Is Rolex rewriting the rules of the luxury watch game?

What the closure of key Rolex hubs means for watch owners

By Triston Brewer Published May 14, 2025

Rolex Land Dweller set — Super Niche / The Manual

In a strategic move that could reshape the luxury watch industry, Rolex is reportedly taking decisive action to consolidate its control over distribution and after-sales service. According to Jing Daily, the brand is reportedly shuttering third-party service centers, particularly in key markets like China, in a likely bid to strengthen its grip on every aspect of its timepieces’ life cycle. This bold decision comes at a pivotal moment, as pre-owned Rolex prices soften after years of explosive growth—raising questions about the future of secondary market dynamics.

The closure of independent service hubs would suggest more than just a logistical shift—it would indicate an intent to rewrite the rules of luxury watch ownership. A pivot toward in-house servicing would mean Rolex would have direct influence on pricing, authenticity, and even the resale value of its watches. This realignment could have far-reaching consequences, from squeezing out grey market dealers to reshaping how collectors buy, sell, and maintain their prized timepieces.

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‘Super hubs’ may be the future of the industry

‘Super hubs’ would operate as megastores through the combination of retail sales, service, and certified pre-owned sales. The blueprint would involve one-stop Rolex destinations with consumers informed of trade-in programs. Refurbished watches, which are brand-certified, could be available alongside new releases, giving Rolex direct control over pricing and scarcity while sidelining grey market dealers.

What the move could mean for collectors

One area of the industry that would be most affected is the pre-owned market as Rolex-certified CPO programs could result in devalued independent dealers. Service speed will continue to be an issue that must be addressed – will in-house repairs be quicker, or will centralization create bottlenecks in execution? Price manipulation is also a risk that must be factored into the equation, as this reset could artificially stabilize or inflate secondary markets.

Triston Brewer is a journalist, creative director, fashionisto, and jetsetting digital bon vivant. Brace yourself!

Topics

Watches

Fashion & Style

Oris Hölstein edition 2025: A timepiece redefining luxury

The Oris Hölstein 2025: Where Swiss craftsmanship meets modern elegance

Oris Hölstein Edition 2025 with illuminated green dial

Oris unveils its Hölstein Edition 2025, a masterpiece blending Swiss precision with avant-garde design. This year’s release is just 250 pieces, an exclusive offering celebrating the brand’s heritage while pushing horological boundaries. The 40mm stainless steel case features a sleek, polished finish, while the gradient green dial—inspired by the dense forests of Hölstein—captures light with mesmerizing depth.

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Tudor introduces Black Bay 54 in lagoon blue with refined aesthetic

Summer vibes: Tudor's black bay 54 lagoon blue transforms heritage dive watch aesthetic

Tudor black bay 54 lagoon

Tudor adds "Lagoon Blue" to the Black Bay 54 collection. This new model transforms the dive watch, which took ideas from old watches, into a refined timepiece that anyone can wear—it fits beach life and summer activities perfectly. The watch costs $4,350. While the new color keeps the 37mm size, it completely changes how the watch looks.
The Black Bay 54 "Lagoon Blue," reference M79000-0001, keeps the original’s 37mm diameter and 11.2mm thickness—ensuring the watch wears well on a wide range of wrist sizes. Tudor has changed up several parts of the design, creating a softer, more current look for their smallest dive watch.
The biggest change is on the rotating bezel. Instead of the old black anodized aluminum insert, there’s now a mirror-polished steel bezel. The steel features a sandblasted 60-minute timing scale, and this polished surface matches the updated hands and hour markers. These now have mirror-polished frames containing white Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova, replacing the previous gold finish.
The pale blue dial, with its grainy texture, gives the model its "Lagoon Blue" name. This color joins a wave of recent watches using similar "Tiffany blue" tones across the industry. Tudor itself offered a similar shade on the Black Bay Chrono "Flamingo Blue" earlier in 2025. It’s clear the market wants this look, even if plenty of brands are offering it.
Tudor also changed how the watch connects to the wrist. The "Lagoon Blue" comes only on a five-link stainless steel bracelet with polished center links, which is different from the original BB54’s three-link rivet-style bracelet. That older bracelet was a nod to Tudor Submariners from the 1950s. The new five-link design highlights the watch’s modern direction and keeps Tudor’s T-fit clasp for easy adjustments.
The Caliber MT5400 automatic movement stays the same—it offers a 70-hour power reserve and COSC chronometer certification, along with Tudor’s own accuracy standards of -2/+4 seconds per day. While it doesn’t have the METAS Master Chronometer certification found on some new Tudor models, the movement is still perfectly suited to the watch’s purpose.
Tudor’s advertising highlights the "Lagoon Blue" as a watch for a gender-neutral beach lifestyle. It’s not aimed at collectors who chase vintage-inspired pieces—just like Tudor did with the Black Bay 58 Burgundy and solid gold models. This shows Tudor’s move away from strictly history-inspired watches, aiming for a broader, more current appeal.
The $4,350 price is a small increase over the black dial bracelet version, reflecting the more complex five-link bracelet and improved finishing details. Even so, the watch is still reasonably priced within Tudor’s dive watch range.

Fashion & Style

How microbrands are quietly revolutionizing the watch world

How microbrand watches are carving a niche in the luxury timepiece market

A row of four luxury watches.

For generations, Rolex, Cartier, and Breitling have been industry leaders in the luxury watch market, their dominance and legacies revered within and outside of the horological community. Over the last few decades, a slew of notable microbrand watches have recently risen in prominence, each offering premium craftsmanship and limited edition exclusivity that has earned high marks from experts and consumers alike.

While these indie brands may not possess the heritage of the usual suspects in the luxury watch market, what they have done is create dynamic designs that have resonated with a dedicated fan base. We are currently in the midst of a microbrand revolution, and here, we break down how microbrands are quietly revolutionizing the watch world in their own singular way. In this deep dive, we explore the top microbrands making waves, their standout features, and whether they hold long-term value for collectors.