With lots of skincare and suncare talks this time of year, Dr. Suzanne Jagger of Aura Aesthetics reminds us of a few widespread misconceptions about SPF. Alarming statistics show that 1 in 5 Americans will face skin cancer at some point in their lifetime, highlighting just how important it is to protect your skin from the harmful rays of the sun. According to Dr. Jagger, many fall victim to believing that high SPF numbers work, but there’s more to suncare than an SPF rating. Below, Dr. Jagger sets the record straight, sharing the most common (and dangerous) misbelief surrounding sunscreen.
Common SPF myths
In her practice, Dr. Jagger sees many patients who still believe that sunscreen is only necessary when they’re directly exposed to the sun and want to prevent a sunburn. This misconception harms patients, and “Could not be further from the truth,” she says. “The truth is, when the sun is hiding, the skin damage it causes isn’t. If there’s daylight, your skin’s getting hit, and those UV rays add up over time.”
Even when it’s not sunny outside, “UV rays, particularly UVA, can penetrate clouds and glass… so simply, it’s not true that sunscreen is only needed on sunny days.” According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, up to 80% of UV rays still reach your skin on cloudy days. Dr. Jagger urges everyone to protect themselves from the sun, even in overcast or cooler weather, to protect against cumulative sun damage.
Another common SPF misconception is that just one pump of moisturizer is enough to do the trick. Dr. Jagger shares, “Most people apply a quick pump of moisturizer and call it good, but that’s rarely enough product to get the full protection promised on the label. You need about a nickel-sized amount for your face, and most people fall short. A dedicated broad-spectrum sunscreen is the best bet for effective protection. I tell my patients to layer it on last in the morning, and then you’re good to go.”
SPF ratings and effectiveness
Lots of confusion surrounds SPF ratings and their effectiveness, according to Dr. Jagger. Anything less than SPF 30 is “Like a defense line in the game with no pads and no helmet,” she says. “You’re out there facing a powerful force with insufficient protection, leaving yourself vulnerable to significant damage down the line. SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB rays, which are the ones that fry your skin and trigger skin cancer. Go lower than that and you’re not protected enough, especially if you’re outdoors, active, or just not applying as much as you should (which most people aren’t). Skincare professionals and the Skin Cancer Foundation agree that SPF 30 is the starting point, not the goalpost.”
Higher SPF numbers
Although higher SPF numbers offer more protection, Dr. Jagger says the difference is negligible. SPF numbers above 50 “Blocks about 98% of UVB rays. SPF 100? About 99%. But the catch is that most people don’t apply enough sunscreen to get the protection they think they’re getting. On top of that, almost no one reapplies every two hours like they’re supposed to.” Rather than chasing SPF 100 as a “magic shield”, Dr. Jagger recommends focusing on applying SPF 30 or higher and applying enough of it to get the full benefits. She recommends dosing as a “Shot glass for your whole body, and a nickel-sized amount for your face.”
UVA vs. UVB rays
Understanding UVA vs. UVB rays is another critical component to protecting your skin from sun damage. “Put simply, UVB will give you sunburn and contribute to skin cancer. These are the ones SPF numbers are based on. UVA will accelerate aging. These rays penetrate deeper, cause wrinkles, leathery skin, and long-term DNA damage that leads to, you guessed it, cancer too. UVA rays come through windows and clouds. And no, they don’t give you a warning burn like UVB does. They just sneak in and start aging your skin, whether you feel it or not. This is why broad-spectrum sunscreen matters, because it protects the skin from both. If it doesn’t say “broad-spectrum” on the label, it’s basically half a solution,” says Dr. Jagger.
Treating sun damage
The best way to manage sun damage is to prevent it from occurring in the first place with proper sun protection. However, if the sun’s already beaten your skin, Dr. Jagger says it can’t be fixed with a fancy face wash. “The reality is, the treatments that work [for treating sun damage] are the ones that hit beneath the surface. IPL, or intense pulsed light, is one of the most popular options for fading dark spots and evening out skin tone.
Chemical peels can resurface the top layer of the skin, getting rid of dead, damaged cells and helping new, healthier skin come forward. Laser resurfacing goes even deeper, stimulating collagen, improving texture, and reducing fine lines caused by long-term UV exposure. These medical-grade solutions go far deeper than any over-the-counter products you can purchase.
Identifying sun damage
If you’ve noticed your skin looking rough, dull, or uneven, or have brown spots, these may be signs that UV exposure has taken a toll on your skin. “Beyond cosmetic issues, it’s important to watch for anything that could be more serious. New moles or spots that start to change in color, size, or shape, or that bleed or itch, need to be checked immediately. I always tell my patients that if something doesn’t look right, don’t ignore it and get it looked at right away! Catching any issues like this early can save your life,” says Dr. Jagger.
