking for—whether a nice leather jacket for the weekend or a cashmere great coat for a night on the town—as long as you follow our fit guide, you won’t go wrong.

Image courtesy of Laura Bittner via Creative Commons.

Editors' Recommendations

Our Top Picks for the Best Men’s Denim Jackets
best mens denim jackets men s jacket

A great denim jacket is an essential addition to every man's wardrobe. Not only do they provide a classically cool look, but they're practical, too, thanks to their durability and versatility. Most denim jackets work as a perfect middle-temperature layer during the spring or fall, some are light enough for a hot summer day, and others still are extra heavy to provide warmth in the winter. Whatever the case, a subpar Canadian tuxedo top won't cut it, as they tend to fit poorly and fall apart fast.

These recommendations have been selected based upon a combination of firsthand trials by the writer as well as reviews from top industry experts and actual customer ratings. In other words, these are suggestions you can trust.
Best Overall: Woodies Trucker Jacket

Read more
The 17 Best Men’s Hat Styles in 2022
mens hat styles portrait of a man with face covered by the

Hats occupy an odd place in our culture. They can be expensive custom creations, practically disposable costume toppers, or rugged utilitarian models. When worn, as they are, right on our heads, they make a statement about our personalities, our careers, or our intentions faster than any other single object of clothing and apparel. Once a required part of every gentleman’s wardrobe, since JFK was president they were kicked aside in favor of a perfect haircut. Maybe that’s for the best: Now that we aren’t required to wear them — except where obliged by a uniform or custom — we can really celebrate the medium, building hat collections suited for the seasons, our fitness activities, or as vacation mementos.

Here we’ve put together a guide to some of today’s more common silhouettes, although from sun hats to sombreros, captain’s hats to flight caps, berets to balaclavas, there are so many variations and evolutions of styles we couldn’t fit them all. Picking one out can be a tough decision. Pay attention to proportion: A hat should complement your face, not hide it. Round shapes like bowlers and beanies will emphasize a rounder face, while the longer, taller lines of a fedora may complement those features better. Wider brims will exaggerate wide faces, and can make narrow faces look even thinner. Watch out for extreme styles that you may buy for fun, but only wear once or twice. Spend some time in a hat shop with an expert salesperson and a mirror. But most of all, relax and have some fun with your new friend.

Read more
The 10 Best Wool Coats for Men in 2022
best wool coats for men handsome young man outdoor in winter fashion

We're in the thick of winter, and as temperatures continue to drop it's essential your wardrobe is ready for the cold as well. Aside from the few warm days scattered throughout the season (thanks to global warming), it's safe to say it's time to switch out your lightweight jackets for heavier coats. Perfect for transitioning into colder weather, wool coats have been a staple in men's wardrobes for decades. Coming in a wide variety of silhouettes and textures, there are several best wool coats for men options out there from our favorite menswear brands.

Related Guides

Read more