The Manual Wind: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph

By Ian Schwam January 20, 2016

the manual wind audemars piguet royal oak offshore diver chronograph ap1

The SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horology) watch show in Geneva is here and so are the watches! The highly anticipated watch show kicks off the year and gives some of the top watch brands in the world the stage for their new pieces. After just one day of the show there are plenty of highlights. However, Audemars Piguet has got the pieces that resemble actual highlighters.

The Audemars Piguet Offshore Diver is a mainstay in the AP family. 42mm in diameter in stainless steel and ceramic, this piece was the simplest in the offshore family. Audemars Piguet has decided to change that for 2016. The Diver is now a chronograph and in bright colors. Added to the time, date, and inner rotating bezel is now ceramic pushers and crown to operate the two register chronograph of the in-house Caliber 3124 movement. This piece is truly different from the inside out. Blue, orange, yellow, and lime green are the colors of the boutique only series. The blue version contrasted with yellow has a matching blue rubber strap and tang buckle. The orange, yellow, and lime are contrasted with black on the dial but truly standout with their bright matching rubber straps.

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I like this move by Audemars Piguet. The sport watch should be fun to wear. Where as their previous pieces were either black, white, or blue, now AP has an offering so their loyal consumers can put down their Casio G-shocks and put on a real watch with some color. Way back at the start of the offshore line, Audemars made some primary colored versions. They never were wildly successful. Maybe the updated colorful Audemars Piguet Diver Chronograph will prove different. Price not yet released.

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Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: Bamford Watch Department Rolex Yachtmaster II Black/Blue

Bamford Watch Department Rolex Yachtmaster II Black/Blue

For as long as people have wanted to exhibit their wealth, there has a been a great debate; customized or original. The automobile market has a very large aftermarket parts market. The watch market however, still maintains ill will toward a customized watch. Until recently, very few watch houses have been able to break the taboo, but one in particular is leading the breakthrough. As high end customized Rolex go, Bamford Watch Department is the pinnacle. With multiple case finishes, custom hand painted dials, and the ability to customize your own Bamford, the traditional steel watch better watch out.

The latest offering from Bamford takes the wildly popular and largest diameter Rolex in production, the Yachtmaster 2, and turns it into a head turner. We all know the Black and Blue Rolex GMT Master is popular, but Bamford has taken the Yachtmaster 2 and turned it into the true Black/Blue. With Bamford’s military grade titanium coating contrasting with a bright blue bezel and accented dial, this piece is a stand out. This is a brazen design that bares the Rolex name, that Rolex would never have the gaul to produce. Contrast, quality, and its rarity sets this piece apart from the traditional Yachtmaster 2. Black coated watches often carry a stigma of not being resilient to wear, but Bamford’s secret formula and process put that to bed as well. Bamford offers an extremely limited production that Rolex, with its mass production, certainly does not offer.

Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: Raymond Weil Nabucco Chronograph Inspired by Gibson Guitars

the manual wind raymond weil nabucca chronograph inspired by gibson guitars nabucco

Over the last five years, there has been an epidemic of collaborations in the watch market. Brands like Hublot have taken their mainstay design and turned it every color in the rainbow. This has brought plenty of criticism amongst watch critics and consumers alike. Im pleased to report that regardless of inspiration, a nice watch is a nice watch. As an up and coming brand looking to take a rebuilding Tag Heuer into the ring, Raymond Weil has broken the limited-edition stigma and showed its deserving of a stool in that corner. Introducing the Raymond Weil Nabucco inspired by Gibson Guitars.

This 46mm steel and titanium timepiece, baring both the Raymond Weil and Gibson logos, shares identifiers of both brands. The dial was designed to incorporate Gibson DNA in with that of the Raymond Weil Nabucco; their flagship timepiece. Six strings are signified on the dial adding a classic element to an otherwise sporty chronograph. Showing some more of Raymond Weil’s more current watchmaking prowess is their grey ceramic tachometer bezel and 46 hour power reserve in-house chronograph. Paired with a black crocodile strap and capped with an exhibition back (which also bares the Gibson name), Weil and Gibson have taken this piece way beyond the current Nabucco.

Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: Ralph Lauren Automotive Chronograph

manual wind ralph lauren automotive chronograph 1

It is a common misconception that the popularity in watches is on the decline. Smart phones and watches, although far more functional and carried by all, have no shot in replacing the wristwatch. Timeless design, ease of checking the time, and most of all, status, keep the timepiece firmly in place on the wrist. With this sustained and growing popularity there is more motivation than ever to break into this market. Long established fashion brands are taking note.

One example is Ralph Lauren. The iconic designer with one of the most established brands in American history saw great opportunity as well. A few years ago he introduced a line of watches inspired by his famed car collection. His most recent release ahead of SIHH watch show 2015, The Ralph Lauren Automotive Chronograph, shows inspiration from the most famous member of that collection; the 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic coupe.