Skip to main content

The art of timeless design: Why Urban Jürgensen is one to watch

How Urban Jürgensen redefined haute horlogerie with its remarkable comeback

Urban Jurgensen has returned to the forefront of horology
Urban Jurgensen

The revival of historic watchmaker brand Urban Jürgensen has been a marvel to witness as it once teetered on the brink of obscurity. Today, UJ has re-emerged as a benchmark in the industry, working under the direction of a visionary new leader. Founded in 1773, the brand faced the possibility of extinction in the late 20th century before being revitalized by a group of watchmaking purists. Currently, Urban Jürgensen is getting rave reviews for blending centuries of craftsmanship with modern innovation — proving that true luxury is timeless.

Tradition meets state-of-the-art innovation

Urban Jürgensen’s revival is rooted in bold technical advancements. While many established brands lean heavily on reissuing their vintage collections, UJ has taken a different path by developing in-house movements that are entirely new and honor traditional watchmaking principles.

Recommended Videos

The P8 caliber, introduced in recent years, is one example of their philosophy. A hand-wound, ultra-thin movement, it comes with the distinctive Geneva stripes, hand-beveled bridges, and a free-sprung balance — all of which are tenets of haute horlogerie. But it doesn’t end there, with the incorporation of modern materials and precision engineering, ensuring performance that meets contemporary standards.

This merging of old and new extends to the brand’s singular designs. Urban Jürgensen’s signature ‘onion’ crown and blued steel hands remain as staples, but the latest cases now feature ergonomic refinements for better wearability. The end result are watches that are both historic and refreshingly modern.

Handcrafted perfection: The fine art of finishing

What truly sets Urban Jürgensen apart from other brands in the industry is its uncompromising dedication to handcrafting. Each timepiece boasts more than 300 hours of intricate craftsmanship, with master watchmakers dedicating days to polishing, engraving, and assembling every component by hand. Many models feature solid gold, hand-guilloché dials, while others showcase grand feu enamel—a rarely used technique nearly lost to time. Movement components receive black polishing – a rare and labor-heavy method that creates a mirror-like finish. This level of dedication guarantees that no two Urban Jürgensen watches are the same. In an era of mass production, the brand stands committed to true handcrafted luxury.

Discreet luxury for discerning collectors

While other luxury brands prioritize volume, Urban Jürgensen maintains exclusivity through limited output. With annual production below 200 pieces, owning a UJ watch is a rarity reserved for true collectors and connoisseurs. This extremely limited approach appeals to collectors who value substance over hype. While other brands seek out new trends, Urban Jürgensen remains concentrated on timeless elegance — crafting watches meant to live across generations.

The blueprint for reviving a heritage brand

Many heritage watch brands struggle to balance history with innovation, often leaning too heavily on nostalgia or straying too far from their roots. Urban Jürgensen, meanwhile, has triumphed at the art of revival while embracing modern technical excellence. This respect for legacy, combined with progressive execution, makes Urban Jürgensen a blueprint for brand revivals.

Why Urban Jürgensen matters in modern horology

In a market teeming with over-marketed releases, Urban Jürgensen represents true watchmaking at its finest. Their revival proves that authentic craftsmanship, exclusivity, and innovation are the unsung heroes and keys to enduring success. For collectors in search of heirloom-quality watches that transcend trends, Urban Jürgensen offers something truly special: watches that honor the past while defining the future.

Triston Brewer
Triston Brewer is a journalist, creative director, fashionisto, and jetsetting digital bon vivant. Brace yourself!
Topics
Bulova’s new moon watch has a cosmic aventurine dial
This Bulova limited edition captures the cosmos on your wrist
Lunar Pilot x BuDiiLab Limited Edition

Bulova and BuDiiLab have teamed up to bring their own unique take on NASA history through horological excellence with the release of their recent Lunar Pilot x BuDiiLab Limited Edition, a timepiece that combines NASA’s revered moon-landing legacy with contemporary Italian design. The exclusive is limited to only 500 pieces worldwide, with its 43.5mm stainless steel chronograph paying homage to Bulova’s 1972 Apollo 15 mission heritage while embracing modern luxury through its aventurine glass dial — a brilliantly deep blue canvas representing the cosmos. The high-frequency quartz Precisionist movement ensures precision worthy of space exploration, with a sweeping seconds hand that circles like a satellite in orbit.

Where space-age engineering meets artisanal expertise

Read more
Sternglas’ new Bauhaus dive watches blend elegance with 200m water resistance
These dive watches rival luxury brands in elegance
The new Marus 2.0 watch

German precision and technical excellence are front and center with the latest release from microbrand Sternglas. Their iconic Bauhaus aesthetic is featured in the Marus 2.0 divers, two gorgeous timepieces that combine minimalist design with water resistance of up to 200 meters. Two refined variants are in this collection — a striking navy blue and a classic matte black — each housed stainless steel cases of 39.5mm with a sleek, brushed finish. The watches’ clean dials are a tribute to Bauhaus core principles of form following function, while the superluminova-coated markers and hands ensure legibility in the ocean’s darkest depths.

A masterclass in accessible luxury and precision engineering

Read more
Bremont’s new Polar White dive watch survives 500m depths in style   
This $4.5K Bremont Diver combines arctic style with Submarine strength
SUPERMARINE 500M, POLAR WHITE

Bremont has taken dive watch craftsmanship to the next level with its latest release, the stunning Supermarine 500M Polar White, a timepiece that seamlessly merges rugged functionality with refined British elegance. Crafted from 904L stainless steel — a premium alloy preferred for its superb corrosion resistance — this 43mm diver boasts a stunning polar white dial that evokes the icy landscapes found in deep-sea exploration. The watch offers water resistance up to 500 meters and a helium escape valve, positioning it as an excellent tool for serious divers, while its sapphire crystal caseback showcases the undeniable beauty of Bremont's BE-36AE automatic movement, a COSC-certified workhorse with a 38-hour power reserve.

A winning combination of technical mastery and aesthetic purity

Read more