Skip to main content

Gilded Age: The Label You Should Have Known About A Decade Ago

Casual menswear line Gilded Age has been a purveyor of unique, high-quality denim jeans and related items including chinos, woven shirts, knits and leather jackets since it was founded in New York 11 years ago by designer Stefan Miljanic, who previously worked at such well-known brands as Tommy Hilfiger, Banana Republic and Abercrombie & Fitch. A somewhat underground label that is not widely known despite its longevity, the brand offers usually utilitarian-inspired clothing that is classically masculine, rich in design details and never overtly trendy. It’s even one of the few brands whose distressed/ripped jeans styles are appealing instead of ugly. Last week Miljanic discussed Gilded Age’s success, gave me a preview of the forthcoming fall 2016 collection, which is inspired by dockworkers and will be available in August, and shared what it currently has in store for spring/summer. In addition to its online store, the brand is also sold at its own brick-and-mortar shop near The South Street Seaport in New York and in better independent stores throughout the world.

1
Image used with permission by copyright holder

Your brand is famous for your terrific premium denim jeans. Tell me about the ones here.

They are for fall and many are made in Japan. Any piece of denim goes back to the heritage of that dockworker. There is a beautiful ripped jean that kind of looks like someone has been working in it for years, whether it’s on the docks or the boats or the market. There is also a beautiful selvedge denim that we have used since Day One. It comes in raw with a lot of character. Then we have natural indigo denim that’s very authentic and very rare. No one does this in the United States. The same natural indigo is also used in vintage-look jeans. We also have overdyed 14 oz slubby denim in a dark and medium dark wash, a made in Japan work chino with repairs that are all done by hand and a lined flannel chino and cords that are backed in flannel. For denim it’s blacks, grays or some interesting new colors and developments.

What percentage of the Gilded Age collection is denim?

Roughly around 50 percent. Woven shirts are 20 to 25 percent and knits are 15 percent. Leather outerwear is getting bigger now.

2
Image used with permission by copyright holder

What is the cost of the jeans?

The opening is around $198. Then it’s in the $200 to $300 range. And some of the made in Japan jeans it’s $300+.

How many jeans fits do you offer?

We have two different fits now. We offer The Morrison which is a 14” leg opening and The Baxten which is our 15” leg opening.

What are the highlights of the current spring collection?

The inspiration for this season was the late ’70s – 1978, basically. It was inspired by sitcoms like “Happy Days” and kids hanging out in diners and all that stuff. And the movie “Dazed and Confused” because that also deals with the subject matter. It was a little bit about color and living good and having a great spring and summer. There are looser fits and some of the denim is rolled up.

Would you say that workwear is your most predominant inspiration each season?

Yes. In the past three or four years I have been inspired by various movies like “The Wild One” or riders and we were more into biking and that kind of stuff. Now we really feel like [the tide] is coming back to our end again and I feel like there is really nothing that did better in the past than classic American utility because all the jeans and everything started from utility. It’s inspirational and something that America is known for. It’s a pillar of casual and always does well. After we started this Americana trend back in 2004 to 2007, I think this city utility is something that brings back emotion. You just need a great pair of beat-up jeans with a leather jacket or a utility denim jacket.

3
Image used with permission by copyright holder

Where do you manufacture?

For bottoms it has kind of shifted from Japan and Italy and now it is between the USA and Japan. We shifted Italian production to the USA. For denim we have about 20 percent made in Japan and 80 percent made in the USA. When you have to spend a day of work on a single jean you go to Japan because they are perfectionists and meticulous and they take the time and effort. It’s kind of like painting a picture; it takes that long. The knits are made in Peru and the leather jackets in Turkey. We do everything like the huge brands – we manufacture in five different countries.

What’s the your favorite piece you’ve created in these 11 years?

I think some of our best work probably was done in denim and I would say some of the cashmere hand knits that had patterns. As far as the jeans, I’d say that some of the work on the natural indigo – it’s hard.

Another thing that stands is when I went to Japan years ago when I was doing some natural dyeing on knits which required the guy to do it in an organic way in his own studio in boiling pots. When I came the next day to see the finished product he had to climb the roof because he was drying them on the roof. To achieve that particular color it had to be exposed to direct sunlight. We did that in denim as well and used tree bark, which dyes it very unevenly and creates this very unique look.

Who is the Gilded Age guy?

He’s in the know. He’s worldly, he’s well educated and he travels. He’s not into the latest fashion trends but is someone who understands good product: the quality, the craftsmanship and someone who wants to buy a pair of great jeans that fit well and are well made and unique. We always emphasize the quality and the craftsmanship and that’s really where we reside and we own that part of it. There are a lot of people who would probably like it but we are one of those hard to find brands. We don’t advertise and we don’t seek out major promotions so if people discover it, it is a true discovery. People find it, test it and if they like it they buy it and then they come back. I think that’s the reason we are around. We’ve done this in the last 11 years just in the power of our own way and the product really works for the people who buy it.

Editors' Recommendations

Jacob Kienlen
Former Digital Trends Contributor
Jacob Kienlen was a culture writer for The Manual. Born and raised in Portland, Oregon, he has considered the Northwest his…
We found those iconic Deion Sanders sunglasses, and they’re only $67
Look like Prime, stay winnin' like Prime
Deion Sanders wearing Blenders

There are a lot of things that Deion Sanders is good at: baseball, football, and coaching the latter, for instance. But one that he is excelling at off the field is promotion. Sure, he is a name and a face, and it seems like it would be easy. But when you develop your own sunglasses with a brand like Blenders, you feel the need to promote harder than usual. And now, you can snatch up a pair of these viral sunglasses yourself but don't expect them to show up on your doorstep as fast as they went viral.

Creating a viral sensation
Before his Colorado football team took the field and triumphed over rival Colorado State in a double overtime victory, his entire team showed out with their own pair of Prime 21s, the new collaboration between "Neon" Deion and Blenders sunglasses. Of course, that is never enough, as he gifted big names in sports like Stephen A. Smith (sports TV host) and Dwayne Johnson (former wrestler and football monster himself) a pair of their own to promote to their giant followings. Not to mention, another commentator called him out before the game for wearing glasses in interviews. We're not saying it was orchestrated, but the timing was perfect.

Read more
ZENITH Watches DEFY Extreme Carl Cox edition lands September 25, limited to 100 watches, priced at $30,100
There are only 100 pieces AND you get to meet Carl Cox
ZENITH Defy Extreme Carl Cox watch

Luxury watch enthusiasts, mark your calendars! ZENITH is set to release a horological marvel that's bound to send ripples through the world of timekeeping. The DEFY Extreme Carl Cox edition from ZENITH watches, a limited masterpiece, is slated to land on September 25. With only 100 pieces available and priced at a sumptuous $30,100, this timepiece is a tribute to both precision and fashionable aesthetics.
A fusion of craftsmanship: The ZENITH DEFY Extreme Carl Cox Edition
ZENITH's collaboration with Carl Cox, an ambassador for the brand, has given birth to an extraordinary creation. At the heart of this men's watch beats the most rugged and fastest 1/100th of a second chronograph, setting the tempo for accuracy that is second to none. But this watch is not just about attention to detail; it's also a nod to Carl Cox's musical heritage. The design takes cues from his favorite set of turntables, seamlessly blending the worlds of horology and music. The chronograph sub-counters have fine circular ridges that look like vinyl records, and the one at 9 o’clock has a Carl Cox logo on it. The number of sub-counters, three, also reflects Cox’s pioneering three-deck DJing style.

The ZENITH DEFY Extreme Carl Cox edition is a stunning watch that combines the best of both worlds: a classic design with a modern twist. This watch features a 45mm matte microblasted stainless steel and yellow gold case, with a 12-sided yellow gold insert under the bezel and crown guards. This blend of materials exudes a minimalistic and retro-futuristic look; it's a visual masterpiece that will undoubtedly turn heads. The case is water-resistant to 200m and has a screw-down crown for added security. The dial is open-worked, revealing the intricate workings of the El Primero 9004 in-house calibre, a chronometer-certified movement that boasts a dual regulating organ, one for timekeeping and one for the chronograph.

Read more
Omega’s new Seamaster ETNZ Edition for the 37th America’s Cup offers a striking design
The turquoise accents are inspired by the team's sail
Americas cup commemorative Seamaster

Omega, one of the most beloved brands in men's watches, is commemorating the 37th America's Cup with the release of a special edition Seamaster capable of functioning at twice the depth world-class divers are capable of. The “Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m,” which features a striking black and turquoise design, will cost $13,300.

The turquoise on the watch is a tribute to the New Zealand sailing team, which Omega has sponsored since 1995. Team New Zealand’s logo also features an image of the America’s Cup itself. Unsurprisingly, the “Auld Mug” features on the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean, acting as the second hand’s counterweight.

Read more