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A foodie’s guide to Providence, an old city with new flavors

The best eats in The Renaissance City

Providence, RI
Yiming Chen / Getty Images

When you think of Providence, Rhode Island, you might picture higher education or history that dates back to the 17th century. But the largest city in Rhode Island is increasingly known for its culinary culture. And at this rate, the town may soon have some contenders for the best restaurants in America credentials.

Providence is home to about 200,000 people, a size just big enough for some serious culinary talent. Couple that with the fact that Americans are continuing to seek out smaller cities to work remotely and experience some of that stereotypical charm, and you have a place cooking up some noteworthy dishes.

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If you’re headed to Rhode Island, go hungry. These are the best restaurants in Providence.

Gift Horse

Gift Horse restaurant, Providence, RI
Gift Horse

There’s buzz surrounding the raw bar known as Gift Horse, and it’s easy to see why. The oyster selection is outstanding, showcasing shellfish from the immediate area. There’s a big emphasis on seasonality, and in addition to great fresh seafood and cool platters, there’s a handsome cocktail program and bang-up dishes like sugar kelp salad, monkfish toast, and even a Bulgarian-style lamb burger. Sure, there’s a plethora of great surf options but the turf dishes aren’t to be overlooked.

Frank & Laurie’s

Hotel Breakfast
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You kinda feel like family when you walk into Frank & Laurie’s. Serving breakfast and lunch daily and dinner on Fridays, the place has become a real go-to for brunch fans. Yes, Gwyneth Paltrow endorsed the place, but locals would flock here regardless of the added press, thanks to delicious biscuits, beautiful quiches, and deftly done breakfast staples. Don’t stop there, as the soups are fantastic, the salads are fresh and vibrant, and the sandwiches are special. Come for the hash browns and stay for the meatballs.

Hemenway’s

Hemenway's restaurant, Providence, RI
Hemenway's

Hemenway’s earned its temporary closure (reopening again in March), having been part of the Providence food circuit since 1985. With an award-winning wine program and exceptional cocktails, there’s always something great being poured or shaken up.

The food side is helmed by chef Austin Hamilton, an experienced culinary mind who worked at top Boston restaurants before landing here. This is classic white tablecloth dining, with standout dishes like Rhode Island-style calamari, crab cakes, grilled swordfish, lobster tortelloni, and a selection of steaks.

The mocktail list is way more than an afterthought; the dessert menu includes items like pistachio cardamom cheesecake, and for those who like a good nightcap beverage, there are even several post-meal coffee cocktails to choose from.

New Rivers

New Rivers restaurant, Providence, RI
New Rivers

Another restaurant with an established pedigree, New Rivers, first opened in 1990. Since then, it’s become a hotbed for house-made pasta, gravlax, po’boys, pan-roasted skate, and more. The concept is to spotlight all things southern New England, or at least give them the Rhode Island treatment. That means proteins from land and sea and pretty much only going with what’s in season. Oh, and the bistro inhabits an old warehouse that dates back to the 18th century.

Angelo’s

Angelo's restaurant, Providence, RI
Angelo's

Having turned 100 last year, Angelo’s is an icon within the Providence food arena. Set in Italian-centric Federal Hill, this joint does Italian-American as it should be done. Think daily specials like fried smelts or baked stuffed shrimp, starters like fried eggplant and fried cheese ravioli, and mains like spaghettini aglio olio and Tuscan white bean pasta. All to the delightful tune of big leather booths and black and white checkered flooring,

Pizza Marvin

Pizza Marvin, Providence, RI
Pizza Marvin

Of the many pizza styles out there, Rhode Island is one of the least well known beyond New England. And perhaps that’s not surprising, as the genre is built around essentially thick pizza strips. Pizza Marvin goes for a leaner, thin crust, but certainly given the Rhode Island treatment in terms of toppings.

Ease into things with some burrata or a good chopped salad before diving into a pizza treated to everything from hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, leeks, and raclette to clams, potato, bacon, and herbs (aptly called the “chowdah pie”). Try a Transfusion cocktail, made with vodka, pisco, ginger, and Concord grape. If you’re really feeling saucy, opt for a Negroni made with pepperoni gin. And be sure to peep the frozen custard offerings for a sweet treat.

Chilangos

Molé
arturogi / Getty Images

A casual Mexican spot with great eats, Chilangos gives the soul what it hungers for. There’s comfort food all over the menu, from little corn dough bowls filled with pulled pork to queso fundido and well-made moles. Take a tour of the taco offerings and wash it all down with a margarita. Be on the lookout for excellent enchilada offerings as well as peppercorn-rubbed flap steak with cactus salad.

Other things to do

Providence, Rhode Island downtown
GoProvidence / Facebook

While eating your weight in seafood is a perfectly good option, there are other things to do in Providence. Pretend you’re an Ivy League student and walk the grounds at Brown University. Take a historical tour or pop into age-old farms and more museums than you would ever associate with such a modestly sized town.

Drink a refreshing lager made famous by the movie Jaws at Narragansett or try a German Pilsner or Northeast IPA at Moniker Brewery. Take the kids to the children’s museum or take in a show at the gorgeous Providence Performing Arts Center. The city is quite walkable, with a condensed downtown area so often accented by cobblestone underfoot.

Mark Stock
Mark Stock is a writer from Portland, Oregon. He fell into wine during the Recession and has been fixated on the stuff since…
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