Skip to main content

Perfectly Washed: Tortoise Jeans

One doesn’t need to be a denim expert to know that the last several years have been cruel to the denim industry. An oversupply of skinny fits, colored denim, an aging population and surging demand for heritage-looking menswear sent many a brand packing and tailored sportswear into the black.

Recommended Videos

Now help is on the way in the form of one California brand, whose obsession with sustainable laundering is showing how blue denim might be poised for a major comeback. Debuting this fall, Tortoise Jeans just might have the best washes and finishes of all its peers, but the brand isn’t stopping there. It’s aiming to create the industry standard of the future, with the most sustainable denim laundry in the US (dubbed ECO-PRK) and the company’s proprietary Wiser Wash methodology to reduce the industry’s environmental footprint.

Included, for example, is a patent-pending application of ozone, designed to bleach yet cut out toxic chemicals in doing so; a locally sourced ingredient that eliminates stonewashing and the need for materials such as pumice stone that produce sludge; and a robust water treatment system that uses 80% less water and recycles it in a 1:1 ratio.

“You can achieve a very cool fashion-forward look or authentic look without drawing on harmful processes traditionally associated with washing jeans,” insists Tortoise Jeans co-founder Lukus Eichmann, whose background includes designing and developing denim for companies such as Opening Ceremony, Haute Hippie and Rogan Jeans. (Business partner Kevin Youn is equally the veteran, having spent 12 years at Koos Manufacturing.)

Indeed washes like the vintage-looking 1015, made with ozone; the 1005, made without any kind of traditional stonewashing techniques; the painterly-looking 1009, colored by hand so as to produce richer color variations; and the marbled-looking 1012 are all stunning, incredibly lightweight and soft. For those in search of something even more handcrafted, there’s the Cheyls fit and Kinixys jacket, made with camo jacquard patches coated with an Italian wax additive designed to wear over time to a rugged, natural-looking indigo.

The items come at a price: jeans average $365 while jackets come in at $425. Eichmann puts it all into perspective, however, when he explains that unlike most brands, Tortoise Jeans uses locally sourced materials—that is, dead stock, ends of rolls or discarded quantities from bigger factories. In doing so, it cuts out the demand for custom-ordered fabrics that often requires water-intensive and other not so ecologically friendly processes. In turn, each limited batch might use the same wash process or formula, but it is unlikely that the consumer will ever see the same garment again because of the limited quantity Tortoise Jeans has to begin with. Each pair then has a different wash, rip and color variation and everything is cut, sewn and washed in Los Angeles.

Eichmann hopes ECO-PRK might one day become the kind of model facility where people can go to learn more about sustainability. For now, though, slow and steady, like the tortoise that inspires the brand’s slow philosophy, suits the brand fine. Asked whether the capsule line will expand for spring, Eichmann explains, “It will, when it’s the right time for the company. But at the moment, our strength is in producing the best denim in terms of how we wash it and the materials that we use. We don’t want to lose sight of that.”

Available at Ron Herman, Atrium, Machus and, for holiday, American Rag.

Tim Yap
Former Digital Trends Contributor
Contributing writer Tim Yap was born in Kuala Lumpur and lived in Hong Kong, Singapore, Vancouver and Toronto prior to moving…
Tiffany & Co. revives legendary Atlas watch collection
Tiffany & Co. has officially relaunched its iconic Atlas® watches
the Atlas watches feature graphic Roman numerals and streamlined silhouettes

To the surprise of absolutely no one, Tiffany & Co. has resuscitated its storied Atlas collection, reimagining the legendary Roman numeral motif for today's discerning watch collectors. Released originally in the 1990s and inspired by the iconic Atlas clock at Tiffany's Fifth Avenue flagship, these timepieces bring together timeless elegance and contemporary sophistication.

Precision craftsmanship, unmistakable style

Read more
Adidas Originals dominates Paris Fashion Week with bold style
Adidas Originals takes over Paris Fashion Week
person tying adidas shoes

With just under a year left until the FIFA World Cup lands in the United States, Mexico, and Canada, it’s no wonder that every brand has football fever. Brands like Nike and New Balance have launched their football iterations, which will gradually build excitement over the next year. However, football isn’t only coming to our wardrobes, it’s officially landed on the runway. Last month, Adidas Originals took their football inspiration to the next level via a series of collaborations with multiple fashion designers during Paris Fashion Week. While it seems like football-inspired looks, also known as “blokecore”, is here to stay, no one has established this trend more than Adidas. With new iterations of their various football-inspired footwear, Paris Fashion Week becomes the center of Adidas Originals’ football world, and their multiple collaborations are only a piece of what to expect over the next year from the brand.

Adidas brings football to the runway at Paris Fashion Week

Read more
The art of timeless design: Why Urban Jürgensen is one to watch
How Urban Jürgensen redefined haute horlogerie with its remarkable comeback
Urban Jurgensen has returned to the forefront of horology

The revival of historic watchmaker brand Urban Jürgensen has been a marvel to witness as it once teetered on the brink of obscurity. Today, UJ has re-emerged as a benchmark in the industry, working under the direction of a visionary new leader. Founded in 1773, the brand faced the possibility of extinction in the late 20th century before being revitalized by a group of watchmaking purists. Currently, Urban Jürgensen is getting rave reviews for blending centuries of craftsmanship with modern innovation — proving that true luxury is timeless.

Tradition meets state-of-the-art innovation

Read more