Stylist to the stars, Ilaria, stops by The Manual to dissect the current state of men’s celebrity style. In this exclusive tête-à-tête, she and Triston delve into the nuances of crafting a powerful public image, the challenges of client relationships, and the one timeless rule every man should follow. Read the full conversation between two of the industry’s leading voices.
The Manual: When you’re building a character-specific wardrobe for a client, where does the process begin for you? Is it the script, a specific garment, or a historical reference?
“The first thing I do is look up the project or film being promoted and then study the schedule so I know how much room I have to play. From there usually some kind of mood board sort of starts to form in my mind – sometimes it’s inspired by the project they are promoting- such as when Chris Evans and Dwayne Johnson were promoting their Christmas movie – that’s a fun movie to go literal with. All the clothes are very festive – rich reds and greens, a lot of plaids, a New England leaning vibe on Chris especially. And sometimes it’s based on a vibe I’m into recently – right now collegiate prep is very in, a lot of the new men’s runway shows came out with that, which is an aesthetic I love. So I’ve definitely been styling looks that lean into that. A lot of socks with loafers, rugby shirts, peacoats and so on. So great for fall, especially.”
The Manual: We both know how challenging a task it is getting a client to step outside their comfort zone and usher in a new look. What’s your method for introducing a bold piece — like a double-breasted blazer or a statement boot — to a client who’s historically risk-averse?
“It depends on the client. The goal is to keep their personal style evolving and not stuck in a rut rather than forcing them into a look that doesn’t feel like them. If I approach it that way, they tend to feel themselves still and then they don’t end up regretting their look later – which is never a good thing. You want them to feel like a new and best version of themselves, not like someone else.
Adam Brody is someone who doesn’t love a double breasted suit because he doesn’t like to feel like he’s following trends, so if he’s seeing something a lot on others, it doesn’t feel right to him – he has a strong sense of individuality. But I wanted him to see that a double breasted cut is a classic cut that can work at any time, regardless of trends, and that there was a version of it that could feel right on him. That’s how we ended up with that beautiful green Prada he wore to the Golden Globes this year.
This can be applied to timepieces as well. You’ll get a guy who has a very specific idea of the type of style or brand – or often it’s about the size, like if a guy is used to a bigger, more rugged watch sometimes it’s hard to veer him into trying something a little leaner and chic like a Cartier Tank. But sometimes that little detail can be the thing that really modernizes an outfit and helps it to not feel new. That’s why for The Style Edit I created for Watchfinder & Co., I chose to edit my selection by these specific style categories. Because that’s really how I approach the process of picking out a watch for a look. Fashion has been leaning into the Slim and Chic style for a while now, but recently I am finding myself drawn to a lot of other styles as well – such as the 80s power watches and the preppier styles, to name a few.”
The Manual: The awards season will be upon us very soon, and from a practical standpoint, how do you manage the logistics of pulling pieces for multiple high-profile clients during the busiest season of the year? What’s your secret to maintaining those crucial brand relationships under pressure?
“This year will be particularly interesting and tricky because we have a lot of guys in the running. It’s a lot to wrap your head around. I try to get ahead of it by reaching out to certain brands for each client and coming up with custom looks. That in and of itself is challenging because you want to work with brands you have relationships with and maintain the relationships you have built for your client with the brands, but you also want to explore and evolve and try new relationships so they try new things.
It’s also important that I find that time to sit and focus on what I want this look to be and come up with a clear idea to pitch to the brand and the client. That takes laser focus and given how busy we are, that can be tricky too. But once everyone is on board and the look is being locked in and being created, it does make things more streamlined. Otherwise, you’re just trying on a trillion different looks and it can definitely get chaotic!! But it’s fun. It’s my favorite time of year for work because of the stakes and the amount of eyeballs for your work is really rewarding.
Once upon a time it was really just more focused on finding the right tux, but now that men have come such a long way in the game of fashion, there’s also so much focus on accessories like the right watch and good jewelry – those relationships are important as well. Almost more so these days. A lot of client/brand relations happen there now, and the right timepiece or a good brooch on the lapel can make or break a look.”
The Manual: In your own words, “A great watch isn’t just an accessory—it’s the exclamation point of a look.” Men’s accessories, particularly luxury watches, are huge now. What trends have you noticed in Hollywood regarding watch styles, and which specific timepieces have you used in the past to style celebrities for the red carpet?
“For me, the watch is a huge part of the equation. I feel a man’s look without a watch, or that bare wrist, feels absolutely incomplete. Just as a women’s stylist would never send a client on the red carpet without jewelry, I can’t imagine styling a look without the right watch. And certainly, I’m not alone there. Luxury watches have certainly exploded in the fashion industry and especially in the red carpet industry – and when I say ‘red carpet’ it’s really not just a premiere. I had a ton of guys go to events like the US Open and F1 and so on this year – and you can bet every single man there had on a luxury watch – at least the ones I styled!
My go-to watch styles really depends on the client as there is no wrong watch style–there are so many different watch aesthetics that work, it just has to align with that client’s look, or equally, with the look I’m going for with the outfit. It just needs to feel like one consistent aesthetic from head to toe.
Going back to the various categories I chose for The Style Edit, even within those categories, I like to play and try variations of it. For example, with the slim and chic styles that have been dominating the style industry, a lot of people’s go-to is the Cartier Tanks. But it’s fun to play around and try new versions, so recently on a client of mine, I went with the from Jaeger Le Coultre Reverso. It fits that aesthetic so well, but it’s a different take on it. Or for Sam Nivola for the Emmys, I did go for a Cartier Tank but chose to lean into the trend in an almost ironically aggressive way and put him in the Tank Louis in Mini. On the opposite end of the spectrum, with Dwayne Johnson, I tend to lean more into what I like to call the action hero category – he wears a lot of Panerai watches, Rolex, and IWC pilot watches and so on. I wanted to do a different take on his look for the Venice Film Festival and ended up leaning more into the preppy and sporty category with the gorgeous Alpine Eagle from Chopard.”
The sartorial approach to storytelling
The Manual: Your new collection is described as reflective and blends a great sense of nostalgia with modern wearability. Can you pinpoint a specific client or red carpet moment from your past that was the direct “spark” for this aesthetic direction?
“I would say, there’s probably a different client (or a few) that I was inspired by for each different category of The Style Edit. They all have such varied different personal styles, which I value so much as their stylist. Personal style is how you keep any style looking timeless. If it feels organic to them, it will never feel dated.
I definitely was very inspired by James Marsden for the preppy and sporty watches. For slim and chic, probably my biggest inspo was Rami Malek. For the action hero styles, I was of course inspired by Dwayne. For the 80s power watches, I was most inspired by Barry Keoghan as he loves a striking gold number. For bold colors, I was thinking of Aaron Taylor Johnson as he appreciates a watch whose color fits a look, and I myself love a tonal look.”
The Manual: When designing this collection, were you thinking of solving a specific styling problem you’ve frequently encountered with your clients?
“I think it was more about sharing my approach to styling and my approach to styling timepieces – which is often led by a mood or specific aesthetic. I like to approach styling from a storytelling aspect. I like what I’m trying to do or say with the look to feel cohesive from head to toe.
On Watches & Hollywood Style Icons
The Manual: Who are Hollywood’s best watch wearers and what makes their style so effective?
“From my roster, I would say that James Marsden, Aaron Taylor Johnson and Barry Keoghan are the biggest lovers of watches. James is very knowledgeable and loves so many different styles and brands, so he’s the most willing to try different styles and brands, as well as more under the radar brands. It keeps his wrist style really unique.
Aaron is an Omega guy and really knows his stuff and is just very passionate about it – he really likes his watches to feel cohesive with his look, For Barry, when it comes to watches, the bolder the better. He’s incredibly adventurous with his style, and his watch selections reflect that as well. That said, I have noticed that Dwayne gets quite a lot of coverage in the press for his watch game. I think it’s because he is so willing to try different styles and brands as well.
Outside of my own roster, John Mayer might take the cake. Apparently, he has a massive watch collection. And A$AP Rocky is someone who consistently gets a lot of attention for his watch game – I think his watch style is really bold.”
Beyond just the brand, what makes someone like Jeff Goldblum or Michael B. Jordan such an effective watch wearer? Is it their confidence, how they mix it with other pieces, or something else entirely?
“Goldblum’s style is just so eccentric and has so much flair, and that playfulness translates into his watch game. For Michael B. Jordan, he seems to have a very well-curated, unusual, and interesting collection. He clearly just knows his stuff and has good taste, so that’s going to come across confident when it comes to his style.”
The Manual: In your opinion, what’s the biggest mistake men make when choosing and wearing a watch as part of their overall look?
“I would say that it’s about proportions and aesthetics. An 80s power watch aesthetic a la Patrick Bateman in American Psycho or Michael Douglas in Wall Street vibe, isn’t going to pair as well with, say a very minimal Jil Sander or The Row aesthetic. Just as an example.
As for proportions, a watch that takes up a lot of wrist real estate, is going to clash with a skinny suit that has skinny lapels and a skinny tie. Someone who really, really knows what they’re doing can use those proportions ironically. But it’s very hard to pull off.”
The Manual: Could you break down the styling theory behind pairing a watch with other accessories? For instance, how do you approach metals (mixing or matching?), leathers, and even fabrics to create a cohesive story on the wrist?
“I definitely put a lot of stock into whether or not I want a look paired with a leather strap watch or a steel strap watch. It really has to do with how sporty I want the look to feel. Or sometimes it’s more about how much bling and shine I want the look to have. But I’m more relaxed when it comes to mixing metals – I actually think it can make the look feel more effortless. I mean, my first instinct is to match the metals of the watch to the jewelry, but sometimes I think mixing is the better move. Or if there’s a ring or bracelet or chain I love for a guy but it doesn’t match the metal of the watch, I’ll just let it be mixed.
As for the leather strap, that’s where the bold colors category comes in, as I love a tonal look. I love a look that plays within, let’s say, the blue color family and is then paired with a blue watch strap or blue dial. I recently put Chris Evans at TIFF wearing a green knit and paired it with a green Cartier Tank, and it’s just that kind of attention to detail that makes the look sing.”
On Actionable Styling Tricks
The Manual: For the men at home, what are your top styling tips that anyone can apply at home?
“The aforementioned tonal look is one of the easiest tricks anyone can apply. It makes everything look clean, cohesive, well thought-out and is very elongating and flattering. And I do think proportions are everything. Slim lapel should equal slim tie, slim watch, slim shirt collar and so on. Baggier pants equals chunkier shoes.
And so forth….
And lastly, it helps to know what you’re going for with your look. It really keeps it from looking chaotic and sloppy.”
The Manual: What is one simple but transformative tailoring adjustment you always recommend to your clients that men can easily ask their own tailor for?
“I always, always start with tailoring the waist of the pants. It allows it to sit on the right spot on your waist or hips, as it was intended by its design, and when that happens suddenly the leg fits right and the hem tends to hit at the right spot. And actually saves you from having to do a whole lot of other tailoring.”
The Manual: Layering can make or break an outfit. What is your golden rule for combining different textures like wool, denim, leather, and knitwear without looking overwhelmed?
“You can get away with mixing a lot of different patterns and fabrics together if you stick to one color family. Otherwise it helps to color block, but you sort of have to know what you’re doing there – that kind of layering works best with solid prints.”
The Manual: Many of our readers want to invest in their wardrobe wisely and make strategic sartorial choices. What is the one “client-approved” foundational piece you believe every man should own that delivers the most style mileage for its cost?
“Well, I mean, not to be obvious, but there is no better wardrobe investment than a good watch. It’s the only item that will never go out of style, that will likely increase in value and be a literal investment, that will handle wear and tear better than most items of clothing. And that can become a family heirloom to be passed on for generations.
I really believe that a good watch should be a staple for anyone. I think that’s why I felt this partnership with Watchfinder & Co. felt so organic and special to me. For years, I’ve been helping both clients and guy friends find watches to collect, and it’s just so valuable to find a place that has such a large breadth of brands and styles – they have literally thousands of watches from over 70 brands spanning eight decades – that’s really valuable as it’s so important for an investment of this nature to really capture personal style and stand the test of time aesthetically.
And perhaps almost even more important if I’m going to recommend a purchase to someone, is that I know for certain that it’s a trusted source. They have a 60-step authentication process! That alone makes the process of finding a watch so much less stressful and therefore so much more fun. It means I can focus on what I fall in love with without worrying about the rest.”
The Manual: Last but not least. In your opinion, what are the core essentials that every man should have in their wardrobe as they attempt to build it up to a certain standard?
“A good trouser goes a long way towards elevating an entire outfit. You can have the simplest knit or t-shirt but if you pair it with the right pants, it can look really amazing. So that’s my number one. A great pair of black Oxford shoes is a must. Can be dressed up or down and polishes up any look.
A go-to t-shirt is important.
Every man should also own: one great coat, one great tux (and tux shoes and bow tie and tux shirt) for weddings and so on, a go-to suit for weddings, parties, and funerals. And a good collection of handsome knits.”
