Skip to main content

Cartier revives its rare Tank à Guichets at Watches & Wonders

This legendary "digital" mechanical watch from 1928 gets a faithful revival

Cariter launches The Return Of The Cartier Tank à Guichets
Cartier / Cartier

Cartier revealed a stunning update of one of its special timepieces during Watches & Wonders Geneva. Four new models bring back the Tank à Guichets and these honor the initial 1928 design plus include current watchmaking improvements.

This Tank à Guichets is different in horology and it acted as an early example of a “digital” mechanical watch. Instead of common hands, it showed time through two openings. The model came out first in 1928, in very few numbers. It gained cult status among collectors – Duke Ellington wore it often.

Recommended Videos

This 2025 version goes back to the original design ideas more accurately than the prior 1997 set. It includes the crown at the top, not at the side like the anniversary version. The new set holds three regular versions in gold and pink gold next to platinum. A set of only 200 pieces in platinum changes the hour opening by 90 degrees from the first layout.

All four versions measure 37.6 x 24.8mm. They have a slim 6mm shape, giving a smooth feel on the wrist – this finds a balance between classic size plus current wear. But the platinum version has red numbers plus a matching leather band, crafting an especially good look.

Inside each timepiece exists the new manual 9755 MC calibre. They built this just for the set with special hours and trailing minutes. This action shows a real investment in the model – Cartier backs the Tank à Guichets beyond just a limited rerun.

The remake speaks to the design’s constant appeal plus a surprisingly current style. When presented close to a century ago, the Tank à Guichets left behind regular time displays. Though its simple way is still unique now, like it was ground-breaking back then.

With the relaunch of the Tank à Guichets, Cartier keeps exploring the “art of metamorphosis” – the main idea across the brand’s 2025 updates. For instance by looking at plus changing this old design, Cartier shows how heritage inspires current watch creation.

For the new Tank à Guichets set, Cartier has not yet said prices. As metal pieces with a special action, they will exist at the high end of the brand’s goods. On top of that more news about the set lives on Cartier’s site while Watches & Wonders shows until April 7.

Andrew McGrotty
Andrew is a full-time freelance writer with expertise in the luxury sector. His content is informative and always on trend.
Topics
Noah and Timex release lighthouse watch following sun and moon success
Long island heritage: Noah's timex lighthouse watch honors golden ellipse legacy
Noah x timex collab

Noah continues its watch partnership with Timex through the Lighthouse Watch, following last summer’s sold-out Sun & Moon Watch. That earlier collaboration became one of 2024’s most popular affordable timepieces. This new $228 release draws inspiration from Long Island history and pays homage to an iconic watch design.
The Lighthouse Watch reflects Noah designer Brendon Babenzien’s connection to his Long Island roots, specifically the Fire Island Lighthouse near his childhood home. Babenzien explains that the lighthouse was always in the background of his life, making it a meaningful motif for this watch.
Design-wise, the watch is a clear nod to the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse, with a softly rounded, gold-plated stainless steel case measuring 31 x 35mm. This silhouette, paired with a croco-pattern leather strap, evokes the elegant, curvy shapes of the 1970s while remaining accessible thanks to Timex’s manufacturing. The minimalist white dial features a charcoal illustration of a lighthouse at six o’clock, serving as the centerpiece of the design. Gold-tone baton hands and subtle Noah NY and Timex branding at three and six o’clock complete the look, while the absence of hour markers keeps the focus on the artwork.
This collaboration stands out from typical fashion watch releases by integrating a personal, artistic touch that fits seamlessly with Noah’s aesthetic—mirroring the brand’s graphic tees and tailored pieces. The watch is powered by a reliable quartz movement, protected by a mineral glass crystal, and offers 30 meters of water resistance for everyday use. The 18mm lug width and compact size make it suitable for a range of wrist sizes, though the elliptical case may appeal most to those open to alternatives to round watches.
Pre-orders run from June 5–12, with delivery expected in November 2025. The $228 price point positions the Lighthouse Watch between entry-level fashion watches and basic Swiss options, reflecting Noah’s accessible luxury ethos and appealing to both streetwear fans and those who prefer preppy style.
Notably, this is the first Noah watch Babenzien plans to wear himself, despite not being a watch collector—a testament to the design’s broad appeal for those seeking a unique, easy-to-wear piece rather than a collector’s item. The collaboration demonstrates how fashion brands can create meaningful, affordable watches through authentic partnerships and storytelling, attracting both core customers and watch enthusiasts looking for alternatives to luxury icons.

Read more
Zenith unveils stealth defy shadow dive watches in micro-blasted titanium
Dark depths: Zenith's micro-blasted titanium defy shadow editions honor 1969 heritage
Zenith defy extreme shadow diver blue background

Zenith redefines its DEFY dive watch legacy with two striking "Shadow" editions, giving both new and classic designs a fresh look in micro-blasted titanium. The DEFY Extreme Diver Shadow and the DEFY Revival Diver Shadow blend the collection's 1969 origins with modern stealth aesthetics, creating professional-grade dive tools for underwater exploration.
Since 1969, the DEFY collection has earned the nickname "time safe" for its robust construction, which protected movements like a vault. The original DEFY Diver A3648, known as the DEFY Plongeur, showcased serious diving credentials with 600-meter water resistance and a rotating bezel—qualities these Shadow editions pay tribute to, while also introducing contemporary materials and bold visual statements.
The DEFY Extreme Diver Shadow features a 42.5mm micro-blasted titanium case, emphasizing the collection's angular profile. Its matte finish highlights geometric lines and enhances the stealthy look, while yellow accents boost visibility. The black ceramic bezel is unidirectional and filled with Super-LumiNova for clear readability, with fluted edges for easy operation with gloves.
Robust engineering is evident in the 600-meter water resistance, helium escape valve, and screw-down crown with guards, making the watch suitable for saturation diving. The black dial, adorned with a star pattern, features C1 Super-LumiNova markers and yellow accents for visibility in low light.
Both models, despite their depth ratings, have display case backs to showcase their movements. The Extreme Diver houses the El Primero 3620 automatic caliber in a black finish, beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour. It includes a paramagnetic escapement and silicon components, delivering a 60-hour power reserve.
The DEFY Revival Diver Shadow faithfully echoes the original A3648, with a 37mm micro-blasted titanium case and the signature fourteen-sided bezel. The unidirectional bezel features a yellow-tinted sapphire insert, and the screw-down crown is positioned at 4:30, just like the first model. Water resistance remains at 600 meters, or 1,969 feet—a nod to the DEFY collection’s founding year.
The Elite 670 automatic caliber powers the Revival Diver, operating at 4Hz with a 60-hour power reserve. Its display case back reveals a Geneva-striped oscillating weight shaped like the Zenith star.
Both models offer a variety of strap options, including micro-blasted titanium bracelets, black rubber with a Cordura-effect texture, and fabric straps made from recycled fishing nets. Quick-change mechanisms make swapping straps easy.
These Shadow editions highlight Zenith’s ongoing innovation in professional dive watch design, seamlessly combining technical excellence with bold, contemporary styling.

Read more
IWC expands top gun collection with mojave desert ceramic pilot watch
Desert inspiration: IWC's sand-colored ceramic pilot watch honors naval aviation heritage
IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 TOP GUN Mojave Desert

IWC Schaffhausen is expanding its military aviation collection with the Pilot's Watch Automatic 41 TOP GUN Mojave Desert, the latest addition to the brand’s "Colors of TOP GUN" series. This watch features ceramic construction that pairs desert-inspired aesthetics with Swiss precision, drawing inspiration from navy flight suits and the rugged terrain surrounding the China Lake air base in California’s Western Mojave Desert.
The 41mm case showcases IWC’s forty years of ceramic expertise, rendered in their proprietary "Mojave Desert" color—a muted earth tone blending beige and khaki. This distinctive shade does more than look good; it directly references the flight suits worn by navy pilots and the arid landscape where US Navy aviators train at China Lake.
IWC’s ceramic process highlights how complex achieving this subtle color actually is. Artisans form ceramic from powdered raw materials into "green body" shapes, machine them closer to their final form, and then fire them in a kiln. This high-temperature process makes the ceramic exceptionally hard and scratch-resistant. The Mojave Desert color is achieved by carefully mixing zirconium oxide with metallic oxides.
The challenge increases because the color changes during firing, requiring extensive testing to achieve the exact tone. This meticulous approach reflects IWC’s long-standing dedication to advanced materials—a legacy dating back over 150 years, making them pioneers in both titanium and ceramic watchmaking.
The watch’s design maintains a unified color scheme. The brown dial features understated minute scales and numerals that glow with Super-LumiNova for legibility in low light, matching the ceramic case. A beige rubber strap with a fabric inlay and a titanium pin buckle completes the look, adding both durability and comfort.
Technical excellence is evident in the IWC-manufactured 32112 caliber. This automatic movement uses a pawl winding system to deliver a 120-hour power reserve. Its 4Hz frequency ensures precise timekeeping, and the bi-directional rotor efficiently stores energy from even the smallest wrist movements.
The titanium case back is engraved with the TOP GUN logo, underscoring the watch’s connection to naval aviation while also reducing weight. The choice of titanium further demonstrates IWC’s expertise in working with advanced metals, complementing their mastery of ceramics.
This watch joins a growing Mojave Desert collection, which includes the Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Edition, the Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41, and the Big Pilot's Watch TOP GUN Edition. All feature the signature sand-colored ceramic, but offer different functionalities and case sizes.
IWC’s commitment to sustainable luxury is evident in their careful sourcing of materials and efforts to minimize environmental impact, ensuring these watches embody both technical mastery and responsible craftsmanship. The brand’s focus on transparency, reuse, and care results in timepieces built to last for generations.
The Pilot's Watch Automatic 41 TOP GUN Mojave Desert demonstrates how military inspiration can be transformed into civilian luxury, blending professional tool heritage with contemporary design through advanced materials and renowned Swiss watchmaking expertise.

Read more