The Manual Wind: The “Affordable” Tag Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 Tourbillon Chronograph

By Ian Schwam February 3, 2016

the manual wind affordable tag heuer carrera 02 tourbillon chronograph 16tag02b

The time has finally arrived, and it is being told by the most accurate complication; the tourbillon. When Jean Claude Biver took over Tag Heuer, it was obvious there were big changes to come. The first was the announcement of an affordable tourbillon. This complication, first designed by Breguet in the 1800s, is bult for accuracy. Counteracting the force of gravity on the movement, the aesthetically pleasing visual of the tourbillon is meant to keep the most accurate time in all eight positions a watch can be in. This well out of reach complication sat at the top of every brands line with a six figure price tag. Jean Claude Biver decided he would put the tourbillon within reach, and he has.

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The Tag Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 Tourbillon is a 45mm modular case made up of twelve different components. This modular design is reminiscent of Biver’s last brand resurection; Hublot. Made of titanium, both brushed and blackened, this is a sport tourbillon. The movement is an in-house caliber COSC certified chronograph automatic tourbillon with a 65 hour power reserve. The dial has an industrial look that fits well with this multi finish and component case. Black crocodile or rubber strap with titanium buckle completes this piece.

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This is a ground breaking introduction by Tag Heuer. A timepiece of a similar complication from the likes of a brand like Audemars Piguet would set one back nearly two hundred thousand. This, the first of what i am sure will be an entire line of tourbillons, is reasonably priced under $20,000. I am sure this comes to the dismay of many other brands in the watch world. The Tourbillon is meant to be the pinnacle of complication and desire and in a few months will be within arms reach. Lets hope the allure of this mesmerizing complication is not lost with the introduction of this bargain timepiece.

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Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: Glashutte Original Senator Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date

manual wind glashutte original senator seventies chronograph panorama date go 70 chron

Iconic watches are often targets. The best of the best, of anything, will forever be replicated. The original anything is always up on that pedestal, but what happens when the imitation ends up be just as desired? That might be the case with another offering out of Glashutte, Germany. With its design not that far off of the iconic Genta designed Patek Philippe Nautilus, Glashutte Original gets elegantly sporty with its latest; the Senator Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date.

Set in stainless steel, this T.V. screen cushion shaped case houses the newly designed Glashutte caliber 37-02. One of my favorite chronograph movements on the market right now, this movement leaves nothing to be desired. Fully in-house, this chronograph boasts a central stop seconds hand, 30 minute and 12 hour counters, a small seconds with power reserve indicator (70 hour power reserve), flyback function, and not to leave out the two wheel fifteen jewel big date complication that Glashutte is known for.

Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: Blancpain Villaret Chronographe Pulsometre

manual wind blancpain villaret chronographe pulsometre blanpuls

One of the great ironies in the watch world is the chronograph complication. Although equally classic and useless, it happens to be a staple in every man’s watch collection. While the function of a chronograph, a stopwatch, is not very useful these days, it is the multiple hands and symmetrical dial layouts that have made this the most popular complication to produce. Blancpain, producers of some of the most classic Swiss timepieces, has taken the classic chronograph to a new level with the introduction of the Blancpain Villaret Chronographe Pulsometre. Known for their movements and dials, Blancpain has has brought their strong points to the forefront with this latest release.
Now larger than their previous Blancpain Villaret Chronograph, the enamel and hand painted dial fills out this above average 43.6mm case size. With help from the classic Villaret design, this larger case set in rose or white gold, is much more dramatic on the wrist with the stark white of the enamel dial taking most of the wrist space. A slim bezel makes for more dial surface area. The unique feature of this piece is the Pulsometer painted on the perimeter of the dial. Chronographs generally cater to plains and automobiles to calculate speed. This piece is a tribute to the older chronographs designed with doctors in mind.
Under the dial lies the Blancpain in house caliber F385 movement. Beating at 36,000vph, this column wheel chronograph incorporates a silicon balance spring and also has a flyback function. Unique to Blancpain, each of their mechanical movements incorporate a 100 hour standard power reserve setting them apart from a lot of comparable movements. A sapphire crystal case back and textured rotor round out this new flagship chronograph.
Over the years, Blancpain has been able to set themselves apart from the competition all the while maintaining their classical watchmaking DNA. The Blancpain Villaret Chronographe Pulsometre with its larger diameter and new movement is a testament to that.

Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: The Chronograph Spirit

manual wind chronograph spirit

The watch industry has seen an influx of brands in the last few decades. Brands both resurrected from the depths of dormant watch history and conceived of passionate skilled students of the art. When marketing takes a backseat to passion and skill, truly transcendent timepieces emerge. That is of the case of Peter Speake-Marin. As if watchmaking was his destiny, Speake-Marin was schooled and trained, restoring and developing all before the age of thirty. Having designed and built high-end complications for the well known movement manufacturer Renaud & Papi (now owned by Audemars Piguet) his next step was to take his name from the bench to exhibition with the creation of his namesake brand; Speake-Marin. The Piccadilly was Speake-Marin's first release. Now, more than a decade later, this discernible case design is the cornerstone of the brand.

Having utilized the Piccadilly case once again, the first Speake-Marin Chronograph hits The Basel Watch Fair 2014. Taking the design cues of the Automatic Spirit Mark 2, Speake-Marin introduces the Spirit Seafire Chronograph. This Titanium case 42mm Chronograph has the fervor of English sophistication and sport. A matte dial in horizontal symmetry displays minute and hour chronograph counters, date, and a running seconds signified by the 'Topping Tool' insignia frequently used by Speake-Marin. All the hands, including the Speake-Marin spade-tipped hour hand, are filled with SuperLuminova for nighttime legibility. The Chronograph counters displayed with both arabic and roman numerals are a unique touch giving this chronograph an almost regulator type feel. Inside lies a caliber C99001-D automatic Chronograph movement with forty-eight hour power reserve. This single barrel chronograph is a great pairing for this piece giving this titanium case a durable and high performing movement allowing for true reliability and sport. Attach this piece to your wrist with a hand-made brown calf leather strap and tang buckle for a meeting of old English charm and industrial sport.