The Manual Wind: Ulysse Nardin Steel Anniversary

By Ian Schwam Published June 14, 2016

The lugs of a timepiece are extremely important. I would liken then to the rims of a car. These four identical pieces are not only necessary for the use of the item, but greatly effect the appearance aesthetically. The point at which the strap is attached to the watch case can alter a watches personality greatly. In the case of the new Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture 170th Anniversary, the lugs define the piece.

un170email — Image used with permission by copyright holder

At 40mm in diameter, this stainless steel dress piece is quite different from your typical Ulysse Nardin. In the past, limited edition timepieces were made in precious metals only. Here we have a limited edition of 170 pieces made in steel. The dial of this piece is hand painted enamel which is more consistent with past UN limited pieces. Blue roman numerals are matched with blue steel hands and a blue crocodile strap to make this classic yet casual dress look. Below the in-house crafted dial lies the UN in-house caliber UN-320 movement which features a Silicium hair spring and anchor escapement. The lugs of this limited piece and of the Classico line are what make this piece though. Strong, angled, and pronounced, they take your average 40mm dress piece and add strength to the design.

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Ulysse Nardin is like many other brands, constantly introducing limited edition pieces. Most are complicated and/or precious metals. This piece is unique in that it is a dress piece made of stainless steel. This does not detract from the piece one bit, rather making it more unique. The dial and movement are both in-house products that truly exhibit the DNA of Ulysse Nardin. Detail in dials, technology and new materials in their movements, and blue accents describe UN and this piece encompasses it all for their 170th Anniversary.

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Watches

Former Digital Trends Contributor

Contributing writer and watch enthusiast Ian Schwam dons an expert knowledge of all things watches. Having spent a decade in…

Fashion & Style

H. Moser makes rose gold rival to Rolex’s Rainbow Daytona

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H Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Rainbow

H. Moser & Cie. has introduced its most ornate Streamliner so far with the new Tourbillon Skeleton Rainbow edition. This watch directly competes with Rolex’s Rainbow Daytona in the very expensive sports watch category.
Available in rose gold (CHF 175,000) or stainless steel (CHF 125,000), the 40mm watch is a showcase of both watchmaking and jewelry skills. The bezel is set with 60 carefully selected baguette-cut colored sapphires.
The Streamliner’s cushion-shaped case created unique challenges for gem-setters. Each sapphire had to be chosen for its color to create a rainbow gradient around the bezel, and each one also had to be cut to a different size to fit the case design.
At the center of this watch is Moser’s skeletonized HMC 814 automatic movement, visible through the open dial. The large one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock serves as both a technical feature and a visual focal point.
A look at the back of the watch reveals similar attention to detail. The Moser-branded rose gold rotor is skeletonized, exposing the gears, wheels, bridges, and springs of the movement underneath.
Production numbers will be limited, not by a set amount, but by the time and complexity required to make each one. This highlights the skill involved in crafting every piece.
The Rainbow Streamliner stands apart from Moser’s usual simple design, which is known for its fumé dials and minimalist approach. Still, it maintains the brand’s focus on independent watchmaking, while entering a category associated with brands like Rolex and its Rainbow Daytona watch that has become highly sought after on the resale market.
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Fashion & Style

Pink pelagos joins Tudor collection for giro d’italia

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Tudor's pink pelagos

Tudor has released a new chronograph, the Pelagos FXD Chrono Pink, as part of the Pelagos line. This limited edition was created for Tudor’s partnership with the Giro d’Italia, the famous cycling race in Italy.
Only 300 pieces will be made, with a price of £4,650 (about $5,000 plus tax). The watch pays tribute to the Maglia Rosa, the pink jersey worn by the race leader during the three-week event. Pink-accented Tudor watches aren’t new-last year, the brand introduced a pink-dialed Black Bay Chrono in partnership with Inter Miami, the soccer club partly owned by Tudor ambassador David Beckham. However, the new Pelagos FXD Chrono Pink uses pink as an accent rather than covering the entire dial.
A notable feature is the tachymeter scale, which is calibrated for cycling speeds instead of the automotive speeds usually found on chronographs. This cycling-specific scale wraps around the dial, showing Tudor’s commitment as the official timekeeper of the Giro d’Italia, a partnership that began in 2023.
The watch measures 43mm and uses a black carbon composite case, making it lightweight and technical qualities important for sports watches. The crown and chronograph pushers are made of titanium for added durability and lightness. The case is 13.2mm thick.
Inside is the Calibre MT5813, based on the Breitling 01 chronograph movement. This COSC-certified calibre offers accuracy within 2/+4 seconds per day and has a 70-hour power reserve, so it can run for nearly three days without rewinding.
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Fashion & Style

Chrono24 reveals top luxury watches by age group

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Chrono 24 Gen Z Millenial Boomer Watch

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The company in Karlsruhe examined transaction information to determine which watches are bought more frequently by each age group. The results showed both expected patterns and some surprising exceptions.
Rolex models are in first place in four out of five age categories, but the specific choices change quite a bit. The Datejust is the top pick among buyers under 30. The Submariner leads with people aged 30-39. The Daytona is most popular with those who are 40-49, while the Sea-Dweller comes out on top with buyers aged 50-59. Only the group over 60 goes against this trend, showing a stronger preference for the Patek Philippe Calatrava.
Loyalty to Rolex seems highest among younger buyers. Three of the top five models for people under 30 and those aged 30-39 are Rolex. This drops to two Rolex models in the top five for buyers aged 40-59. For buyers over 60, only one Rolex-the Sky-Dweller-makes it into the top five.
The 40-49 age group shows the most variety in taste. Their top ten purchases include nine different manufacturers, such as Breitling, Vacheron Constantin, and IWC. By comparison, buyers over 60 are drawn to more expensive options, with three Patek Philippe models in their top ten.
Interest in Omega is especially strong among Gen Z watch enthusiasts (mainly the under-30 group). Three Omega models appear in their top ten, along with four Rolex watches, two from Cartier, and, somewhat surprisingly, a Grand Seiko Heritage Collection model. This Grand Seiko is the only one to appear in any age group’s top choices.
The data confirms the wide appeal of luxury watches across generations. Chrono24 reported that more than a third of Gen Z already own a high-quality watch or plan to buy one soon. With about 540,000 watches from around 3,000 dealers and 45,000 private sellers across more than 120 countries, Chrono24 offers a unique view of global watch market trends.