The island of Ukupseni — or Playón Chico (“little beach”), as it’s known in Spanish — is a tiny isla off the Caribbean coast in Panama’s beautiful Guna Yala territory (formerly known as the San Blas Islands). Ukupseni has long been a draw for adventurers looking for a beautiful and remote respite. This stretch of Central America is home to the Guna, one of the seven indigenous groups of Panama. Throughout the region there are fifty-one Guna communities. Eight are on the mainland and 43 are on islands.
Ukupseni has a population of 3,000 Guna on the extremely small, 0.75-square mile island. which is only accessible by plane (one flight a day) or by four-hour boat ride. Due to its remoteness, the fishing village largely exists as it has for hundreds of years. Narrow dirt roads wind through thatch-roofed homes. Children fly kites after school through the streets. Women dressed in traditional, explosively colorful headscarves and kaleidoscopic beads sew on porches. Men fish and chop wood. Smoke from cooking fires mingles with the thick rainforest humidity and sea air.
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Greenspot Travel is an a ecotourism company that arranges indigenous-minded tours, mostly in Central America. Recently, through Greenspot Travel, I stayed the Yandup Island Lodge in Panama. This modest but beautiful ecolodge, owned and operated entirely by the Guna, exists on its own island just a 10-minute boat ride from Ukupseni. The campus features 10 “over-the-water” bungalows, its own private beach and surrounding coral reefs, and terrific seafood pulled from the surrounding water. The retreat also offers a variety of half-day excursions, which include exploring deserted beaches, snorkeling, and touring mangroves, as well as visits to the Ukupseni community.
While there is much to be said for spending a day on your own island and plucking a lobster out of the sea for your dinner, what you really need to do to truly experience the area and culture is meet with the Guna people who call Ukupseni home. The Guna are a beautiful community, rich with tradition. They are believed to be the second smallest group of people in the world and were the first autonomous indigenous territory in Panama. They also have the largest per capita number of albinos globally.
In the photo gallery below you’ll find a closer look at the Guna of Ukupseni and Yandup Island Lodge.
The region of Guna Yala is an elongated territory on Panama’s Caribbean coast.Image used with permission by copyright holderUkupseni appears to be extremely crowded. The Guna own acreage on the mainland, but prefer to live in tight groups on the islands.Image used with permission by copyright holderGuna children where uniforms to class on the mainland. They speak Guna at home and Spanish at school.Image used with permission by copyright holderA Guna elder in traditional dress keeps an eye on her grandchildren.Image used with permission by copyright holderThe “over the water” bungalows at Yandup Lodge are modest and beautiful.Image used with permission by copyright holderA walkway over the reef connects the bungalows, where yoga is often done in the mornings.Image used with permission by copyright holderThe sounds of a conch shell lets visitors know when meal time is ready — the only clock you need.Image used with permission by copyright holderA Kuna boy fishing in a Cayuco (traditional canoe). Each day Kuna men head out to fish for food.Image used with permission by copyright holderSunset at Yandup Island Lodge were gorgeous. Yandup means “island of javelina” (aka peccary, or puerco de monte in Spanish). Yanu means javelina and dup/dupu means island.Image used with permission by copyright holderSunrise at Yandup Island Lodge. Yandup began as four sea-facing cabanas with one shared bathroom outside.Image used with permission by copyright holderThe island’s lone heron hunts his breakfast, much to the delight of visitors in the dining cabana.Image used with permission by copyright holderPlayón Chico is right in the center of the Guna Yala region. The nearest community is San Ignacio de Tupile on the island and Ukupa and Irgandi on the mainland.Image used with permission by copyright holderTwo Guna, a dog, and a cat occupy this island and bring the coconuts to Ukupseni.Image used with permission by copyright holderGuna children enjoy playing in the water, fishing from the dock, and flying kites.Image used with permission by copyright holderA coconut farmer takes his coconuts to trade.Image used with permission by copyright holderCorn is a popular food among the Kuna.Image used with permission by copyright holderTraditional clothing has several parts: the blouse, the sabured (skirt), the musue or dunnued (head scarf), and the uinis (bracelets and adornments of arms and feet), in addition some jewelry of gold. For centuries, the Guna women did not use these traditional clothes, but rather they painted their skin for ceremonies.Image used with permission by copyright holderA Guna man cooks lobster for dinner as his wife watches from inside their house.Image used with permission by copyright holderGuna elders do not know how old they are. Birthdays were given only when Panama said that they were a requirement for employment, at which point a birth date was assigned.Image used with permission by copyright holderA local Guna woman carries a variety of mola patterns to be turned into traditional clothing.Image used with permission by copyright holderSubsistence farming takes place, but only on the mainland. Other fruits and vegetables come from other parts of Panama and Colombia.Image used with permission by copyright holderMen return to Ukupseni with bananas from the mainland.Image used with permission by copyright holderThe villagers of Ukupseni hope to expand the community to the mainland. Land has been cleared next to the airport runway and the new community is anticipated by 2019.Image used with permission by copyright holderAlbinism is a coveted condition and those affected (1 percent of the population) are considered “sons of the moon” by the Guna.Image used with permission by copyright holder
Biscuit Basin is closed — here’s what to do in Yellowstone instead
Summer fun at Yellowstone is going to look different this year
Visiting Yellowstone National Park may look a bit different this year with the continued closure of Biscuit Basin, but it's still going to be worth it. There are so many other geysers, canyons, and wildlife to see that it would be a huge mistake to miss out on it this summer just because the path to Old Faithful is still under construction. Here's everything you need to know when entering Yellowstone this summer, and how to make the most of it according to the National Park Service.
Making the most of Yellowstone this Summer
While Biscuit Basin faces reconstruction efforts after the hydraulic explosion that happened last year, you'll still be able to enjoy wildlife hotspots like the Lamar Valley, which is nicknamed "America's Serengeti" for all of the animals you can see. Yellowstone Lake will also be open for boating or fishing excursions. The Yellowstone Lake hotel and the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel is open this summer if you don't want to camp, and a lot of the trails around Mammoth Hot Springs will be open too. You can also see Norris Geyser Basin, which is park's hottest and oldest.
No need to worry about timed entry
One of the best parts about Yellowstone National Park is that they don't require timed entry reservations like Yosemite National Park or Glacier National Park. Summer is still pretty busy, so be prepared for crowds, but the park is 2.2 million acres in total, so there's a fair amount of space to spread out. Still, you will need a park entrance pass to get through the gate.
Make your reservations in advance
Campgrounds do require reservations in advance, so make sure that you book dates before you go. If you plan to do any fishing or boating in the area, make sure that you also snag yourself a fishing or boating permit. You will also need to submit your boat for an inspection.
Expect terrible cell service
Personally, I don't know why you'd want to be on your phone with Yellowstone out your window, but keep in mind that cell service is limited here. I recommend downloading maps and the NPS app beforehand, as well as any road closure information. These closures can be sudden due to the unpredictability of Yellowstone's weather, so prepare in advance by packing a warm jacket, rain gear, and layers when you go.
Be responsible, especially around wildlife
While driving, be sure to observe posted speed limits and use the pullouts to watch wildlife, making sure that all four of your tires are fully to the right of the white line. This will allow other cars to pass easily. Seeing wildlife up close is amazing, but remember to stay a minimum of 25 yards away from all wildlife, and 100 yards away from bears, wolves, and cougars. Elks are also dangerous, so don't even think about holding your baby near one.
Inside the new era of aircraft interiors, according to a design expert
Air travel can often seem like a means to an end. You must journey hundreds or thousands of miles, and comfort takes a back seat to reaching your destination. But cramped, crowded cabins can feel like riding a school bus, making a flight something to endure rather than enjoy.
But what if an airplane cabin were a tailored space akin to a luxury hotel? What if designers considered every aspect, from the lighting to the dimensions to the materials, to ensure the in-flight experience was something to look forward to?
Deer Valley Resort will have 7 new chairlifts and over 80 new runs and more this season
Deer Valley Resort in Utah, one of our favorite ski resorts, is gearing up to deliver the largest ski resort expansion in history, just in time for the 2025/26 season. As a part of the resort's "Expanded Excellence" initiative, this project aims to expand the skiable terrain to 5,726 acres, upgrade infrastructure, and eventually redo the Snow Park base area. Here's what you need to know about the upgrades.
“With multiple large-scale projects underway, we’re strategically focusing our efforts to ensure success at every step,” said Todd Bennett, President and COO of Deer Valley Resort. “This winter’s terrain expansion — more than doubling our skiable acreage — is a once-in-a-generation transformation, and it deserves our full attention."
