If you consider yourself somewhat of a watch aficionado as I do, then you are already aware of the many luxury brands offering top-notch timepieces. With so many options available to men out there, finding the ones that speak to you can be a conundrum as there are a few serious contenders for your wrist. Two of my favorites are Rolex and Audemars Piguet, considered two of the premier brands in watchmaking. It’s nearly impossible to go wrong with either one, and after reading this article, you will be able to decide for yourself which one is the best for your tastes.
Brand recognition
Even if you’ve never worn a watch in your entire life, you know the Rolex name and its status as an internationally renowned luxury brand. Although Audemars Piguet (also known as AP) is not as well known outside of industry circles, the truth is that many consider it to be an even better brand than Rolex, and its exclusivity gives it special status amongst watch enthusiasts.
What sets Audemars Piguet apart from other brands is that it is an immediate statement piece, regarded by many as one of the holy trinity of watchmaking. Despite not being considered in this trio, Rolex is arguably the most easily recognized watch brand globally and their excellence is undeniable.
Qualifying craftsmanship and quality between two iconic brands
With brands of this caliber, there is no question that craftsmanship and quality are top-notch, and according to watch expert Paul Altieri, “both companies exemplify excellence in these aspects” and continue to lead the industry. At the end of the day, it is a numbers game, with Rolex producing over a million timepieces a year, while AP is more exclusive with production numbers around 50,000. This vast difference in scale means that AP has more dedicated watchmakers crafting each watch, ensuring that every feature is streamlined to perfection, from the guilloché-engraved dials to the crafted cases with polished bevels. Additionally, AP watches boast premier craftsmanship that is evident from even the briefest of glances, although it must be noted that Rolex is no slouch in this department.
Rolex can also note their exceptional bracelet craftsmanship as well as cases that are particularly strong and reliable. The brand is also known for being light years ahead of most other watchmakers and are leaders in advanced movements. AP watches possess elevated complexity and are likely to suffer more from minor issues, but they are thoroughly committed to staying at the forefront of horological advancements.
So, which of these two has the edge in this department? Rolex slightly bests AP here due to better day-to-day use and durability, although AP can boast greater attention to detail and higher complications for true watch enthusiasts.
Checking accuracy
For the type of precision and accuracy I demand from my watches, Rolex definitely makes the grade, particularly since they feature Superlative Chronometers on their timepieces that ensures they are regulated to an accuracy that’s -2/+2 seconds per day. Currently, every single Rolex (aside from their Cellini collection) meets this level of excellence.
Audemars Piguet is not known for this level of accuracy, but it should be noted that the accuracy in their range of watches depends on a number of factors, including movement, model, the length of time that has transpired since it was taken in to be serviced, the level of activity of the wearer, and watch placement when worn. With all these variables taken into account, it is easy to see why AP has a wider range in regard to accuracy levels.
Breaking down technology and functionality
As stated before, Rolex continues to reign supreme as the leader in horological achievement, with their hermetically sealed Oyster cases and Perpetual movement prime features that are now considered industry standards. And it doesn’t end there either, as the brand can also lay claim to inventing the helium escape valve, a technology that enables gases to be released from inside the watch case to keep the watch’s crystal in place while underwater as pressure builds up. This patent was granted to the company in 1967 and is one of the primary reasons Rolex is beloved by watch aficionados. Other notable features the company has made inroads in include the Parachrom hairspring to enhance anti-magnetism and shock resistance in 2000, and the ceramic bezel on the GMT-Master II in 2005.
Not ot be outdone, Audemars Piguet has crafted its own unique complications, including the jump-hour wristwatch, the first of its kind in 1921, and also in 1986, the first automatic tourbillon, which has become a de facto feature across an array of grand complication timepieces. When it comes to functionality, it is difficult to compare Rolex versus AP as they tackle technology from totally different perspectives – both of which yield fantastic results for their consumers.
An array of models and collections
This is where it truly comes down to your personal tastes and the image you want to convey with your aesthetic. Both Rolex and AP come fully loaded with mass appeal and sophistication, so one cannot really go wrong with either one. However, they each have their own identities that give them special status in the market. Rolex has its Oyster Perpetual, whereas Audemars Piguet has its Royal Oak, and while these are not found across all of their models, they are featured in the majority, so it is up to men to decide what works best for them.
Audemars Piguet has made the transition from crafting traditional dress watches to variants that come with different complications. Their Royal Oak Offshore , an updated and sportier collection of Royal Oak, debuted in 1933, and in 2002, the Royal Oak Concept collection was launched to showcase AP’s horological supremacy.
In the following years, AP downscaled production of dress watches like the Edward Piguet, the Jules Audemars, and the Millenary. In 2019, Code 11.59 was launched, paying homage to Royal Oak with its singular design.
Price and resale value
The more expensive of these two is hands down AP, and Rolex offers a far lower entry-level price than most luxury brands. As Audemars Piguet is a more prestigious brand with more exclusivity, it only makes sense that their collections cost significantly more. Rolex counters with a lower-market brand called Tudor, which offers more affordable prices annually than Rolex. They also have their Tudor range that is even more affordable and features many stellar designs for men of distinction.
The resale value of a Rolex is stronger than an Audemars Piguet, and in some instances, they even appreciate. The only other brand that rates higher is Patek Philippe, another noted watchmaker. AP timepieces hold their value very well over time too, but rate slightly below these two brands for retaining value. What both companies bring to the table, however, is a strong secondary market performance. Most of their watches sell for premium rates, with their vintage and discontinued models showing strong demand and increases in value over time, making them great assets that prove their worth over time.
Audemars Piguet vs. Rolex: Who has the edge?
It’s a toss-up as to which of these two iconic watchmakers is best. AP may lay claim to better craftsmanship than Rolex, but Rolex is tops in reliability. For those who have a penchant for handcrafted, artisanal watches, Audemars Piguet is your best bet. And while Rolex makes exquisite timepieces, AP models are considered works of art. At the end of the day, the variables between the two and your personal preferences are what will decide which brand you add to your collection.
