The Manual Wind: Hermes slim d’Hermes Perpetual Calendar

By Ian Schwam April 29, 2015

the manual wind hermes slim dhermes perpetual calendar

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High end brands are no longer specialty houses. A brand might be known for its atelier, but that certainly does not limit its outreach. The best way to keep your loyal consumer under your umbrella is to continuously give them what they want; exclusive high end product. Hermes is one brand that is no longer known for just their Birkien. Shoes, belts, ties, and a bevy of other accessories bearing the “H” are more popular than ever. So why not a watch? Hermes has been in the watch game for some time. Mainly offering fashion watches with the occasional complicated timepiece, they have not broken into the watchmaking market just yet. With another lunging stab at making a breakthrough, Hermes introduces the slim d’Hermès Perpetual Calendar.

Made of 18k rose gold, this 39.5mm case does not get much cleaner. Not just another round gold case, the lugs of this piece are certainly unique. Elongated, truly centering this piece on your wrist, the lugs make this more of a show piece. Stylized, painted arabic numerals keep it simple on what could easily be a crowded perpetual dial. This piece is more than just design; its complicated.

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A Voucher perpetual calendar with day/night indicator lies beneath dial. A micro-rotor keeps this 42 hour power reserve engine going while on the wrist. Every last detail accounted for, even the moon is mother-of-pearl. Attached with some fine Hermes crocodile, this piece defines elegance.

When you are a high end brand like Hermes, you have the luxury world at your disposal. Their latest creation, the slim d’Hermès Perpetual Calendar, is a perfect example of that. High end finishes, high end movement, high end brand, high end timepiece. Buyer beware. This one will cost you.

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Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: Bespoke Timepieces by Vacher Private Label

the manual wind bespoke timepieces by vaucher private label

Vertical integration is a goal in any industry. Branding is a key to success, but in an industry built on detail oriented enthusiasts, recognition may prove easier.

Vaucher is a movement house. The Sandoz family acquired all the pieces to the puzzle completing the formation of this manufacturing powerhouse in 2003. Designing and manufacturing movements and parts for brands throughout the industry, they have certain recognition. Located in Fleurier, Switzerland, Vaucher shares a home and all of its prowess with Parmigiani, its branding partner. It seems the time has come for more than just watch nerds to know the Vaucher name. It will now sit upon the dial of the new Vaucher brand and collection; Vaucher Private Label.

Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind 2015 Watch of the Year: MB & F Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar

the manual wind 2015 watch of year mb f legacy machine perpetual calendar

For the 2015 Manual Wind watch of the year, I have chosen one that although not easily attainable, is extremely notable. Its not easy for boutique brands to break through to collectors. A lot come out with interesting design, but flop. It takes the right backing and the right watchmakers to create a successful boutique brand. MB&F, Maximilian Büsser & Friends, has been able to break from the pack. Their designs are as aesthetically pleasing as they are horologically pleasing. Far out designs make for interesting time displays. Their more traditional designs have amazing depth and detail. The combination of unique design, depth and detail has put MB&F on the radar of all modern collectors. Blowing the minds of all horological enthusiasts this past year is the timepiece I have chosen for the Manual Wind watch oft the year; the MB&F Legacy Machine Perprtual.

44mm in diameter, this is simply a display case for the amazing movement inside. Designed from scratch by Stephen McDonnel, this classic perpetual movement is brought alive under the domed crystal of the Legacy Machine. The movement displays hours, minutes, day, retrograde date, month, retrograde leap year and the level of the 72 hour power reserve. Elevated above it all is a 14mm balance wheel. Characteristic of the other Legacy Machines, this feature sets this piece apart from all other watches ever produced. The depth this creates within the watchcase is what helps make this piece so impressive. Cast in rose gold or platinum, this piece defines boutique with a production of only twenty-five pieces per metal.

Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: Harry Winston Avenue Dual Time Automatic

the manual wind harry winston avenue dual time automatic feature

Once an avant avant-garde brand, always an avant-garde brand. Once that original plunge into obscure design and complication is taken, free reign ensues. Harry Winston might have started off as a jewelry brand, but years ago they took that plunge. From the limited edition series of Opus watches, down to their most basic production watch, Harry Winston is certainly avant-garde. Their latest design, the Harry Winston Avenue Dual Time, takes their rectangular Avenue case shape and makes it interesting.

This vertical rectangle, in either sedna rose gold or Zalium (Harry Winston’s own ultra light allow) measures a substantial 55mmx36mm. Sandwiched between two sapphire crystals is Harry Winston’s in house calibre HW3502 movement. This movement features day, date, time, day/night indicator,
retrograde hours, and a second timezone. Above the movement lies an eccentric dial. Layered and slightly skeletonized, its a good thing Harry Winston decided to label the dial in order to read the time. The local and hometime are both labeled. The depth and finish on this dial is very impressive. For added comfort on the wrist, the crown has been placed at the 5 o’clock position as to not dig into your wrist.