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How to lace men’s dress shoes: A complete guide to the top methods

Did you know there was more than one way to lace a men's dress shoe?

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Many situations warrant dress shoes, such as formal occasions, work, or holidays. However, as important as the shoe’s design is to achieve your look, it’s also key to know proper lace-tying etiquette. While it might seem minor to some, how you tie your laces can add an extra touch to your outfit that takes it to the next level. How you tie your dress shoes will largely depend on the type of laces and shoes you have. Those with thicker laces might be easier to tie with a simple method rather than one that is more intricate. Brands typically recommend leaving pre-laced shoes as is to get the best style. Most of the time, laces should be either black or brown, but colorful hues have become more prominent as many men look to express their sense of style more. Keep reading for our guide on how to lace men’s dress shoes.

Criss Cross method

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The most common lacing technique is the criss-cross technique, which is most likely to be used with dress shoes. Criss-cross is the easiest method if you’re looking to tighten up your laces for a more comfortable fit. This technique will also give you the shortest laces at the end, avoiding an excess amount that hangs while walking. 

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To tie your laces accordingly, insert the lace through the bottommost eyelets. As you move up, insert the left lace through the right eyelet directly above. Afterward, pass the right lace through the left eyelet above. Repeat until the entire lace has been moved through all the eyelets. Finally, repeat all steps for the next shoe. Adjust and tighten the laces to find your best fit. 

Straight bar lacing

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Considered another common lacing technique for dress shoes, the straight bar lacing method is an elegant way of tying your laces. While it’s a common method for dress shoes, you won’t likely find this type of lacing on everyday sneakers, which generally are laced by the criss-cross method. Giving the shoe a sleeker and more formal look, this technique also has a few drawbacks. Due to the limited movement of the laces, you won’t be able to adjust or tighten, making it hard if you don’t get the perfect fit at first. 

Pass the lace through the bottom eyelet on both sides, ensuring you end with an even amount of lace on both sides. Ensure the laces pass through the front of the shoe to create a straight bar. With the left shoelace, pass it behind the facing and through the left eyelet. Afterward, pass the same lace through the right to create a parallel straight bar. Once you have your second bar, take the right shoelace, or the longest lace, and insert it through the right eyelet underneath the facing. Once again, pass the lace through the left eyelet to create a third straight bar. Repeat the steps until you’ve laced through all eyelets. Ensure no lace is visible besides the straight bars. 

Diagonal method

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Unlike the previous methods, diagonal lacing is a unique technique that adds a little flair to your footwear. Less common than the rest, the idea of this lacing method is to mimic the look of DNA. A great conversation starter, the diagonal method is an easy way to make your look more unique. 

Starting with your shoe facing you, slip the shoelace through the right eyelet above the facing. Take the left shoelace through the bottom left eyelet underneath the facing, ensuring the laces are even. Thread the left shoelace through the right eyelet placing it from outside toward the tongue. Now, take the right shoelace and pass it through the opposite left eyelet. After, thread the lace through the opposite right eyelet, lacing it to go from outside toward the tongue. Repeat until you’ve passed the laces through the eyelets. Once you’ve reached the top, lace the shoelace through the top eyelets below the facing, ensuring they stay flat. 

Lattice lacing

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Lattice lacing is considered one of the most intricate ways of tying your shoes but has the most unique look. The key to this method is patience and maneuvering the laces carefully to achieve the correct look. Although a lengthy process, the look is one-of-a-kind and worth the multiple attempts to achieve. 

Starting with your shoe facing you, pass the shoelaces through the bottom eyelet pair underneath the facing to remain unseen. Take the left shoelace and insert it in the right eyelet three from the bottom. Have the lace pass from the outside of the facing towards the tongue. Grasp the right shoelace and thread it through the left eyelet three from the bottom, and this process should form an X shape. Take the right and left shoelaces and insert them underneath the facing into the eyelets above to form a line on each side. Now, place the left shoelace through the right eyelet one from the bottom, going from the outside of the facing toward the tongue. After, take the right shoelace and thread it through the left eyelet, one from the bottom, and also go from the outside toward the tongue. Once again, take the right and left shoelaces through the eyelets above and underneath the facing. With the left shoelace, thread it over the bottom left diagonal, under the top left diagonal, and lace it through the right top eyelet under the facing. 

Vice Versa

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The most geometric lacing method, known as the vice versa, is hard to come by, but it provides a unique look. Almost forming a shape over the tongue, the intricacies of this lacing allow the wearer to get a distinctive look. 

With the shoe facing you, place the shoelace through the bottom eyelets over the facing. With the left shoelace, thread it through the right eyelet. After, take the right shoelace and thread it through the left shoelace. The laces should be passed through under the facing, remaining unseen. Next, place the left shoelace through the left eyelet, forming a straight bar. Repeat this process on the other side. After, repeat the previous steps until you’ve reached the top. Pass the shoelaces through the top eyelets below the facing. 

Over Under 

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The Over Under method is an easy way to keep your laces in place and tight. This lacing technique results in symmetrical Xs over the tongue, giving your shoes a fun touch.

Start by slipping the shoelaces through the bottom eyelets over the facing to create a straight line. Pass the left shoelace through the right eyelet and into the left eyelet. Ensure the lace is passed under the facing for an invisible look. Now, take the left shoelace and lace it through the right eyelet.  Take the right shoelace and pass it through the left eyelet. Have the laces pass from the outside of the facing toward the tongue. After forming an X, repeat the previous two steps until you have one available eyelet pair remaining. With the last eyelets, pass the shoelaces below the facing. 

Leslie Leon
Leslie is a Los Angeles-based writer and content creator. She is always researching and finding the latest fashion trends…
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