Ulysse Nardin transforms its avant-garde Blast collection into spectacular high jewelry territory with the Blast [Sparkling Rainbow], an eight-piece limited edition priced at CHF 451,700 that fuses haute horlogerie with gem-setting artistry. The timepiece showcases 211 rainbow-colored sapphires totaling 13.33 carats across the entire watch construction.
The original Blast collection, introduced in 2020, drew inspiration from stealth aircraft design to marry high function with unconventional aesthetics, establishing Ulysse Nardin’s reputation as avant-garde icon. This high jewelry interpretation elevates that foundation through unprecedented gem-setting complexity while maintaining the collection’s distinctive architectural language.
Central to the technical achievement sits the in-house UN-172 skeletonized movement featuring flying tourbillon, silicon escapement, and platinum micro-rotor visible at 12 o’clock. Operating at 18,000 vibrations per hour with 72-hour power reserve, the caliber demonstrates Ulysse Nardin’s silicon innovation expertise dating to 2001’s legendary Freak timepiece.
The 45mm white gold case receives invisible setting treatment across 211 individually selected sapphires cut into 85 unique shapes. This rainbow spectrum creates seamless gradient effect encircling the entire watch while employing “mystery setting” technique that allows light passage through gems, creating floating stone illusions without visible metal frameworks.
Gem-setting complexity extends beyond case architecture to encompass bezel, dial, crown, and clasp applications, ensuring complete chromatic coverage across every visible surface. The rainbow arrangement requires precise color matching and graduated placement to achieve the seamless transition effects that define the piece’s visual impact.
Construction challenges multiply when combining high jewelry techniques with complex movement architecture. The skeletonized dial must accommodate both sapphire setting requirements and tourbillon visibility while maintaining structural integrity and shock resistance expected from luxury sports watches.
The integrated white rubber strap and deployant clasp receive matching sapphire applications, completing the rainbow aesthetic while ensuring practical wearability. Despite extensive gem setting, the watch maintains 50-meter water resistance, demonstrating successful integration of jewelry and timepiece functionality.
Limited production to eight pieces emphasizes exclusivity while highlighting the intensive handwork required for each example. The mystery setting technique demands exceptional gem-setting expertise, with each sapphire requiring individual cutting and placement to achieve the floating effect.
This release continues Ulysse Nardin’s tradition of pushing horological boundaries through unconventional materials and techniques. The brand’s silicon escapement innovations combine with high jewelry craftsmanship to create timepieces that challenge traditional luxury watch categories.
The CHF 451,700 pricing reflects both the extensive gemwork and limited availability, positioning the piece among the most exclusive offerings in Ulysse Nardin’s contemporary catalog. Eight-piece production ensures immediate collector status while showcasing the manufacture’s high jewelry capabilities.
