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The most underrated dress watches for men in 2025

10 Underrated dress watches every collector should consider in 2025

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Longines dress watch
Longines

The best modern dress watches aren’t discovered in packed showrooms – they’re found by collectors who delve to look beyond the hype. We all know the perennial favorites, but there are a slew of seriously underrated men’s dress watches that are true horological gems worthy of mentioning and possibly adding to your collection. A great dress watch goes beyond being a mere statement piece; it tells a story built on your personal style. Men’s watches that are often overlooked but offer exceptional value and craftsmanship include the following:

IWC Aquatimer Automatic

Classic IWC dress watch with blue dial
IWC


Encompassing a rugged elegance for the modern man, the IWC Aquatimer Automatic is a compelling option initially recognized as a premium dive watch. With its clean dial layout, refined case, and 42mm sizing, it is a timepiece perfectly suited for both the ocean and the boardroom. The internal rotating bezel features an uncluttered design, and wearers can choose between a black or sunburst blue dial, two sophisticated choices for collectors in search of technical mastery and understated elegance.

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Nomos Autobahn Neomatik

AUTOBAHN NEOMATIK 41 DATE SPORTS GRAY
Nomos Glashuette

German precision combined with minimalist design is centered in the Nomos Autobahn Neomatik, an inspired design featuring an intricate curved date display, sleek profile, and heat-blued hands that show off the expertise of the in-house movement. Its small case at 41mm gives it a more refined, understated appeal that is ideally suited for modern men who value both form and function. 

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Doxa Sub300T Caribbean

Doxa SUB 300T Caribbean
Doxa


Whoever held the notion that dive watches aren’t dressy has never been introduced to the Doxa Sub300T Caribbean, a timepiece boasting a gorgeous gradient blue dial, 42.5mm case proportions, and a sleek profile that accentuates its versatility. Orange accents, polished case edges, and a sunburst dial intertwine beautifully on this piece, making it a bold choice for collectors who aren’t afraid of going against the conventional. 

Breguet Classique

Classic Breguet with black leather band
Breguet


True watch aficionados will be privy to the singular style and elegance of the Breguet Classique, one of the finest examples of watchmaking tradition in the industry. With its slim profile and hand-engraved movement that can be viewed through the caseback, it’s a must-have for collectors interested in the unparalleled execution of style. 

Grand Seiko Spring Drive ‘Omiwatari’

The Grand Seiko with prominent face
Grand Seiko

Inspired by the mystical ice cracks (‘Omiwatari’) on Japan’s Lake Suwa, near the birthplace of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movement, this elegant watch features a textured ice-blue dial that captures its distinct beauty. At only 39.3mm wide and just 9.8mm thick, its zaratsu-polished case and unique Spring Drive movement deliver exceptional precision accuracy (±1 second/day) with an intricate, smooth seconds sweep. Collectors who appreciate quiet sophistication over status symbols will gravitate towards the Omiwatari as it offers a unique story and movement technology no other brand can reproduce.

Choosing the perfect dress watch lies in your hands

For the discerning watch collector, adding an underrated luxury dress watch to a collection is about choosing one that aligns with your personal taste. Whether you’re pairing one with a suit for a formal event, or for an occasion that warrants a dynamic, yet understated vibe, your watch collection. deserves something with real substance.

Triston Brewer
Triston Brewer
Triston Brewer is a journalist, creative director, fashionisto, and jetsetting digital bon vivant. Brace yourself!
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Editors’ Recommendations

Frederique Constant unveils new Healey limited editions in pale blue
Racing heritage: Frederique constant's healey collaboration shifts to pale blue inspiration
Frederique constant's healey editions

Frederique Constant has extended its partnership with British carmaker Healey, marking two decades of collaboration. This year, two new limited editions have been introduced, departing from the traditional British Racing Green. Instead, they feature pale blue dials inspired by early 1960s Austin-Healey 3000 MKII models. Priced at €1,695 and €3,395, these timepieces continue an unusual collaboration that began in 2004.
At the heart of the partnership is a single historic vehicle: the ex-Works 1953–55 Austin-Healey 100S Special Test Car, registration NOJ393. This car competed in the World Sports Car Championship and was sold unrestored at Bonhams in 2011 for £843,000 ($1,000,000). Since then, it has been restored to its 1955 Le Mans specification.
Unlike typical automotive collaborations that focus on brand logos and color matching, Frederique Constant’s approach is different. The brand aims to capture the essence of this specific car and also supports Healey classic car rallies and community programs. Over 20 years, the partnership has produced many timepieces, most featuring the 100S’s distinctive green livery.
This year’s editions take a new aesthetic direction. The pale blue sunray dials with metallic coloring are inspired by the early 1960s Austin-Healey 3000 MKII, moving away from the traditional green to reflect the broader Austin-Healey palette while maintaining a connection to racing heritage.
The three-handed automatic variant features a curvaceous 36mm polished steel case, incorporating both Frederique Constant and Healey dial elements. Applied hour markers, including an oversized 12, are hand-polished silver with white luminous material. The bright red central seconds hand adds a sporty, dashboard-inspired touch, while the dark blue minute track flange matches the co-signing.
The chronograph edition measures 41mm and has a polished steel case with a two-counter layout. Bright red accents appear on both the central chronograph hand and the 30-minute subdial, which sits opposite the small seconds display. This color coordination visually connects to automotive instrumentation while maintaining horological function.
Both models are paired with blue leather straps and closed case backs engraved with the historic 100S. Each is limited to 1,888 pieces, emphasizing the partnership’s exclusivity while still offering reasonable availability for enthusiasts.
The automatic model costs €1,695, making it an accessible entry point into the collaboration. The chronograph is priced at €3,395, targeting collectors seeking additional complications. These price points are competitive with similar Swiss offerings and provide a sense of automotive provenance.
Frederique Constant has also reintroduced the 40mm 2023 Classics Vintage Rally Healey Automatic, featuring a steel case and British Racing Green dial. This model becomes a core collection piece, losing its limited edition status to broaden accessibility.
This partnership demonstrates how authentic collaborations can move beyond typical co-branding, emphasizing genuine community engagement and respect for automotive heritage. The result is a series of distinctive timepieces that appeal to both watch and car enthusiasts

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Citizen celebrates 40 years of aqualand with limited anniversary edition
Four decades deep: Citizen's limited aqualand edition celebrates electronic depth-sensing innovation
Citizens aqualand 40 years

Citizen celebrates 40 years of underwater innovation with the Promaster Aqualand 40th Anniversary Limited Edition, a tribute to the 1985 model that introduced electronic depth meters to professional diving. This $595 limited edition retains the iconic design elements of the original while incorporating modern materials and a commitment to environmental responsibility.
The first Aqualand was a breakthrough in 1985, being the world’s first diver’s watch with an electronic depth meter. This innovation transformed professional diving by providing real-time depth data alongside standard timekeeping functions, setting a new standard for underwater instruments.
The anniversary edition closely mirrors the distinctive look that made the original famous. The crown is positioned at 4 o’clock, three push buttons are thoughtfully placed, and the round depth sensor at 9 o’clock echoes the original’s signature feature. The updated model uses a gray, brushed stainless steel case with gold accents, lending a celebratory feel for the 40th anniversary.
Technically, the new Aqualand maintains the pioneering spirit of its predecessor. The digital display shows time, calendar, alarm, and chronograph functions, and in dive mode, it measures depth and dive time. The ascent rate alarm warns divers if they ascend too quickly, enhancing safety during decompression.
The BENEBiOL™ polyurethane strap is made from plant-based materials, offering durability in water while reducing environmental impact. This eco-friendly approach underscores Citizen’s commitment to responsible manufacturing without sacrificing performance in marine environments.
Powered by the Cal.C520 movement, the watch operates within ±20 seconds per month and supports full digital functionality. The watch meets ISO standards for 200-meter water resistance, making it suitable for professional diving. It features luminous hands and markers, a unidirectional rotating bezel, a screw-down crown, and a 1/100-second chronograph with a 100-minute counter for precise underwater timing.
The case back features a special design inspired by the original sensor, adding a unique touch exclusive to this anniversary edition. Limited to 5,800 pieces and launching in July 2025, the watch is aimed at both diving professionals and collectors who appreciate technical innovation in timepieces.
At $595, the Aqualand 40th Anniversary Edition offers a chance to celebrate the history of electronic diving watches while delivering modern performance, proving that thoughtful evolution keeps classic technologies relevant and reliable. Find out more at www.citizenwatch.com.

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Noah and Timex release lighthouse watch following sun and moon success
Long island heritage: Noah's timex lighthouse watch honors golden ellipse legacy
Noah x timex collab

Noah continues its watch partnership with Timex through the Lighthouse Watch, following last summer’s sold-out Sun & Moon Watch. That earlier collaboration became one of 2024’s most popular affordable timepieces. This new $228 release draws inspiration from Long Island history and pays homage to an iconic watch design.
The Lighthouse Watch reflects Noah designer Brendon Babenzien’s connection to his Long Island roots, specifically the Fire Island Lighthouse near his childhood home. Babenzien explains that the lighthouse was always in the background of his life, making it a meaningful motif for this watch.
Design-wise, the watch is a clear nod to the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse, with a softly rounded, gold-plated stainless steel case measuring 31 x 35mm. This silhouette, paired with a croco-pattern leather strap, evokes the elegant, curvy shapes of the 1970s while remaining accessible thanks to Timex’s manufacturing. The minimalist white dial features a charcoal illustration of a lighthouse at six o’clock, serving as the centerpiece of the design. Gold-tone baton hands and subtle Noah NY and Timex branding at three and six o’clock complete the look, while the absence of hour markers keeps the focus on the artwork.
This collaboration stands out from typical fashion watch releases by integrating a personal, artistic touch that fits seamlessly with Noah’s aesthetic—mirroring the brand’s graphic tees and tailored pieces. The watch is powered by a reliable quartz movement, protected by a mineral glass crystal, and offers 30 meters of water resistance for everyday use. The 18mm lug width and compact size make it suitable for a range of wrist sizes, though the elliptical case may appeal most to those open to alternatives to round watches.
Pre-orders run from June 5–12, with delivery expected in November 2025. The $228 price point positions the Lighthouse Watch between entry-level fashion watches and basic Swiss options, reflecting Noah’s accessible luxury ethos and appealing to both streetwear fans and those who prefer preppy style.
Notably, this is the first Noah watch Babenzien plans to wear himself, despite not being a watch collector—a testament to the design’s broad appeal for those seeking a unique, easy-to-wear piece rather than a collector’s item. The collaboration demonstrates how fashion brands can create meaningful, affordable watches through authentic partnerships and storytelling, attracting both core customers and watch enthusiasts looking for alternatives to luxury icons.

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