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Men with curls: Here’s how to finally get the haircut that works for you

Embrace your curls, and you'll enter a whole new world of styles

Hair loss products are growing
Cottonbro Studio / Pexels

For the most part, we live in a straight-hair world. Personally, this has never been an issue for me — while I am follicly challenged, my hair has always been reasonably well-behaved. The occasional stray curl pops up at the end of a strand when I grow it out, but I never faced the challenges that men with curls often have to confront.

These challenges can feel formidable. Curls can be unruly and hard to tame, and that might seem like a limitation. But the reality is very much the opposite — there are plenty of great-looking choices, provided you know what you want, get a great barber or stylist, and arm yourself with a little knowledge.

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Know your curls

Man standing in cold with scarf. and hair blowing in wind
Sebastian Voortman / Pexels

The first step in this process is simple awareness. Many men with curly hair don’t even know that there’s an evaluation system for their curls or that it offers three possible options.

The nomenclature is decidedly basic — S2, S3, and S4, with S1 representing straight hair. That system does come with some definitions, though, so let’s set up some priorities before we go through those.

“You need to find the right person to cut your hair so that it’s going to enhance your style,” says Stephen Marinaro, an experienced barber and stylist who goes by The Salon Guy in his YouTube videos.

“This is not the kind of cut where you walk into a random barber shop or some hair salon where they spend fifteen minutes and butcher your hair. [It] requires somebody who really understands shapes.”

Start with wavy curls, which have a shape all their own. They’re known as “Type 2” curls, and they come in several different forms — a slight wave, the defined S curve, and thicker waves that curl right at the roots and usually have a coarse texture.

Type 3 curls, meanwhile, can be tight or loose, and the tighter ones can also be classic corkscrew curls. The loose ones still have that S pattern, so the approach to styling and haircuts is often very different within this category.

The last type, S4,  can be all over the curly-haired map. They can be very tight with little definition, and you’ll even see them appear as the letter Z.

Best haircut for wavy curls

Man with wavy hair
Anastasiya Lobanovskaya/Pexels / Anastasiya Lobanovskaya/Pexels

If you’ve already got wavy hair, congratulations — you’ve hit the genetic lottery. Hair trends and cultural preferences change all the time, of course, but wavy hair curls have traditionally been perceived as extremely handsome and attractive. Timothee Chalamet is the most recent example of this, but there are plenty of others.

Wavy hair may give you an advantage in the looks department, but you still have to capitalize on it. You need that great barber who can find the best shape for your features and help you make the right choice.

Take the textured crop, for instance. It’s one of the best ways to take advantage of your wavy curls by adding layers, and you can easily use sprays like sea salt or light mousse products to give you more definition.

There’s a lot more you can do, too. For contrast, you can get sweet results from a crop, a fade, or an undercut. Plus, there’s always the novelty of a middle part that men like Chalamet occasionally sport, go with, or a curtain fringe that makes a unique personal statement.

Best haircuts for Type 3 curls

Lalandrew/Shutterstock / Lalandrew/Shutterstock

You can certainly go with some of the same styles with Type 3 curls. A tapered fade is a great look that puts your curls on top, or you can go with a more traditional layered cut or an undercut.

With any of these choices, however, pay attention to the particulars of your curls. You’ll need to use any one of a variety of products, from curl creams to conditioners that you can leave intact. Depending on the weight and texture of your hair, you may need to add a light gel for bounce or hold.

Then there are the more exotic possibilities. Specifically, we’re talking Afros, or you can go with finger coils or twist outs. Your barber or stylist will become your new best friend once you make one of these choices, especially if you like variety and your intent is to change your look frequently.

There’s one possibility we haven’t mentioned yet, primarily because it’s. . . different. Yup, that’s right, we’re talking about the mullet. If you’re bold enough to try it, curls in the back are a great way to make a statement with your mullet that your curls are ready and willing to party.

You can even fade or taper the sides of your mullet, but the one caveat here is that you should do some mental prep so you can handle the comments you’ll get. These may be compliments for being daring, or something else, so deal accordingly.   

Best haircuts for Type 4 curls

Man with brunette hair standing in front of flowers.
Pexels/Cottonbro Studio / Pexels

If your hair lands in this category, your curls will be full of character. They’ll also require plenty of attention, along with some extra knowledge. You’ll have to be aware of  your natural volume, texture, and the level of shrinkage you get with in different haircuts and styling tactics.

The most basic cut you can choose in this category is a short buzz cut with defined edges. It’s a sharp look that’ easy to maintain, and it’s great for your scalp, too, because it gets to breathe. You won’t need to do as much maintenance, but you will need to do regular tuneup cuts, and you’ll need a soft brush and some balm to keep your curls clean and properly conditioned.

The next easiest look is a classic fade. It may be listed as a ’90s style, but curls put a new spin on it, provided yours have the density to get the look right. You’ll need to shape the edges and trim the top, and be sure to keep moisturizers, creams, and oils handy to prevent breakage.

Other looks with these curls include the aforementioned Afros, twist-outs, and braids. All of these choices require regular scalp work to stay clean and moisturized. Make sure you do your design with damp hair using a quality butter or gel.

To summarize, there’s a world of possibilities, so don’t shortchange yourself when it comes to your curls. There’s a whole new you waiting out there for you, so embrace your curls and get to work to find your ultimate look.

Bob McCullough
Bob McCullough is a freelance author and journalist who has published dozens of novellas and novels, and his journalism has…
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